I'm a bit of an expert in what's called "Auto Renewal" where you get a customer on a credit card and automatic renewal. The major advantage of this marketing approach is that customer are less price sensitive and it's easier to raise price. So I've always known what they are up to. For awhile, I'll put up with price increases because they are adding features to Photoshop that I'm using a lot.
I did that but problem persists.
You should read more carefully. Auto ISO switches to on by itself. I turn it off and then as I change modes from Aperture to Manual or U1 to Aperture Auto ISO turns on. I'm an experienced photographer and this doesn't happen with my D500 or D4s.
Yes, I'm using U1 and it is set to Auto ISO off, but sometimes when I switch to U1 Auto ISO will turn on.
The point is that it doesn't stay. When ISO is set in Manual and Auto ISO is off, it will switch Auto ISO to ON as I change modes.
Unfortunately your answer doesn't apply. I'm a very experienced photographer and know how to set ISO. What I'm experiencing does not occur on my D500 or d4s when I use Auto ISO.
I'm not touching anything but the mode dial and moving from U1 or M to A
At the top of the Auto ISO menu, there's a place to set ISO and that setting should not change.
My D750 switches into Auto ISO on it's own and when its in Auto ISO the ISO setting will change on it's own.
I bracket two stops up and two down plus normal for a total of three. I can use one shot, combine two or do HDR processing. Anything less than two stops is a waste of time as post processing can easily adjust one stop in either direction.
Watch out for bait and switch offers. I'd stay with the big guys.
The bowl may need more shots. For a 9 inch bowl I used 20 shots. When you first start using a lens for minor changes in focus, they often are sticky and loosen over time. Keep trying and experimenting. I start with one shot at front with everything out of focus and slowly move back until everything is out of focus. When you stack the out of focus shots won't be used but you know you got everything. The lens I was using for my bowl was a Nikon 70 to 200 and f8 which is the sweet spot for that lens. DOF was roughly .5 inches.
All digital cameras under expose under certain lighting conditions. That's why we set the white and black points when we start post processing. The D500 doesn't under expose any more than any other camera. I own a D750, a D500 and a D4s and I'm extremely happy with all of them. I primarily use the D500 and D4s as wildlife cameras and the full frame D750 for landscape and art photography. I also use the D500 for street photography.
It may not be open in June. Check out the National Bison Range for great wildlife and all photography is from the car or standing by it. Great photography at Virginia City and Nevada City, two Montana ghost towns.
I mainly use Auto ISO for Wildlife Photography and Street Photography where fast reaction is needed and there's variable light. In other words, any photography where you don't have time to adjust exposure settings. I operate under the principal that getting the shot is paramount and worry about ISO later. So I watch the ISO I'm getting and adjust aperture and shutter speed as much as possible for the subject but eventually I'll let the ISO go sky high if I have to for the shot. The max shutter is determined by the anticipated movement of the subject such as a bird in flight or a Bison standing still and aperture is determined by the required depth of field.
I use DxO OpticsPro 11 when I use ISO above 6400 and sometimes I can't recover a decent photo at extreme ISO. Recently, I was photographing Tule Elk after sunset at ISO 28,800 at f5.6 and 1/200 shutter while hand holding. I got the shot but it's soft as the Elk was moving slowly and the noise correction softened the image. But I gave it the old college try even though I knew the light wasn't sufficient.
I occasionally use Auto ISO for landscape photography if I'm hand holding and need to work a scene very quickly. So I might use f16 for depth of field and 1/250 s if the light is good. In that situation, I can go up to ISO 1600 without much concern. You need to determine for your camera where ISO starts to become too obnoxious. With your lens cap on, take a series of photos at different ISO's and post process them.