FredB wrote:
Gabe, your round, screw-on filter is probably a Polarizing filter, and depending on your type of camera, it may not be very useful. 55mm lens threads are primarily found on 'older', film era lenses. Not to say that you have a film camera, but what I am saying is there is a better than average chance that your polarizing lens is a LINEAR polarizer (made for film cameras). If so, it will not work well on a digital camera. If it does not have a rotating part in front, that spins around the part with the threads on it, then you have a linear polarizer.
Linear = film
Circular = digital
Now, that said, a polarizing filter is used to cut glare off of non-metallic surfaces. Think sunglasses for your lens. They make blue skies bluer. They pump up contrast. Many outdoor shots can benefit from a polarizer. GOOGLE will tell you much more about polarizers.
Gabe, your round, screw-on filter is probably a Po... (
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Linear or circular-both work on digital cameras-it used to be a popular belief than linear polarisers affected auto focus, but has been proven to be untrue=. Polarizers are grey in colour, and you need to
sacrifice two stops in exposure to use one. The front part of the filter can rotate to adjust the
amount of polarization. The proper, intended use for these filters, is to cut glare and reduce
reflections from all materials except shiny metal objects. A polarizer will help you to see through
the glare of a river or a lakes surface. Wildlife and nature photographers use polarizers sparingly,
to cut the skys reflection on animal fur and feathers, and the land itself. To set a polarizer for
such images, you point it at something earthy-brown in colour-this can be a tree bark, dirt, etc.,
then the front lens of the filter is rotated to give the brown dirt a dark chocolate-y colour-then it is
ready to use for your nature, landscape and wildlife images. Polarizers can also deepen blue
skies, making white clouds stand out, but realise that over-use can accentuate noise in blue
skies. To cut glare the camera needs to be at 30 degrees to the water surface, or shop window to
work 100%.To use for darkening the blue in skies, the camera needs to be around 90 degrees to
the sun to have any visible effect, you just turn the front element to the shade you desire