francesca3 Loc: Sausalito, CA

I am shooting my first wedding next week, although I have assisted before. I plan to rent an extra camera body, just in case, and it will come in handy because I can use it to hold another lens.

My question is, what lens should I use for the formal wedding party portraits?

Here’s what I own:
(1) Nikon 18-55mm, f3.5 -5.6 GVR
(2) Nikon 70-200 AF-S ED 2.8GII
(3) Nikon 55-200 f4-5.6

Should I rent a wide-angle lens, and if so, which one?

Rhino

O, and if you can rent one, the 135 f/2 DC would be nice to have along. Brilliant portrait lens for nikon.

francesca3 Loc: Sausalito, CA

Thanks, Rhino.

Rhino

O, and if you can rent one, the 135 f/2 DC would be nice to have along. Brilliant portrait lens for nikon. The 70-200 will perform perfectly. I am not a wedding photographer, and aviod them like the plauge, but i love these lenses for low light and portraits. A 50mm 1.4 would be a perfect lens to have with you as well. Good luck with all that.

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

I do plenty of weddings and enjoy doing them. Aside from being a real money maker, they keep you on your photographic toes. You didn't mention what lighting you are using. Although I use speedlites for many photos, when it comes to formals I continue to use a strobe, with diffused umbrellas (metered of course). I think the lighting is so much better. Anyway, my particular workhorse for formals is a 24-70mm f2.8. Goes wide enough for large groups and tight enough for couples. Keeping in mind, that once you meter your light, you can move your camera if needed. In your case I think #1 (stay away from 18mm or you'll get a distorted look on your people) or #3 will work, depending on how big the wedding party is and your lighting. It's not the end of the world if you have to change lenses to fit a huge wedding party in the picture, just be quick about it. Good luck. And by the way, good call on renting a second body. Spares when doing a wedding are a must.

francesca3 Loc: Sausalito, CA

I have an SB-900 and will use a diffuser. Also just bought a battery pack for it, because it never gives me enough flashes w/o waiting, and that won't work. Just hope I can learn how to use it in time.

As for metering, I am ashamed to admit that I don't know how to do that. At the class I took, when that lesson was being taught, I was used as the model because I had on light clothes, and I just never understood it. It is a huge handicap, and maybe I will "get it" in the next several days!

The 18mm advice is appreciated. Am using friends to practice on which is nice 4 them 'cause of course they get the photos that turn out well.

I am so nervous about this I almost wish I hadn't agreed to do it, but I am rather good at this. Just wish I had more experience.

I need to find out about metering, pronto.

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

Excellent purchase on the battery pack. That way your flash will recycle in plenty of time. I can't live without mine anymore. Since you can practice, put your flash in TTL, and your camera in manual. Try different f stop ranges, let your flash worry about exposure. If they're walking down the isle, put your drive mode in A1 servo (or the Nikon equivilant) and make sure your shutter speed is at least an 80th or better. Practice with your friends ahead of time will tell you what your limitations are, so you are not guessing on the day of the wedding. Since you are in a house, I would be bouncing the flash all over the place.Good luck.

francesca3 Loc: Sausalito, CA

RE: Leaving it in manual mode...that is where I NEED to know about metering, isn't it? I thought that with posed group photos I would use f11, aperture mode, and with moving target(s) I would shift to Shutter speed mode at like 100?

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

f11 for groups is ok, I usually do mine at f8 or above, depends on the group size. You want them all tack sharp. Test it out with your light. Use something and put it where you will place your people. Take a test, move it, take another test. When I meter, I always move to where I will place my subjects and take test shots. (I'm usually there about an hour ahead of time to get setup and ready). 100th will do fine. Place your camera in manual, flash in ttl, shutter at 100th, and f5.6 or there abouts when they are walking down the isle. Figure out by testing where you need to stand (or about how far away they are from you when you take the shot). You'll do great.

Priest Loc: Indiana

I have averaged about 150 weddings most years before I retired and I can offer you this in general: two of everything+duct tape-you can't run to the camera store during a wedding; 35mm at f/8 will cover almost every wedding party with plenty of depth of field [you can even do this in the dark at the reception pictures--I am speaking here -with flash set-of course at both venues; 50mm should handle full length bride and/or couple + long train;135mm is correct for portraits. Two strobes, please. You will feel safer. I do not want to hog others time to give you advice. the last thing I would say is be polite, but firm your shots come first-all eyes on you and your directions not aunt Mary or uncle Bob and you do not want 30 flashing cameras wrecking your work. Good Luck. Have fun. Peace. Priest.

francesca3 Loc: Sausalito, CA

You are VERY kind to offer all this advice, thx.
WHen you say, "meter" and take test shots, you lost me. Metering has to do with the light, right?, so what would I do if the test shot looks over or under exposed? This is where I need to do the intense cramming for understanding and being facile in applying it all.

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

Priest offers good advice. Best of luck, and let's see a few when you get a chance.

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

If you do not have a hand held meter, which is what is sounds like, use your in camera metering system. Here is the great part. Set your camera settings, push the shutter halfway down, look into the viewfinder. You should see a scale with a little arrow or marker somewhere on the scale that goes from -2 to +2 on the other end. Adjust either your shutter speed or your aperture and take a test. Does it look overexposed, move back, increase shutter speed or aperture until it looks good. Is it underexposed, adjust the other way. It's a simple but effective fix.

francesca3 Loc: Sausalito, CA

[quote=Priest]I have averaged about 150 weddings most years before I retired and I can offer you this in general: two of everything+duct tape-you can't run to the camera store during a wedding; 35mm at f/8 will cover almost every wedding party with plenty of depth of field [you can even do this in the dark at the reception pictures--I am speaking here -with flash set-of course at both venues; 50mm should handle full length bride and/or couple + long train;135mm is correct for portraits. Two strobes, please. You will feel safer. I do not want to hog others time to give you advice. the last thing I would say is be polite, but firm your shots come first-all eyes on you and your directions not aunt Mary or uncle Bob and you do not want 30 flashing cameras wrecking your work. Good Luck. Have fun. Peace. Priest.[/quote]

Oh, OK, I really appreciate this.
When you say two strobes...do you mean one from camera and one off to the side? I just can't afford to rent another flash for this in-home wedding with just 44 people in attendance! The procession, if there is one, will be up close and personal.

150 weddings a year! Impressive.
If I do well on this one I may consider doing more, but I really must perfect my knowledge/technique first. The conventional portrait methods are crucial to know, and I simply need to practice practice practice. (That's how one gets to Carnegie Hall, after all!)

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

A second flash is just good insurance. If one is all you have, so be it.[quote=francesca3]