whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

I want to learn to take high contrast pictures but in some of the ones that I have taken indoors, the light areas are blown out. This is a result of my not understanding how to set my camera for them. Can anyone please give me advice on how to set my camera manually for this? My Birman cat has a dark raccoon-like face which turns out underexposed a lot. Thanks a lot. :?

johnnyg67 Loc: Northwest Georgia

Hi, I'm not sure which cat is your subject (or both?)but the light is too extreme in your photo between the dark areas and the super bright areas making it basically impossible to have a decent shot (if your trying to get both). Also forgive me I may just be slow tonight, but I'm not sure what you are wanting. I will mention that since your cat has a dark Racoon like face you will have to get a light source on the face of some kind to bring his facial features out. It could be direct or bounced flash, or direct sunlight from a window etc that's not too harsh. The main thing is not to have extreme differences in lighting. Get the face and eyes properly exposed and the body should look close too. (Main light on face and eyes -not too bright, fill light equal or less light on the body) Hope this makes a little sense??? Just my 2 cents :-)

johnnyg67 Loc: Northwest Georgia

I just now saw your second picture...DUH! I said I was slow tonight! :-) It looks like you almost had a light source from a window I think that could have shed some light on his (or her) face, but his head was in the shadow. You may have had something to work with from there if he had been placed facing the light. Then you could work on other things like bringing the details out in post processing if you have Photoshop or other program like that)

EricLPT Loc: Jonesborough TN

The best way to shoot high contrast photos is HDR or High Dynamic Range. Most people overprocess their HDR to look fakey or cartoonish, don't do that. Google HDR for software choices and technique. The short version is take at least 3 photos +1, correct, -1 exposure (a tripod is a must) and then combine them with the software and tweak it a bit.

I experimented with HDR some but never liked it enough to pay for a program. As a result all my HDR pics have 'photomatix' watermarked across them because I'm using the free trial version. I've attached an HDR photo below, this would have been impossible with a single exposure, either the stained glass would have been overexposed or the cathedral interior would have been black.

Good luck and remember 'less is more' with HDR.

Eric

whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

I know the light is extreme in both pictures, hence my question on how to get a correct balance between the light and the darkness. I'm guessing there should be a setting on the camera to compensate for these high contrasts. In the 1st picture you can ignore the kitty at the top. My main concern is the kitty inside the sunlight. There has to be a way of taking high contrast pictures like this without the the lighter area being blown out. I'm working with natural light here so I don't know how I would be able to accomplish this. In the second picture of my Birman, I could probably bounce some light onto her face using a white card. You said the main thing is not to have extreme differences in lighting but isn't that what high contrast means?

whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

Eric, I don't know the 1st thing about HDR except for what you have told me here. I've seen a lot of photos using it. Once you get the photos you want to use is it hard to figure out the rest of it using the software? (That's a nice picture that you posted, by the way). Thank you again for your knowledge.

8-) I love your kitty kat. It reminds me of one of mine

Carioca

Cameras just can't do what your eyes do, yet. They can compensate for the shady areas, or for the bright areas, but not both at the same time.

architect Loc: Chattanooga

Key thing to understand is that with high contrast subjects, you need low contrast lighting. So bright light from a window will not work. Unless your cat is very immobile, HDR, which requires several exposures, may not work either. Soft, low contrast lighting and shooting in RAW should give you some great results.

whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

Ha! Don't worry about it. I was having a hard time posting that 2nd picture so there may have been a delay. But anyway, if her face was facing the sunlight, I think it still would have been washed out just like the back of her head is, don't you think? And if that is the case, then I don't think post processing would have helped. I don't know. I guess I will just have to try more shots like that and see what happens. Cats don't tend to stay put for very long. They have ants in their pants. So when I see an interesting shot (like the way the sun is coming in through the blinds) I have to rush to grab my camera and shoot what I can and hope for the best.I have to get to bed or I'll be sorry at work tomorrow but thank you for all your input and I'll be back tomorrow.

:-)

whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

OK, I see. So how would I do that, say compensate for the bright areas?

whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

My cats are immobile for probably 23 hours a day since their favorite past time is sleeping. But I will keep everything you said in mind. Shooting in RAW is something I see mentioned a lot on this forum but I have no idea what it means or what it does. Can you explain it to me in simplified terms. I'm new to a lot of this. That's why I'm here

:?: :D

architect Loc: Chattanooga

Check out the RAW discussions on here. There are several. Your camera, if it is a point and shoot, may not support RAW files though. RAW files have more graphic information than Jpegs from your camera, so they might have the dynamic tonal range needed for your subject.

To do HDR images requires shooting several exposures, one optimizing shadows, one midtones, and one highlights. They are then combined in editing software. Sounds like your cat could be a perfect subject, as long as you use a tripod.

whitewitch Loc: Buffalo NY

Thanks a lot, Architect, I will check them out. I don't have a point and shoot.and I may have seen something in the manual about it so I will have to read up on it again. I'm looking forward to experimenting with this...
:-P

johnnyg67 Loc: Northwest Georgia

I know that you are getting a lot of advice here that is good, but I think I see from your responses that much of the information is more advanced and confusing (it happens to me too). I did not notice what camera you are using, but the main thing is that when you subject is in a bright area like that you need to try to manually set your camera exposure to a setting that will keep it from blowing out (being too bright or over exposed) If you can adjust your camera to different settings then I would just play with it and change it up to see what your results are.

Example: Shoot the same subject or object and change the F-Stop on your lens to different settings, you can also change the shutter speed to different settings, and change the ISO to different speeds. Number each shot on a peace of paper and be sure to write all the settings down to compare. The best way to learn is by trial and error and also get help along the way. (If I am simplifying things you already know then please accept my apology). However if you do need a brief tutorial on Manual Camera operation vs the Auto Settings i.e. F Stops (aperture), Shutter speeds, and ISO etc then I'm sure there are plenty of us here that will be glad to help. There is not a simple answer when you have such differing light situations, but you will get a lot closer by having the camera settings right.

By the way the second shot looked like the lighting was a little less harsh that's why I thought it may have worked. Nice cats!

cwilliams31 Loc: Salisbury, North Carolina

Heck, just crop the good part and trash the rest.