Nikon D7100 settings for shooting fast-moving objects: I just took delivery on the new Nikon D7100. I am having trouble taking good shots of fast-moving subjects (like birds in flight...

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Nikon D7100 settings for shooting fast-moving objects

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Apr 19, 2013 17:05:21 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

I just took delivery on the new Nikon D7100. I am having trouble taking good shots of fast-moving subjects (like birds in flight, moving automobiles, airplanes, etc.). I know there are a lot of things to be considered when taking pictures of moving objects but can someone tell me, generally speaking, what mode, ISO, etc., to use?

Your advice and help will be appreciated!!

Apr 19, 2013 17:51:54 #

Andy-j Loc: Stoke-on-Trent UK

Try shutter priority (S) 1/1000 or above, ISO about 400 but depends on available light. It's somewhere to start anyway.

Apr 19, 2013 17:53:51 #

sarge69 Loc: Ft Myers, FL

There will be others but from my previous experience with moving objects I would remember:

Higher ISO would allow faster shutter speed.
Apeture would give greater focus in front and behind the object
Panning the object/subject rather than a straight on shot of the moving object.

Someone will probably give a better explanation but the above, with practice helped me with my D5100.

Sarge69

Apr 19, 2013 18:25:46 #

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

The biggest setting you need to be concerned with is the lens setting on the front of the camera. It should be relatively fast and have VR or OS. Good light also makes all the difference in the world as far as a sharp BIF image is concerned.

Apr 20, 2013 06:36:43 #

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

In shooting dragon flies on-the-wing I always open the apreture as wide as it will go, shoot in apreture priority and set the ISO to 1000 or 1200. Stops the action nicely.

Apr 20, 2013 06:44:36 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

Thanks, Andy. Single-servo to go along with your suggested settings???

Apr 20, 2013 06:48:29 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

Thanks, Sarge, for the suggestions! I tried using S mode, 400 ISO, 1/2000, single-servo but still having trouble.

Apr 20, 2013 06:52:26 #

CurreyPhoto Loc: Reddick, Florida

Andy-j wrote:

Try shutter priority (S) 1/1000 or above, ISO about 400 but depends on available light. It's somewhere to start anyway.

This is very good advice. In addition I would set the ISO to "Auto" and set the range between 200 and 6400. Then go out and shoot in good light, look at the pictures and see what the problems are. Look at the settings for the bad pictures and for the good ones in the exif data and take your guidance from the good pictures for the next time out. But before all that, read the instruction book. Study it with the camera in your hands and learn every button and setting and what they do. That will give some basis for changing what Andy and I have said. Good luck.

Apr 20, 2013 06:54:11 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

Thanks, MT. I am using a new Tamron 18-270mm lens (about two months old), VC, AF, Piezo Drive. Should that do the trick with the proper settings on the camera? Was out last Saturday, nice sun-shiny day, blue sky trying to get some flying model airplanes. Tried mode S, single-servo, ISO 200, 1/2000.....still blurry????

Apr 20, 2013 07:00:50 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

Thanks, BboH. Was out last Saturday "shooting" some model airplanes in flight and was using M mode (bright, sunny day). Got some great shots but a fellow photographer told me I should be using the S mode, single-servo, ISO 200, 1/2000.....tried this on some BIF but getting only blurry shots.

Apr 20, 2013 07:14:01 #

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Settings will be dependent on available light. VR (OS) will be of no help with BIF as it only helps with your movement.. I have also recently got this camera (still have my D300 though) & still getting used to it as well...BIF will require high shutter speeds & higher ISO's, even in pretty bright light, no matter what camera. That said, the meter is going to be fooled as well since there will be more of the sky in the frame than the bird (the lens isn't really long enough for BIF)

Noticed you are a fellow Georgian...I'm in the Northwest Metro area (OTP)

Apr 20, 2013 07:22:43 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

Thanks to all for you advice. I guess it boils down to experimenting with all the different settings available and zero in on what works best for you. I've had pretty good success using the M-mode coupled with various settings but was thrown off when a fellow photographer told me I was using the wrong settings, to always use the S-mode when shooting fast-moving subjects. I've attached a few pictures of the model planes I took last Saturday (using M-mode).

P-51 Mustang Model Airplane

Acrobatic Model Airplane

Motorized Glider in Flight

Apr 20, 2013 08:32:09 #

naturepics43 Loc: Hocking Co. Ohio - USA

rshuert wrote:

I just scanned the replies quickly so I may have missed it but............ I didn't see any advice about AF settings. I use AF-C when shooting moving objects (BIF). You will want to check in the custom menue settings on the camera as the "default" setting ( on my D7000 ) was set to "release" priority. Set it to "focus" priority. Hope this helps.

PS: Very nice photos :thumbup:

Apr 20, 2013 09:48:56 #

PhotoArtsLA Loc: Boynton Beach

Panning allows you to shoot moving objects with slower shutter speeds. For example, freezing the props of an airplane makes it look like a model or that it is falling from the sky. Props are a blur, and slower shutter speeds bring out the blur. Panning keeps the plane sharp.

High shutter speeds in the D7100 video mode can get weird. Attached is an intentional goof: I used a high shutter speed in video, shooting the prop of a plane. Note the curvature of the blades, caused by the electronic rolling shutter, but more, note the extra blade, curved like a boomarang. This is an artifact of the high shutter speed combined with the rolling shutter.

High Shutter Speed and Rolling Shutter

Very slow shutter speed and panning.

Apr 21, 2013 12:48:06 #

rshuert Loc: Georgia, USA

Thanks, naturepics. I applied your advice about the "AF" setting and mine, too, was set at the default of "Release". Changed that to "Focus" and boy, did it make a difference! Still have to tweek it some (ISO, shutter sped, etc.) but your suggestion was very helpful....again, thanks.

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