can anyone help me?
May 13, 2013 16:29:04 #
Does anyone know what kind of beetle (?) this is? Sorry quality isn't that great. They are killing my lilies!
May 13, 2013 16:32:16 #
Karl P
Loc: Leigh NW UK
terichie wrote:
This is the the Scarlet Lily beetle (Lilioceris lilii): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarlet_lily_beetle .Does anyone know what kind of beetle (?) this is? Sorry quality isn't that great. They are killing my lilies!
Can be sprayed or more commonly crushed to eradicate them
Good luck
May 13, 2013 17:18:45 #
I looked him up, sounds like a bad one.
ACTIVE CONTROL: First of all, if you're in an infested area, avoid sending any lilies or other plants to anyone else, and carefully inspect any plants you receive.
Hand-picking should be the first level of control if possible. Constant vigilance and quick removal and disposal of beetles, eggs and larvae can control an infestation on a small number of plants. Make sure the critters are actually dead! If you squash them, don't leave the squashee in the garden. Some gardeners drop them into a can of water with vegetable oil on the top.
If you suspect the beetles may be lurking around your lilies but you don't see any, carefully dig in the top half inch of the soil - no deeper! They hide just under the surface, so be ready to get them when they pop out.
Roxanna reports the following tip: "I recently read somewhere what seems to be a good tip, and pass it along to you in case you want to include it in your FAQ info: the adults are easily spooked when you try to pick them by hand, and if you "miss" them, they tend to drop to the ground where THEY LAND UPSIDE DOWN, and since their tummies are black, they effectively vanish. The suggestion was to place a light-colored cloth under the plant before you hand-pick in order to be able to see the nasty little things if they fall."
If this isn't feasible, then treatment with Neem is the next choice. Neem will repel beetles and kill young larvae, but must be applied every 5 to 7 days after the eggs hatch.
Merit (imidacloprid) is a systemic insecticide which may work if applied to the soil in early spring. Many New England gardeners are also reporting good results from the use of products containing imidacloprid when applied later in the season. Bayer manufactures several products containing systemic insecticides, both in spray and in granular form.
The Bayer Rose and Flower Spray has provided excellent control for many gardeners, without serious toxicity issues. However, it's important to follow the label directions to prevent destruction of bees and other beneficial insects while the spray is drying. The general principle is to apply the product when beneficial insects are not around, and to let it dry. This is probably a good idea with any insecticide since they are not specifically targeted to one insect species.
Other chemicals of relatively low toxicity include the following:
*10% household ammonia, applied to the newly emerging lily sprouts and surrounding soil (reported by northerner on of Ontario, Canada).
*Pyrethroid insecticides (Permethrin is one) kill adult beetles (reported by the UMass Extension).
*Spinosad insecticides kill larvae (reported by the UMass Extension).
....................................................................................
ACTIVE CONTROL: First of all, if you're in an infested area, avoid sending any lilies or other plants to anyone else, and carefully inspect any plants you receive.
Hand-picking should be the first level of control if possible. Constant vigilance and quick removal and disposal of beetles, eggs and larvae can control an infestation on a small number of plants. Make sure the critters are actually dead! If you squash them, don't leave the squashee in the garden. Some gardeners drop them into a can of water with vegetable oil on the top.
If you suspect the beetles may be lurking around your lilies but you don't see any, carefully dig in the top half inch of the soil - no deeper! They hide just under the surface, so be ready to get them when they pop out.
Roxanna reports the following tip: "I recently read somewhere what seems to be a good tip, and pass it along to you in case you want to include it in your FAQ info: the adults are easily spooked when you try to pick them by hand, and if you "miss" them, they tend to drop to the ground where THEY LAND UPSIDE DOWN, and since their tummies are black, they effectively vanish. The suggestion was to place a light-colored cloth under the plant before you hand-pick in order to be able to see the nasty little things if they fall."
If this isn't feasible, then treatment with Neem is the next choice. Neem will repel beetles and kill young larvae, but must be applied every 5 to 7 days after the eggs hatch.
Merit (imidacloprid) is a systemic insecticide which may work if applied to the soil in early spring. Many New England gardeners are also reporting good results from the use of products containing imidacloprid when applied later in the season. Bayer manufactures several products containing systemic insecticides, both in spray and in granular form.
The Bayer Rose and Flower Spray has provided excellent control for many gardeners, without serious toxicity issues. However, it's important to follow the label directions to prevent destruction of bees and other beneficial insects while the spray is drying. The general principle is to apply the product when beneficial insects are not around, and to let it dry. This is probably a good idea with any insecticide since they are not specifically targeted to one insect species.
Other chemicals of relatively low toxicity include the following:
*10% household ammonia, applied to the newly emerging lily sprouts and surrounding soil (reported by northerner on of Ontario, Canada).
*Pyrethroid insecticides (Permethrin is one) kill adult beetles (reported by the UMass Extension).
*Spinosad insecticides kill larvae (reported by the UMass Extension).
....................................................................................
May 13, 2013 18:39:25 #
You got ID and advice above. I am replying about your photos: Not too shabby!
Your Canon 100-mm lens, I presume. What illumination for this series? Keep practicing.
Your Canon 100-mm lens, I presume. What illumination for this series? Keep practicing.
May 13, 2013 19:01:47 #
May 13, 2013 19:03:41 #
Thank you for all the info, Tramsey. Now to get some spray. Last year my lilies were wiped out. :-(
May 13, 2013 19:05:48 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
You got ID and advice above. I am replying about your photos: Not too shabby!
Your Canon 100-mm lens, I presume. What illumination for this series? Keep practicing.
Your Canon 100-mm lens, I presume. What illumination for this series? Keep practicing.
Thank you, Nikonian. Yes, you presumed right, my canon 100mm. f/8 exposure 1/320 ISO 3200 natural sunlight.
May 13, 2013 21:09:42 #
terichie wrote:
Using a 100-mm lens in natural lighting only, I suggest a shutter duration of 1/100-sec or 1/200-sec. Thank you, Nikonian. Yes, you presumed right, my canon 100mm. f/8 exposure 1/320 ISO 3200 natural sunlight.
This will allow a smaller aperture, and greater DoF.
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