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How do I photograph people with dark skin color?
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Jul 1, 2014 21:12:12   #
edstubbs Loc: East Coast; 1st state, Delaware
 
Really, really good information on this subject. &#128518;

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Jul 1, 2014 21:49:15   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
The reason being the faster SS would darken the background, and the fill flash lighting would lighten up the main subject.

This Web-site discusses how to shot black people:

http://ethiopia.limbo13.com/index.php/photographing_people_with_dark_skin_i/

See this Web-site for more on flash lighting:

http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

Just a matter of technique.

Good luck.
==========

speters wrote:
You really needed to shoot this at a much faster shutter speed and then using some fill to get the right exposure on the people.

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Jul 1, 2014 22:07:12   #
boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
 
nekon wrote:
You need minus compensation for dark tones-not plus!

Remember the zone system?

Fed Archer/Ansel Adams developed the “Zone System”
To control exposure and contrast for black and white film photography
And To pre-visualize finished image after post processing in the darkroom,

There are11 zones black to white-each zone represent 1 EV (exposure value) stop:

0 Total black

I Almost black-no detail

II Dark grey-black -very dark detail in shadows

III Very dark grey-shadow detail-dark animal fur

IV Medium dark grey-dark green foliage, shadow side of Caucasian face
Dark stone-landscape shadow-dark skin-details plainly visible

V Medium grey-green grass-grey stone-dry tarmac-excellent detail

VI Rich mid-tone grey-Caucasian skin in sunlight-light stone and sand

VII Bright light grey-white with texture-silver hair

VIII Almost white-Delicate texture-no detail-reflected highlights on Caucasian skin

IX Nearly pure white

X Absolute white


Each zone is a tone between black and white

Each zone is either half or twice the exposure of it’s neighbour, depending on whether you are going up or down, For example Zone III is 2 stops darker than zone V, and zone VII is 2 stops lighter than zone V-As you move your exposure one stop (ev) say, from f 8 to f 11,or from 1/60sec to 1/125sec, you will have moved the exposure one zone

Although developed for black and white film, it can still be useful for digital imaging, and once you get used to using it, your resulting images will be superior to anything you have done before..

It can be difficult to understand that when working in color, that black and white and tones of grey can apply. Your camera’s meter sees in black, white and tones of grey in between.

So to help you understand:

Your camera’s built-in meter will average everything it sees as mid-grey (18% or 13%-whichever you believe to be correct) > ZONE V!

To prove that this is so, try this experiment:

Get a piece of white paper and a piece of black paper ( A4 sheets) take separate photo of each sheet, filling the frame, in the same lighting conditions, using the camera’s meter - Surprise, Surprise! They both came out mid-grey. This is because the camera’s meter averages out the scene, giving an average exposure for the scene at ZONE V.

The camera’s light meter will measure and average everything it’s pointed at

So it becomes necessary to switch to spot metering-a spot meter will measure only a very small angle (1-2 Degrees)-spot metering will let the camera know the most important part of the scene in front of it.

Ok. Let’s assume you have a Caucasian model against a relatively dark background-So you assess the scene before you, and decide that the model’s face is the most important part of the scene.

Usually Caucasian skin registers at Zone VI or Zone VII, (Even though we are looking at a color scene, the camera only sees light and dark.) When we spot meter for model’s face, this will register on camera as Zone V

We have decided to rate the model’s skin at Zone VII, and this means we must open up 2 EV stops to achieve this:

If we are in manual shooting mode, this will require us to either a) Decrease the shutter speed from, say 1/250th sec to 1/60th sec, or b) 0pen up aperture from, say F8 to F4.

If you are in auto mode/scene exposure mode, set exposure compensation to +2

Always do a final check using your histogram: In some situations, by placing the subject at a certain zone, could result in other areas of the image being under or over exposed.
You need minus compensation for dark tones-not plu... (show quote)


It's the old black cat in the coal bin problem. Metering off an 18% neutral grey card can help.

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Jul 1, 2014 22:33:08   #
Racmanaz Loc: Sunny Tucson!
 
