tonyt Loc: North west England, UK

Had similar problems. Suggestion - Use Camera on Manual - 1/180 sec f5.6. ISO 800 or ISO 1600. Set flash on manual, try full power or half power. Use RAW. Should get something decent. Good luck.

Mudshark Loc: Illinois

A long time ago in a place far, far away...young photojournalist would take the 4X5 white cards that came in boxes of 4X5 sheet film and place them behind and above their strobes to fill in the "raccoon eyes." When I worked at the Ft. Lauderdale News and Sun Sentinel...we used Windy's chili spoons, concave cup facing subject, the big white ones, rubber banded to the back of vivatar 283 strobes for extra fill. At some point, years ago...I started cutting up old white foam core boards making the below type cards to either rubber band to the strobe or just hand hold if I was doing off camera work. If you go off camera with this rig and are creative where you do the bounce you can achieve some amazing results.
The key is the same one used in pistol shooting...you have to shoot a lot of photos but eventually you can hit the target with great regularity...practice, practice, practice...
I've got a drawer with 6 or 8 of these things in it...I've wasted money on Gary Fong, etc. I like my simple home made ones better and they use fill cards that were destined for the trash.
I urge Hogs to play with this technique...the results can be amazing and it's KISS simple...
Tip...tilt the flash down toward your subject a tiny bit to allow some raw flash...especially in DARK ROOMS...

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

What you are demonstrating here is a "bounce card" Typically about 80-85% of the light is directed upwards, while 15-20% is directed forward to fill in eye sockets, etc. This system is not effective if in a dark room with high ceilings like the OP was experiencing, as 80-85% of the light just does not come back to the subject.

The bounce card is very effective under ideal conditions, and far more effective than just plain ceiling bounce, as long as you do not wish to shoot in portrait mode which then causes the majority of light to be sent to the side.

Mudshark Loc: Illinois

I beg to differ...used it many times. You need to adjust exposure to get the most from you strobe. And you need a kick-ass strobe... You need to allow a bit more raw light to spill onto subject. If it is indeed not adequate then go to a plastic, store bought cap that fits over your strobe...steffin or whatever that company is. Just use it direct and high over your lens axis.
Having said that..in a truly dark hole...black ceiling, etc. if you use a large fill card as described and spill light you can do amazing stuff. Done it for many years in often bad conditions.
Also pull you shutter...I have often shot a 30th...the strobe will stop subject motion unless they are doing the frog..or the bump or some alien monster mash dance in the nude...

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

There are some suggestions that you should be in manual flash mode. If you are always the same distance flash to subject, that is a good way to illuminate the subject.

However, if the flash distance to your subject varies from shot to shot (like during an event), TTL is going to provide a more consistent exposure.

If the light is still too dim or too bright with TTL, simply dial in the appropriate flash compensation in your camera, that is why camera manufacturers make that control.

Just meter for the background ambient light you want and let TTL and flash compensation take care of the subjects at your sync speed.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

How about 1/8th sec at f/4?

Mudshark Loc: Illinois

Absolutely!!!

Hal81 Loc: Bucks County, Pa.

Star I know what you mean. Back in my film days I always used bounce flash in the brides house. But I learned the hard way when I bounce off a pink ceiling. The brides white dress came out pink. Always checked after that on the color of the ceiling. When I had to flash stright on I used a defuser no the flash head to cut down on the harsh light. I always wondered why people would paint their rooms like that. Ive seen blue walls with blue ceilings and green walls with green ceilings. I rember one place that had black walls in the living room.At least the Ceilings were white. When doing weddings for 39 years you see almost anything. I used to tell my wife I could write a book. And the wall color would be but a very small part of it.

bunuweld Loc: Arizona

I won't add comments to the PPing because it is clear the there was enough info in the images to bring them to very viable brighter image. My only comment is that I find the images moving because they appear to portray women
who may have undergone chemotherapy facing their situation with great courage.

Wall-E Loc: Phoenix, AZ

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

kitcar Loc: Liverpool.Merseyside. UK

Re' "CaptainC's" - nuke them - I agree. I have taken pic's of a prize presentations in a venue that has timber panelled walls & orange ceiling & with my Metz 36 AF on a extending bar & getting closer, instead of zooming, I get an acceptable image which can be impoved with PP. In these conditions I find that diffusers & bouncing reduces your light source & as CaptainC states they are not art but a recording of an occasion. At least you get a picture of the occasion & that's important to the recipitant. More often than not, you are in a situation where you have to do the best you can. No body has complained so far. Kitcar

DebAnn Loc: Toronto

It is essential to check out the venue a few days before an event so you can figure out how to deal with the lighting. I was faced with really inadequate lighting in a former cinema - absolutely nothing to bounce light off. I borrowed studio lights from a photographer friend for the formal group shots (had to learn how it works in a hurry) and I used off camera flashes with diffusers over them for the walk-about shots. Managed to get enough shots for the wedding book.

rodart Loc: Comanche, TX

The problem I had with the Gary Fong was the consumption of light. Also, It broke trying to attach it to my sb910. I'm using Lumiquest products and love them. They all fold and pack very well! They are much cheaper and work well for me!

http://www.lumiquest.com/

I do like the Gary Fong snoot though!!!

Robert

Mashubi1 Loc: Salem, Oregon

Pentax user ...YES..!!!! I have both the Pentax 360 & the 540 Flash.....don't shy away from the 360 it is a great flash just not as powerful as the 540. I use a diffuser on both of them when I shoot in a dark room or outside at night to soften the shot....

What Pentax model are you shooting Starr????

anotherview Loc: California

If you pose people, then you could set up a white sheet to one side draped in place by a portable background stand. You could bounce the flash lighting off it.

So many solutions exist for this condition.