mdorn Loc: Portland, OR

Just read an interesting article about this. According to the tests that were performed, if you have a "rock solid" tripod, there is absolutely no need for mirror lockup.

As a landscape photographer I've often wondered about this as well... How do some of you feel about it? Do you notice a difference? -Mark

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I feel if they've done nothing wrong, they shouldn't be locked up.
Innocent until proven guilty.


Seriously though, I've wondered too. I can feel the camera when it fires. It has to be vibrating or moving somehow.
Mirror lock-up eliminates one source. With my D800 that's fairly sizable (though not as big as my Mamiya RB 67)

RaydancePhoto

It must be a Conspiracy, my mirror is always locked up, or well... locked in position. Translucent mirrors have no Conspiracy, just well organized.

finsntwisters Loc: Fly over country(Neb)

I've noticed that it depends on the situation for me. I have a solid tripod and a Nikon D5100. If i am using a (physically) small lens, it does not seem to be an issue, however, with my 55-300 or bigger on the camera it makes a big difference. I virtually can not shoot with a physically larger lens on my tripod without going to live view to lock up the mirror. It seems as the mirror actuation on my 5100 is nothing short of violent. I wonder if this a D5100 thing, or if it just my particular camera....

silver Loc: Santa Monica Ca.

All you have to do is use live view and the mirror is already up.

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

I think the key here is a 'rock solid' tripod.

My manual says:

Mirror Lockup
Although using the self-timer or Remote Switch can prevent camera shake, using mirror lockup to prevent camera vibration (mirror shock) can also help when you use a super telephoto lens or shoot close ups.

mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

Doesn't seem logical. The mirror going up creates some vibration. Even when mounted on a solid tripod that vibration is not necessarily absorbed. For long exposures I always use mirror lockup, a remote, and a delay to allow the camera to stabilize after the mirror is raised.

James R. Kyle Loc: Saint Louis, Missouri (A Suburb of Ferguson)

As I want the Best Print I can from ANY image file (RAW) I take the time, workmanship and the craftsmanship, as I did in the "Film Era" of photography...

I make use of "LIVE-VIEW" (this is like Mirror-Lock-Up) on the Canon 5D MarkII and 60D.... As in "Low-Light" the auto-focus gives me LESS then Best focus in these Low Light conditions with a variety of lenses. (i.e.= the Canon 24-105mm and the Canon 70-200mm... AND ALWAYS ON a TRIPOD - I.S. is OFF.

I take the "Live-View" and use it as I would a "View Camera" - (i.e.= Ansco 8X10 and or a Crown Graphic 4X5)....

Using this procedure - I::

First use auto-focus to set the image - to get the focus in the "ballpark"...

Second, I turn on the Live-View and increase the magnification to 10X. (And as the "Live-View" is engaged The auto-focus is suspended for the time the "Live-View" is on.)

Third, I often use a "loop" to even get MORE magnification on the LCD ..

Fourth, I must re-focus to get the image the sharpest that the lens will deliver to the sensor..

Fifth, I set the f-stop to what I wish to achieve in the final Print. ((If I am wishing to use H.D.R. = I use a "Spot-Meter" and meter the dark area I wish to have to values show. - I meter the Mid-areas to set on, perhaps, "zone 5" and perhaps adjust a little after that - I meter the brights of a given area that I wish to have the valuse show. I place those readings on the "spread" of where the 3 photos will be captured, sometimes I make a second set of 3 but "Shift" either down or up-scale to what I wish to achieve in the Final Print.))

Sixth, As I Use Aperture Priority, I am not concerned about the shutter speed (that is UNLESS I am in Total manual mode.) and finally I open the shutter and capture the Image in RAW.

This is much easier to show than to write and have someone comprehend ....

AND .. As Always -- This is the way of my thinking of what I do... Others might have another way, and that is good - Whatever works for the Photographer behind the camera.

James R. Kyle 1-2-2013 STL,MO

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

Thank you for taking the time to write this down.

HEART Loc: God's Country - COLORADO

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

According to a video I watched on CreativeLive, 1/8 sec is the critical shutter speed for vibration. Faster speeds are obviously OK, and at slower speeds, it somehow evens out. That might not make too much sense, but he showed close-ups of shots taken with and w/o mirror lockup, and with lockup was more clear - less shake. So, I think for lower shutter speeds, MUP is probably a good idea.

photoninja1 Loc: Tampa Florida

JamesR' procedure is an excellent one. I use it for macro photography. I'nve not used it for landscape or long distance telephoto (although I did use it for a moon shot}, but it would work equally well there.

rebride

No mirror lock up. Where is the fun in that?

juicesqueezer Loc: Okeechobee, Florida

James R; Thanks for taking the time to explain your method!

Guy Johnstone Loc: Ocean Shores WA

It's definitely a conspiracy. You can't see a thing that Mirror goes up and I think the camera manufacturers have a little man picking your pockets when the lights are out. But in the interest of objectivity I believe I will get my tripod and loop and conduct a study. Does anyone know where the lockup lever is on my Leica M8? Okay I know it's silly but I think the point is it depends on the camera you're using. A good example of a camera that requires their lockup would be a Pentax 67. The model What out mirror lockup is far less desirable and there's a pretty good reason for that. The mirror in That cameras only slightly smaller than that on a Kenworth.