This is where mirrorless cameras with EVF's shine!

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Jul 1, 2014 23:39:25   #
PVR8 Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
It seems that this shot needed some fill flash light and it would have been much better.
BillA77V wrote:
Here is one... I realize that the bright backdrop doesn't help, but I am even having trouble pulling out the detail in post.

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Jul 2, 2014 00:00:25   #
CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver
 
Here is something file away: when it comes to real portraits, not this situation where you are forced into 100 people in a short time, think about this: for light/caucasian skin, light illuminates, the shadows define. For dark skin it is the opposite - it is the highlights that define the face.

This really applies more to studio work where we can control the lighting, but to the extent it is controllable with natural light, we should.

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Jul 2, 2014 00:44:06   #
Photocraig
 
Excellent answer Necon. Also, in a group shot, be sure to ahve the darkest complected faces closes to the light. Window, flash, overhead lighting and use diffused fill flash by putting a white handkerchief (tissues work) 1 or 2 folds over the pop up or on camera flash. By aligning the group according to incident light, you will also fairly expose the lighter skinned subjects better. It is a real balancing act. But it IS photography vs snapshots. That's why we got those dials and buttons.

As Necon says, you meter is trying to expose a Zone II tone face as if it were a Zone VI, Turning it into looking like a tuxedo jacket. That face needs to be exposed 1+, maybe 2 stops wider than you meter, by using exposure compensation. Use your screen to check and re-expose. And your friends will appreciate your concern and consideration. After a number of years, being the featureless spots in group photos sets very old.

SO, I'm told.

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Jul 2, 2014 00:56:04   #
CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!
 
BillA77V wrote:
Recently I photographed 100 Forner classmates at a reunion. I am not happy with the results of some of the pictures of my black friends If there are some black photographers on this forum, I would really like to hear from them.
How do I take a good picture of a black person? I unfortunately did not have the luxury of changing the backdrop, and I did use a flash on everyone. I did some post processing, but that didn't help much.
We are doing this again in a few years and I want to be ready.
Recently I photographed 100 Forner classmates at a... (show quote)


Hello Bill. I am assuming from your screen name that you photographed the pictures in question using a Sony A77. If this is the case, let me assure you that your camera is VERY capable of taking quality images of dark complexioned people in either mixed company or in poor lighting.

I recently photographed a wedding where the bride and groom were of different races; he was white and she black. I also used a pair of flashguns; the Sony HVL-F58AM as my primary, and a Sony HVL-F36AM as the off-camera flash. I did not use diffusers.

And while MOST of the mixed company shots turned out perfectly out-of-camera, some of them DID require post processing to "clean them up".

Bill, what you propose CAN be done and done well. It takes practice and the right equipment.

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Jul 2, 2014 02:58:37   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
BillA77V wrote:
Recently I photographed 100 Forner classmates at a reunion. I am not happy with the results of some of the pictures of my black friends If there are some black photographers on this forum, I would really like to hear from them.
How do I take a good picture of a black person? I unfortunately did not have the luxury of changing the backdrop, and I did use a flash on everyone. I did some post processing, but that didn't help much.
We are doing this again in a few years and I want to be ready.
Recently I photographed 100 Forner classmates at a... (show quote)


The light that falls on people be they white or black is no different...a good exposure is just that, a good exposure.

But lighting lighter skinned people vs darker skinned people is a bit different in technique.

Here is a video that might help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-fCb3MBs8s

And PS; the Captn summarized it perfectly above... for light/caucasian skin, light illuminates, the shadows define. For dark skin it is the opposite - it is the highlights that define the face.

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Jul 2, 2014 06:40:04   #
Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio
 
Here's a shot from work a few weeks ago. You will definitely need a good flash.


(Download)

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Jul 2, 2014 10:04:58   #
romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI
 
PVR8 wrote:
It seems that this shot needed some fill flash light and it would have been much better.


To do 150 couples in 30 minutes he need a pro flash unit(off camera) with a battery pack.

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