Sharpening techniques in Photoshop
Nov 21, 2011 09:24:46 #
Let me describe how I sharpen in Photoshop and let the good times roll.
I sharpen as the last step before saving. I work with and save my files as .tif 16 bit images. I use RGB color. Normally I shoot raw files and do preliminary work in raw and then open the file. My camera is a Nikon D300.
After change to 16 bit, I open levels and adjust. Next I adjust the contrast. Next is hue and saturation. Next I see if any shadows need to opened or highlights toned down. Then I sharpen.
I use unsharp mask. The amount I have set to 172 the radius to 1.0 and threshold to 0.
After sharpening, I choose edit, fade unsharp mask. In the mode dialog box, I scroll all the way down to luminosity, choose luminosity and leave the opacity at 100%.
I sure would like to hear the technique of others. Images are before and after.
I sharpen as the last step before saving. I work with and save my files as .tif 16 bit images. I use RGB color. Normally I shoot raw files and do preliminary work in raw and then open the file. My camera is a Nikon D300.
After change to 16 bit, I open levels and adjust. Next I adjust the contrast. Next is hue and saturation. Next I see if any shadows need to opened or highlights toned down. Then I sharpen.
I use unsharp mask. The amount I have set to 172 the radius to 1.0 and threshold to 0.
After sharpening, I choose edit, fade unsharp mask. In the mode dialog box, I scroll all the way down to luminosity, choose luminosity and leave the opacity at 100%.
I sure would like to hear the technique of others. Images are before and after.
Nov 21, 2011 09:33:17 #
I actually think the texture and color stands out better in the first photo. Is that your before or your after? Do you use curves? I like to check the histogram and adjust using curves sometimes.
Nov 21, 2011 09:42:54 #
Mary P wrote:
I actually think the texture and color stands out better in the first photo. Is that your before or your after? Do you use curves? I like to check the histogram and adjust using curves sometimes.
The top one is the after- my bad.
I do use curves sometimes, often using a particular color channel if the image needs more adjustment. I always set the black point at the darkest area of the image also.
Keep in mind that my particular philosophy is not necessarily to create an accurate portrayal of a scene or object, but rather to create an image that is pleasing to me.
Nov 21, 2011 09:49:38 #
greymule wrote:
quote=Mary P I actually think the texture and col... (show quote)
I think we all do that. And sometimes the camera doesn't see as well as we do and the photos don't show the beauty we are trying to capture, so they do need adjusting.
Thanks for sharing your steps with me. It's helpful!
Nov 21, 2011 09:52:18 #
Before you thank me, please wait for c&c from others. so we all can learn the best techniques.
Nov 21, 2011 10:32:55 #
I really like the example photograph you used here. I like the diagonals. Good pp workflow. The order is right and unsharp mask setting is ideal for most landscapes and street. I always refer to scott kelby settings for portrait, since i dont shoot many. I cant remember his recommended settings, but know i like them. Maybe someone with a copy can include that here for those without his book. I will post it when i get home if people are interested, and hasnt been posted already.
Nov 21, 2011 10:35:31 #
Nov 22, 2011 06:17:02 #
jdtx
Loc: SA, Tx.
I do a lot of sharpening in camera raw, you can isolate with the brush tool and sharpen specific areas a specific amount, and adjust the noise if needed also..by a lot of sharpening I mean a lot of the sharpening I do not necessarily a lot of sharpening per pic
Nov 22, 2011 06:59:57 #
Your method is very similar to what I do for landscape, up to the point of sharpening. I recently switched from unsharp mask to high pass filter. I've done several images, sharpening both ways, and find high pass superior. There are several variations of how to use high pass. here is the method I use:
Copy the layer, go to filter>other>high pass, set the radius to between 3 and 7 to get good edges without halos. Better to overshoot at this point. Next i set the blending mode to vivid light, soft , overlay etc, whatever looks best. Finally I fine tune the sharpness with the opacity, flatten and save as a TIFF.
Copy the layer, go to filter>other>high pass, set the radius to between 3 and 7 to get good edges without halos. Better to overshoot at this point. Next i set the blending mode to vivid light, soft , overlay etc, whatever looks best. Finally I fine tune the sharpness with the opacity, flatten and save as a TIFF.
Nov 22, 2011 07:19:15 #
greymule wrote:
Before you thank me, please wait for c&c from others. so we all can learn the best techniques.
I am a long time student of photoshop. I have all of scott Kelbeys book and i enjoy his workshops. But i have pretty much settled in processing my NEF(nikon electronic files) raw files in Capture NX2, a software provided by Nikon for Nikon shooters. From what i have read, Capture NX2 was produced by Nik Software, Inc. and worked with the Nikon engineers to produce this wonderful software. i specially like the selective tools which makes it easier to correct selective areas in a photo that needs correcting without affecting the photo globally without using layers. Do you mind if I apply a selective tool to brighten the trees and apply some tonal contrast globally to your photo?
Nov 22, 2011 07:24:48 #
Adirondack Hiker wrote:
Your method is very similar to what I do for lands... (show quote)
I also like to use the High Pass filter. but with a different twist.
1. duplicate the layer (HotKey=CTRL J)
2. Then from the top tool bar choose: Image>Adjustments>desaturate. I do this because I just want to be dealing with the luminosity levels.
3. Next from the top tool bar: Filter>Other>High Pass
4. Here if I am just interested in sharpening the smaller details I use low numbers or large numbers for larger details
5. I then change the blend mode of the layer to," Overlay, or "softlight".
6. At this point if it's too strong you can always lower the Opacity level to taste. You could also 1. Put a layer mask on this layer. 2. Make sure your foreground color is set to Black 3. Grab the brush tool from your tools bar and 3. Paint out the areas you don't want sharpened. If you want to gradually paint out the sharpness, then at the top of your tool bar, lower the Opacity level. This way each time you paint over an area it will decrease the sharpness. You have greater control using this method. I hope this helps and that I haven't confused anyone.
Nov 22, 2011 07:52:27 #
Nov 22, 2011 08:05:46 #
Jandjeby14 wrote:
Why do you use fade and what does it do? What does luminosity do? John
1. When I am using the brush tool and painting, dodging, burning etc, I use the Opacity setting to control how much I am painting, removing etc. I am using a Wacom tablet and this gives me much greater control. My understanding of the luminosity is that it shows you the highlights and the shadows,lights and darks contrast etc. When I use this technique with the high pass filter I am only interesting the the details not the color. Sharpening deals with the contrasts of lights and darks.
Anybody else here that is more educated on this topic please feel free to chime in.
Nov 22, 2011 08:43:52 #
I was just addressing the problem of sharpening for portraits, would be most interested in the settings you mention.
Nov 22, 2011 09:11:33 #
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