Today, I received my Raynox DCR-150 "close-up conversion lens". It has a listed diopter rating of +4.8.
I attached it to my Nikkor 105G macro lens, mounted on my Nikon D5000 (sensor size = 23.6-mm x 15.8-mm) for the following Field-of-View documentations.
For images #1 & #2, the lens was set to Manual, and the focus collar turned to 'infinity'. The FoV is 52-mm wide. Magnification is 23.6/52 = 0.45:1 (0.45x life-size).
For images #3 & #4, the lens was set to Manual, and the focus collar turned to MFD. The FoV is 12.5-mm wide. Magnification is 23.6/12.4 = 1.9:1 = (1.9x life-size).
Images #5 & #7 are Nikkor 105G alone, focused to MFD. Magnification is 1:1 (life-size).
Image #6 is Nikkor 105G + 68-mm of extension tubes, focused to MFD. Magnification is 2:1 (2x life-size).
One interesting Nikon function: Setting the lens to Auto-Focus, the camera will NOT take a photograph until the subject is in focus, allowing shutter button to be held depressed, and camera moved closer to subject until proximity triggers shutter.
1.) Nikkor 105G + DCR-150 focused to infinity on DX sensor
2.) Nikkor 105G + DCR-150 focused to infinity on DX sensor
3.) Nikkor 105G + DCR-150 focused to MFD on DX sensor
4.) Nikkor 105G + DCR-150 focused to MFD on DX sensor
5.) Nikkor 105G alone focused to MFD on DX sensor
6.) 105-mm MFD field with 68-mm tubes on DX sensor
7.) 17-mm Dime & 24-mm Quarter focused to MFD on DX sensor
Thanks. Your calculations were more precise than mine. Have you done any DOF calculations?
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Have you done any DOF calculations?
I plan to soon complete additional documentation photos, to compare DoF between DCR-150 & matching FoV with extension tubes. Any suggestions as how to proceed, will be greatly appreciated.
For DoF test I would start with a fixed rig shooting down a millimeter ruler. I would also try a block with millimeter paper scale taped to the side. Position the block just off center, .5cm, and shot down the block as well. Large numbering would help. Disclaimer, never done this before but that's where I would start.
Pick a number on the ruler centered with the lens, then place ruler on 45 degree angle facing lens on same flat focal plane, this way you will see depth in front and behind said number. Same way you would check focus for lens..
Along the lines of what I was thinking. I started playing with this yesterday. My problem was easily differentiating the incremental marks on the scale. The DOF is so thin @ MWD, so it might be easier at infinity-- or some other consistently used mark on the lens.
I am tempted with the Raynox, how do you rate it for macro work, apart from your documentation work?
Leicaflex wrote:
I am tempted with the Raynox, how do you rate it for macro work, apart from your documentation work?
I just got it 12-hours ago. I am most interested in DoF as compared to same macro lens with tubes. No opinion yet.
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
My problem was easily differentiating the incremental marks on the scale. The DOF is so thin at MWD, so it might be easier at infinity-- or some other consistently used mark on the lens.
For a tripod guy this would work great. I have visited a few sites dedicated to the DCR-250 and noticed most of the photos are shot at the infinity end of the macro lens. As in all macro, the closer you are the shallower the DoF, but you all ready know that. I use at the closes working distance for the magnification, but also got the stacking software to help with the DoF. Either you Nail the focus or miss all together.. But when you nail the focus, it's Sharp..
fstop22 wrote:
Either you Nail the focus or miss all together.. But when you nail the focus, it's Sharp..
That's the holy grail of macro shooters, nailing the focus...Gets harder to do as we get older...
The working distance comparisons will also be interesting as the Raynox ( as all diopter lenses) shorten the effective focal length of the lens it is used on.
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