Rembrandt lighting: Hi Hoggers, I'm using two studio strobes equipped with diffusers and soft box. I find it difficult, if not impossible to achieve the Rembrandt effect. Is it because...

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

Hi Hoggers,
I'm using two studio strobes equipped with diffusers and soft box. I find it difficult, if not impossible to achieve the Rembrandt effect. Is it because of the soft lighting or my 'ineptness'? Maybe because of my subject's small nose!
Need help. Thanks in advance.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Papa Joe wrote:

Hi Hoggers,
I'm using two studio strobes equipped with diffusers and soft box. I find it difficult, if not impossible to achieve the Rembrandt effect. Is it because of the soft lighting or my 'ineptness'? Maybe because of my subject's small nose!
Need help. Thanks in advance.

Try it without a diffuser on your key light. From there it should be just a mater of getting the right light ratio.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

selmslie wrote:

Papa Joe wrote:

Hi Hoggers,
I'm using two studio strobes equipped with diffusers and soft box. I find it difficult, if not impossible to achieve the Rembrandt effect. Is it because of the soft lighting or my 'ineptness'? Maybe because of my subject's small nose!
Need help. Thanks in advance.

Try it without a diffuser on your key light. From there it should be just a mater of getting the right light ratio.

Correct...sometimes it's hard to see with the light being so soft....

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

selmslie wrote:

Papa Joe wrote:

Hi Hoggers,
I'm using two studio strobes equipped with diffusers and soft box. I find it difficult, if not impossible to achieve the Rembrandt effect. Is it because of the soft lighting or my 'ineptness'? Maybe because of my subject's small nose!
Need help. Thanks in advance.

Try it without a diffuser on your key light. From there it should be just a mater of getting the right light ratio.

Thank you, I will try that. I wonder, should I remove just the diffuser or also the soft box? I'll try it both ways. I hesitated to do so because the subject is female, but she is partial to that lighting form. I'm from 'the old school', where we used continuous light. Still learning about studio strobesl Your replies are appreciated.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

[quote=Papa Joe

Thank you, I will try that. I wonder, should I remove just the diffuser or also the soft box? I'll try it both ways. I hesitated to do so because the subject is female, but she is partial to that lighting form. I'm from 'the old school', where we used continuous light. Still learning about studio strobesl Your replies are appreciated.[/quote]

Only do it with bare lights to get them positioned...then diffuse them again :)

And if you are just learning with strobes...it helps to be tethered to a laptop so you can see in real time...what the effect of the lighting is....

If you tether into Lightroom you can see and adjust and keep snapping until you are satisfied...

See my screen shot ...

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

[quote=rpavich]

Papa Joe

Thank you, I will try that. I wonder, should I remove just the diffuser or also the soft box? I'll try it both ways. I hesitated to do so because the subject is female, but she is partial to that lighting form. I'm from 'the old school', where we used continuous light. Still learning about studio strobesl Your replies are appreciated.[/quote wrote:

Only do it with bare lights to get them positioned...then diffuse them again :)

And if you are just learning with strobes...it helps to be tethered to a laptop so you can see in real time...what the effect of the lighting is....

If you tether into Lightroom you can see and adjust and keep snapping until you are satisfied...

See my screen shot ...

Some good suggestions. I'll give it a shot, although I've never tethered before. First time for everything, eh?

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

[quote=Papa Joe]

rpavich wrote:

quote=Papa Joe br br Thank you, I will try that.... (show quote)

Yep...once you tether...you'll love it.

You can buy a tether cable for less than $5.00 at Monoprice.com that works just fine.

I recommend using a "jerk stopper" too so the cable won't get pulled out and ruin the camera's USB jack.

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

[quote=rpavich]

Papa Joe wrote:

quote=rpavich quote=Papa Joe br br Thank you, I... (show quote)

"Jerk Stopper", eh? Sounds like something we need on this site to control some comments.... but I digress.... I presume you mean it's a preventative measure that will take the 'pull', rather than subjecting the camera to it? What does it attach to? Thanks for your suggestions.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

[quote=Papa Joe]

rpavich wrote:

quote=Papa Joe quote=rpavich quote=Papa Joe br ... (show quote)

It's a strain relief that attaches to the camera and cable so the jerk stopper takes the brunt of any tugs and not the camera itself...it's $23.00 but worth it in my opinion. One end for the camera and one end for the laptop...

http://www.amazon.com/Tether-Tools-JerkStopper-Tethering-Mount/dp/B003T1Q8EO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1361983710&sr=8-3&keywords=jerkstopper

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

Papa Joe wrote:

Hi Hoggers,
I'm using two studio strobes equipped with diffusers and soft box. I find it difficult, if not impossible to achieve the Rembrandt effect. Is it because of the soft lighting or my 'ineptness'? Maybe because of my subject's small nose!
Need help. Thanks in advance.

When I was taught studio lighting many decades ago my mentor insisted that I always start with my main light only . . . then add the others one at a time. With only the main light on it is much easier to see what the end result will be.

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

Weddingguy wrote:

quote=Papa Joe Hi Hoggers, br I'm using two studi... (show quote)

I agree with that Weddingguy. I was taught the same method, to think of my main light as the 'sun' and go from there. (My old teacher used to say, "God didn't need two lights to light the day!") In fact, I tried just one light but the strobe softbox and diffuser seemed to work against me. Guess I'll try it, as suggested, first without softening, get it positioned, and then soften again. :D Thank you for your input.

CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

What Weddingguy said. Get the main light correct first. The main is the ONLY light that should be casting a shadow. The fill is just that - it fills the otherwise dark shadow side to bright out detail. In same cases, you might forget the fill altogether.

The attached used one strobe in a 2x3 soft box.

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

CaptainC wrote:

What Weddingguy said. Get the main light correct first. The main is the ONLY light that should be casting a shadow. The fill is just that - it fills the otherwise dark shadow side to bright out detail. In same cases, you might forget the fill altogether.

The attached used one strobe in a 2x3 soft box.

Thanks Captain. I tried with just one light and I agree with you, it should be the only (main) light, at least to begin with but I had problems (I guess) because the light source was too soft. Will modify that and try again. Appreciate your help. As is obvious, I've become rustier than an old nail :cry:

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

Papa Joe wrote:

quote=CaptainC What Weddingguy said. Get the mai... (show quote)

If you are only using one light, and you cannot see where the light is going, I would suspect that your ambient light is too bright. Try reducing the ambient light in your room/studio by covering windows or turning off light fixtures.

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

Weddingguy wrote:

quote=Papa Joe quote=CaptainC What Weddingguy s... (show quote)

Wedingguy, you hit the nail directly on the head! The culprit was the room light. Dumb of me not to realize that. By reducing the ambient light in the room and switching the modeling light to a brighter setting, .... problem solved, even with the soft box on. Thank You!