I am relatively new to my Canon 7D Mark II camera. I was wondering when should I use Auto ISO and what should my max and min settings be??
Any suggestions.
I only use auto ISO when both my aperture and shutter speed can't otherwise be set to give me the results I want.
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I use it at events where lighting isn't that great but I want a minimum shutter speed of, maybe 1/400. I set my aperture at 2.8 and let the camera pick the lowest ISO that will allow for the 1/400 (or faster) shutter speed. I generally set the max ISO to be the maximum the camera can do with the philosophy a grainy image is better than no image...
Does the results you want mean the proper exposure level??
henderson111 wrote:
I am relatively new to my Canon 7D Mark II camera. I was wondering when should I use Auto ISO and what should my max and min settings be??
Any suggestions.
I do not use canon, so I am not familiar with the settings, but on my camera I am able to set a max auto ISO setting for when I need to use auto as opposed to manual. I took my camera out in both daylight and twilight and took a series of photos (of the same subject) with all available ISO settings, then took them home and reviewed them to see where the ISO was absolutely unusable before I set my max auto ISO. If you get into a situation where you need a higher ISO and are willing to except the lower quality of the photo, you can always set the higher ISO manually. Hopefully this helps.
I never use auto , it's so easy to have it on a quick dial ,and always use the lowest setting , and if I need to change any thing else fstops
SS it's a click away also
henderson111 wrote:
I am relatively new to my Canon 7D Mark II camera. I was wondering when should I use Auto ISO and what should my max and min settings be??
Any suggestions.
Use manual shutter and aperture settings with Auto ISO enabled when both the lighting is variable so that proper exposure is variable and when you want to control the creative effects of shutter speed and aperture. Never use Auto ISO along with any auto exposure mode that controls either or both shutter speed or aperture.
Typical times to avoid Auto ISO are shooting indoor sports where the lighting is the same for every shot, landscapes on a clear day or an overcast day, or anything using artificial light. Probably not good for things like birds in flight if they might have bright sky behind them.
Typical times to use it are partly cloudy days or when you alternate between the sun and the shade, or any time you will need a quick response to catch a shot.
Also keep in mind that you are setting aperture and shutter speed primarily for creative effect. That fixes exposure, and ISO just changes the brightness. You can customize the brightness by changing Exposure Compensation (which will change the ISO that controls brightness, not the exposure).
Bill_de wrote:
I only use auto ISO when both my aperture and shutter speed can't otherwise be set to give me the results I want.
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If you know the exposure triangle you should not need to use AUTO ISO. Basically never, unless you are in a hurry to get the shot then letting the camera work for you would make more sense.
chaman wrote:
If you know the exposure triangle you should not need to use AUTO ISO. Basically never, unless you are in a hurry to get the shot then letting the camera work for you would make more sense.
That is exactly backwards. If you understand how and why it works it might be used most of the time, or not, totally depending on what kind of light one is shooting in. Like any other tool it is extremely useful when it is appropriate and worthless when it isn't. Knowing which is which doesn't seem to be common...
joer
Loc: Colorado/Illinois
henderson111 wrote:
I am relatively new to my Canon 7D Mark II camera. I was wondering when should I use Auto ISO and what should my max and min settings be??
Any suggestions.
You can use it whenever you want.
There is no minimum, just max. You have to determine that yourself taking into account the camera, subject, action and lighting.
An example would be: shooting birds moving quickly from perch to perch, and the lighting is insufficient to provide the DOF and SS needed for sharp images. Set the shutter and aperture to freeze the action and provide the required DOF. Set the max ISO to a comfortable level which can very camera to camera and your tolerance for noise. It may be wise to do some noise reduction in the PP.
Those are all variables that YOU need to choose and no one can do it for you.
joer wrote:
... There is no minimum, just max. ...
I can't be specific about how Canon does it, but it is very likely much the same as Nikon. With Nikon there is a menu option to set the maximum ISO, and nothing labeled as a minimum. But there are menu options to set the current ISO... and that is the minimum! Auto ISO will never adjust to lower than the manually set ISO value, as it only goes up.
Apaflo wrote:
That is exactly backwards. If you understand how and why it works it might be used most of the time, or not, totally depending on what kind of light one is shooting in. Like any other tool it is extremely useful when it is appropriate and worthless when it isn't. Knowing which is which doesn't seem to be common...
Nope its not backwards. You are convoluting the argument unnecessarily to fit your reasoning. If you know what you are doing you dont need to use AUTO ISO. You can choose the ISO depending on the conditions and, again if you know what you are doing, you will get better results than letting the camera find the "best" ISO. Letting the camera choose usually does not create the best quality possible. I know how to use it, have use it and I just obtain better IQ when I take control. I understand the tool and the tool does not care for quality, it just cares to get a more or less usable image.
Mac
Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.
chaman wrote:
Nope its not backwards. You are convoluting the argument unnecessarily to fit your reasoning. If you know what you are doing you dont need to use AUTO ISO. You can choose the ISO depending on the conditions and, again if you know what you are doing, you will get better results than letting the camera find the "best" ISO. Letting the camera choose usually does not create the best quality possible. I know how to use it, have use it and I just obtain better IQ when I take control. I understand the tool and the tool does not care for quality, it just cares to get a more or less usable image.
Nope its not backwards. You are convoluting the ar... (
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How about when you are photographing a bird that is flying from shadow to light to shadow and you want a fast shutter speed---say 1/2000 and a small aperture---say f/11? You could be the worlds greatest authority on ISO and still you would not be quick enough to change the ISO to the needed setting for each change of light. The same if you are shooting a flower under a partly cloudy sky with the clouds moving to block then unblock the sun?
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