I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
santa carver wrote:
I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
You're on the right track; Here's my check-list:
1. Manual mode
2. Very stable tripod-hang some weight on it too!
3. IS and Auto focus OFF
4. Remote shutter release or 2 sec. timer on camera
5. ISO-200-400 to start
6. f stop at 8-11
7. Shutter at 1/500 at least-especially if you are at 300mm
which is really 480 with 1.6 crop factor.
8. Live View on-this gives you mirror lock up and allows you to
use magnification to focus better.
I think that's it; the main emphasis should be on focus and making sure all equipment is rock solid. At 300mm or greater magnification, the slightest movement is huge.
Your exposure meter should show about 2 stops under exposed; that's good, as you can adjust it post processing. Most of the time, I just use the DPP that came with my camera. It does a great job with unsharp masking.
Hope this helps. :-)
Art
Awagner wrote:
santa carver wrote:
I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
You're on the right track; Here's my check-list:
1. Manual mode
2. Very stable tripod-hang some weight on it too!
3. IS and Auto focus OFF
4. Remote shutter release or 2 sec. timer on camera
5. ISO-200-400 to start
6. f stop at 8-11
7. Shutter at 1/500 at least-especially if you are at 300mm
which is really 480 with 1.6 crop factor.
8. Live View on-this gives you mirror lock up and allows you to
use magnification to focus better.
I think that's it; the main emphasis should be on focus and making sure all equipment is rock solid. At 300mm or greater magnification, the slightest movement is huge.
Your exposure meter should show about 2 stops under exposed; that's good, as you can adjust it post processing. Most of the time, I just use the DPP that came with my camera. It does a great job with unsharp masking.
Hope this helps. :-)
Art
quote=santa carver I have a canon T3i and using a... (
show quote)
I'd add bracket, bracket and more bracket.
I got This from one of the Sites
1. you need a long lens... 200mm at a bare minimum, 400mm is better.
2. you need a tripod, and preferably a cable release.
3. for a full moon, set your camera for 1/125 @ f/8, ISO 200, and experiment from there. you may find you need a faster or slower shutter speed to get the exposure you want, but that's half the fun.
For focusing purposes, the moon can be considered an infinite distance from earth. It is always noon daylight on the lighted side of the moon, so your exposure should be 1/ISO (shutter speed) at f/16 (aperture). Full moon, half moon, quarter moon will be the same exposure, or very close.
Recommended starting exposure at ISO 400, manual settings of 1/400-sec at f/16, lens at infinite focal distance. Longer lenses means faster shutter speed (to reduce camera shake) and a little wider aperture.
When using a tripod turn OFF your IS (Image Stabilization) or VR (Vibration Reduction).
I tried them and got these Pics which were good for what I usually get..lol
Whatmark is just because someone on facebook keeps taking my pics n claiming them as their own n i became frustrated when I said Hey Those I took and they said prove it..So I watermarked it before I posted it there..
This one is at 300mm, f/16 and 1/100 at ISO 200.
Moon
You are shooting a relitively fast moving target souse the highest ISO possible, 800 or even 1600, this allows the highest shutter speed ( on exposure delay ). You will always be fighting atmospheric disturbances called "seeing" so set on continuous and take a large number of exposures.
Best setup is remote control or PC control using Live View for manual focus and test shots for exposure ( after all you are not wasting film!
Another way is to use Live View to record a movie after setting exposure and focus, moving the camera to keep the moon centered. Try for a 60 sec or more time frame . Convert to BMP and process with a stacking program like Registax 6 and finish is Photoshop.
Regards, Gary
santa carver wrote:
I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
In addition to the other suggestions, I would recommend spot metering on the moon in aperture priority. My preference is around f9, but anything in the aperture midrange should work.
santa carver wrote:
I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
In addition to the other suggestions, I would recommend spot metering on the moon in aperture priority. My preference is f9, but anything in the aperture midrange should work. I leave my ISO on 200 for the sharpest possible photo. A f9, my D300 decided 1/250 shutter speed would work for this one. Yes, it's cropped.
I think another thing your great photo shows is that you get better detail along the light line; i.e. using a phase moon vs. a full moon will give more detail.
Regards,
Larry Leach
RLPCEP wrote:
santa carver wrote:
I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
In addition to the other suggestions, I would recommend spot metering on the moon in aperture priority. My preference is f9, but anything in the aperture midrange should work. I leave my ISO on 200 for the sharpest possible photo. A f9, my D300 decided 1/250 shutter speed would work for this one. Yes, it's cropped.
quote=santa carver I have a canon T3i and using a... (
show quote)
santa carver wrote:
I have a canon T3i and using a 75-300 1:4-5.6 III LENSE.
In auto mode it is just too much light.
I'm getting closer with manual mode but still can't get sharp picture.
Any suggestions would help.
ok no mooning me LOL :lol:
Pending UHH Frequently Asked Questions: How to Photograph the Moon.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user_page.jsp?upnum=109
One problem there. Infinate focus is undetermined, especially with autofocus lenses which range focus beyond infinate.
Regards, Gary
Voliton wrote:
One problem there. Infinate focus is undetermined, especially with autofocus lenses which range focus beyond infinate.
Do not use Auto-Focus! Use Manual focus. All moon photography should be manual settings. Simple as that.
Beyond infinite? Seems like an oxymoron.
Voliton wrote:
One problem there. Infinate focus is undetermined, especially with autofocus lenses which range focus beyond infinate.
Regards, Gary
:-D
If you believe that is happening and it bothers you I have a solution for you that is guaranteed to work all the time: Don't post to the Internet.
You'll be a happier person.
Regards,
Larry Leach
bratz4us wrote:
Whatmark is just because someone on facebook keeps taking my pics n claiming them as their own n i became frustrated when I said Hey Those I took and they said prove it..So I watermarked it before I posted it there..
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