Nightski

I just watched a youtube tutorial by James Beltz.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UlbkvqiID0

He says there are 7 variables in lighting when you use off camera flash.
1. Shutter Speed
2. Aperture
3. ISO
4. Distance
5. Diffusion
6.Zoom
7.Power

Here's my question. With 7 variables instead of only 3 to work with, how do you begin to decide which combination of variables to use? Do you start with Aperture and go from there? I suppose sometimes you don't have a choice in distance. Is there a table of variables somewhere? A little cheat sheet for the beginner to use. Geez...I just got the 3 variables down, and now this!

Also, do you always have your camera on the WB setting of flash when using your off camera flash?

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I start with aperture. How much deprh of field do I want in the photo? Sometimes the shutter doesn't enter into the equasion: as in when I'm shooting in the studio. Otherwise, the shutter determines. Bow much ambient light plays into the exposure.

As far as white balance goes, I try to balance the flashed to the ambient light. Yesterday I was shooting under fluorescent light, so I put some light green filters on my flashes and did a custom white balance. That way when I open the files in Adobe Camera Raw, they are very close to what I want.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

(I can spell, just not very adept with an iPhone)

Nightski

How did I know you'd be first on the scene with this question GN? Thanks for your reply. I feel pretty good now, because I did have it in my head before you answered that it might be the aperture that I should start with. So, at least I'm making some good guesses now. Thanks so much :thumbup:

haroldross Loc: Walthill, Nebraska

I usually start with what aperture I want to get the desired depth of field, then I choose the shutter speed and ISO.

I usually use two white shoot through umbrellas and bounce my flash off a reflected unless there is a nice surface to bounce the flash off of. I manually adjust the flash output and distance of the umbrellas for the desired effect. I have done this enough times that it usually take just a few shots to get things right. At the alumni banquet I did two weeks ago, it took about five minutes to get the right exposure set.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

It was a really good question.

This is how I do it.
Other scenarios may need a different approach, but I bet most use aperture as the major consideration as shutter setting does not directly affect the flash exposure.


I've been shooting in high-speed sync lately, making it possible to shoot outside at wide apertures and still control the ambient with the shutter.
The ISO capabilities of cameras these days really helps get the shots I need without noise becoming a consideration.

Nightski

This Beltz fellow went over the high speed sync in his tutorial. I have a rough understanding of that now. (very rough) I have the Canon 550EX. Does that have high speed sync capability?

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I think the flash is capable but your Canon camera model may be a factor.
I'm a Nikon guy, so can't answer your question.

Nightski

Yep, I'm working on getting a new camera :thumbup:

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

The 550 is HSS capable. What camera body do you have now?

Setting the aperture first will help define your vision of your photo. the advice you are getting here is great.

Remember, when using HSS, you are at a lower brightness output in a pulse mode. That will still drain your batteries pretty fast. There are battery packs that hold 6 or 8 additional AA batteries that will plug into your speedlite and provide a more constant power supply with minimal downtime between flashes.

Solomon Loc: Australia

remember the DISTANCE to you subject from the flash is what the Aperture is worked out on NOT your distance from the camera to the subject.. You can with a cord or wireless have your flash on manual about 5 feet away (off to the side at say 45 degrees) use the aperture for 5 feet Say f11 but you could be for instance 15 foot away and the amount of light hitting the subject If you aim it right. will be correct. try it..... you will like this trick. Don't forget you need to adjust your exposure on the camera to be correct at f11 at whatever speed it works out.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

After a while, you won't think this is so complicated. The key, like anything is repetition.

Do it over and over. Set up a shot and take a shot, move things around and do it again....over and over.

Here's the deal...it's pretty simple really...

1. Shutter Speed
(keep in on your sync speed unless you have some reason to change it such as dragging it to get ambient light more pronounced in the mix)

2. Aperture
(How much depth of field do you want)

3. ISO
(Same as shutter speed; keep it low unless you have some reason to change it.)

4. Distance
(Distance of flash/modifier to subject = apparent size = how harsh shadows are. i.e. bigger and closer = smooth shadow transitions; smaller and farther away = harsher...think sunset shadows)


5. Diffusion
(No idea what this is)


6.Zoom
(If this is in reference to the flash zoom, same as above, zoom to 105 = small, zoom to 24mm = spread out. Keep this on 50mm unless you have a reason to change it but don't stress on it.)


7.Power
(Not a big deal...you have to get a proper exposure right? Start with 1/4 power and take a shot. Over exposed? turn down, underexposed? turn up.


Even though it looks like a long list, the options really are pretty cut and dried. It's really not much different than taking a shot without flash...you will ask the same questions of yourself when taking a natural light shot...right?


Is the light harsh? Do I need to move the subject? Do I need to diffuse it? Do I need to move him/her closer to the light? Is the depth of field deep enough to do what I want it to?

See? The same questions apply when using flash or ambient light.

See this post from this morning...this literally took one shot.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-136175-1.html

I metered it so I knew what to set the f/stop on, I knew everything before I took the shot. Even if you were to "chimp" this in, it wouldn't take more than a half dozen shots at most.


Keep practicing...you'll get it.

craggycrossers Loc: Robin Hood Country, UK

Good response, Bob. I watched Nightski's video - your points say it quite adequately !

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

aperture controls ambient light=shutter speed controls flash

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

A new camera?...oh this should be interesting.....LOL