RickN
Loc: Pacific Northwest USA
Exactly what I was asking...........I think with some experimenting and the OPPORTUNITY, It could produce some fantastic results.......
Indi
Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.
I forgot that I was shooting in RAW+JPG, so I played with ViewNX2 just now. The first picture is the first I posted last night. The second is from the RAW picture.
Any improvement?
Original Post Cropped
RAW processed with ViewNX2
Indi,
I like them both; first one I think is just a bit too dark and second shot needs brightness bumped down a touch. With a RAW image, you've always got more info to work with when it's PP time. Detail is there in both-nice shots.
Art
Instead of a remote timer try your time delay on the camera itself. Once its on a trypod the shake is about the same..
WKP111 wrote:
Instead of a remote timer try your time delay on the camera itself. Once its on a trypod the shake is about the same..
Wow that's what I need, a tiger in my camera (sorry couldn't resist LOL).
Indi wrote:
I forgot that I was shooting in RAW+JPG, so I played with ViewNX2 just now. The first picture is the first I posted last night. The second is from the RAW picture.
Any improvement?
I like the JPEG better. Looks like you did not process the RAW yet. What kind of P/P software did/do you use?
here mine, I hand held the camera, (tri-pod is missing a piece). 1/400, f9, ISO 400. 70 X300mm lens Canon 60D
Sunday night.
Rachel,
Great shot, especially hand held. Nice detail; what did you PP with?? That 60D does a great job with these night pics.
Awagner wrote:
Rachel,
Great shot, especially hand held. Nice detail; what did you PP with?? That 60D does a great job with these night pics.
Thank you, I wish I had not lost the piece that holds the camera to the tri-pod. I might have gotten a better shot. The lens I used does not have any VR or IS. It's a $200.00 70-300mm lens so you can see it's not top quaility.
Anyway, I used Lightroom. I just sharpen it (very little) and may a small adjustment on the brightness and slightly increased the saturation. Then I put it into PS5 and auto adjusted the curves. Which did not change a lot, but did add a slight better punch.
No VR either? Now it's an even better shot! You have a much steadier hand than I could ever hope for.
Your shot looks like some of mine, which is why I asked what you did for PP. I usually just play with brightness, and use the unsharp masking in the Digital Photo Professional software that came with my 60D. I was curious if there was a better way to get those results.
Art
Rachel - If you have more than one camera, that lost piece is probably attached to one of them. If you really lost it, I bought one from B&H for about $14. (I later found the lost one on the bottom of another camera)
Full Moon shot through a Meade ETX-105 Telescope with Canon T1i attached at rear port with Celestron adapter. Image just as it came off the chip, no photoshop. Used live view to focus. Images through larger telescopes reveal better resolution. Image taken on night of 21 March 2011 which was the "SuperMoon" or largest for the year from Snoqualmie Point Park near North Bend, Washington. The Moon thru C14 was shot at prime focus through a Celestron C14 SCT Telescope. ISO 400 at 1/400 sec. No photoshop. Focus was done with live view while viewing LCD on back of camera. Focus was obtained by adjusting during moments of good seeing over 15 min period. Shot taken in Tacoma, Washington.
Full Moon - ETX105 - T1i Prime Focus
Moon thru C14 at Prime Focus
WOW!!! after looking at all of these great shots. I can hardly wait for the next pre full/full/post full moon to happen. (between Dec-7 and Dec-13) I'm going to give all the advice gathered here a shot with my Nikon D3100 and new 55-300mm lens. I do have a couple of questions though. Do you shoot a crescent moon like a full moon as far as ISO and Aperture goes, because it's reflecting way less light than a full moon? Would it be better to be out in the country away from city lights to shoot the moon? Thanks for all your advice so far
taken with D3100 and 18-55mm lens, handheld
madcapmagishion wrote:
WOW!!! after looking at all of these great shots. I can hardly wait for the next pre full/full/post full moon to happen. (between Dec-7 and Dec-13) I'm going to give all the advice gathered here a shot with my Nikon D3100 and new 55-300mm lens. I do have a couple of questions though. Do you shoot a crescent moon like a full moon as far as ISO and Aperture goes, because it's reflecting way less light than a full moon? Would it be better to be out in the country away from city lights to shoot the moon? Thanks for all your advice so far
WOW!!! after looking at all of these great shots. ... (
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Anywhere you can go to to take pics of the moon with as little "light pollution" as possible is always a good thing.
Also, a crescent moon will most likely require a bit slower shutter speed, or higher ISO, or larger aperture and / or combination of all three, depending on how you set up your camera. There is definiitely less light with a crescent moon than with a full, or even half moon. I usually start with ISO of 200, Aperture of f7.1-f11 and shutter speed of 1/250th and work from there. I am using a Canon 60D, which has Live View and also has a 5x and 10x magnification on the LCD screen, so I can adjust all settings and instantly see how it affects the picture. I don't know that much about your Nikon 3100, but I think you have the same features with your LCD screen.
Whatever you end up with, remember to keep the shutter speed up as the moon moves pretty quickly across the sky, and you'll want to freeze that motion when you shoot.
Hope this helps.
Awagner/ wrote:
Anywhere you can go to to take pics of the moon with as little "light pollution" as possible is always a good thing.
Also, a crescent moon will most likely require a bit slower shutter speed, or higher ISO, or larger aperture and / or combination of all three, depending on how you set up your camera. There is definiitely less light with a crescent moon than with a full, or even half moon. I usually start with ISO of 200, Aperture of f7.1-f11 and shutter speed of 1/250th and work from there. I am using a Canon 60D, which has Live View and also has a 5x and 10x magnification on the LCD screen, so I can adjust all settings and instantly see how it affects the picture. I don't know that much about your Nikon 3100, but I think you have the same features with your LCD screen.
Whatever you end up with, remember to keep the shutter speed up as the moon moves pretty quickly across the sky, and you'll want to freeze that motion when you shoot.
Hope this helps.
br Anywhere you can go to to take pics of the moo... (
show quote)
Thanks for the reply and info. Yes I believe the D3100 is capable of what you said. I will have to try it out and see.
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