I try to work with scrap first, sometimes I'm designing as I go. I've still got to figure out a clamp screw for the tilting blade. I had originally thought to simply make the blade's pivot bolt a clamping bolt (which may work yet), but I'll probably have to put in a clamping screw on on a knob to do it. Right now, I'm milling the big slot. SLOW.
An old-style (view?) camera would certainly make an interesting project. I love working with brass. Aluminum is nice to work with, but not pretty like brass (or quite as expensive).
So the WeMarco rails come from China? I didn't notice that.
I'm currently turning a ball end on a piece of 1.75" aluminum rod. I had to refresh (re-learn?) how to generate lathe code with Vector CAD/CAM, it's been a while since I did that.
Pictures after I mill the slot in the ball head to take a 1/2" thick piece of aluminum to make up the tilting mount for the camera rails.
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LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I made a cone shaped laminated diffuser that fits inside the big ring that attaches the R200s. I'm just going as compact as I can. I expect to see the shape of the diffusion panel in a jumper's eyes-- but very few critters are so highly reflective. I'll see if I can find a picture of it
Thanks, I'd appreciate a pix. It fits inside the R1 ring? I've got individual (3) defusers on the SB-200s.
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I really like the simplicity (and portability) of Kurt's design.
Yes, I studied Kurt's design. Great photos!
Nikonian72 wrote:
The Nikon R1 or the R1C1 systems are excellent, but quite expensive. The main drawback is the difficulty in diffusing the illumination over larger surface to soften shadow edges. This is why many of use use a standard speedlight off-axis, with a 6x8-inch softbox diffuser.
Thanks for the Pix. I've got a Chinese soft box, haven't tried it for macro. I have the R1 with 3 flashes, so I want to get proficient with it first. I did add Vello defusers on my SB-200 flashes (R1).
Doesn't look like I've got the required menus on my D3300. Will have to wait until I get a D7200 (D7300?).
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
to adjust the ratios of the individual R200s you need to go through the the Menu on the DSLR. It's not that practical
And I don't think I can adjust ratios on my D3300
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I did buy the SU-800 after "getting by" with the IR screen + the pop-up for a year or so. Well worth it to use with the unit. What was a pain was setting flash ratios via the camera menu. I've always set the second one at 1/4 output of the primary. I'm curious what others have used to add a bit of modeling. My use was strictly for single shot field work. I'll have to try it with some stacking.
Looks like I have another purchase coming up! Humm, new tripod head, or SU-800.
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I also have the R1 and I've never considered it to be underpowered.
I wondered about the R1's speedlights moving closer to the subject. That will change the lighting, for sure! So for stacking maybe they DO need to be on their own stands. I bought rechargeable CR123As, and of course, yet another charger. I don't have an SU-800 to use yet, does the SB-400 work as a commander? IR-Screen?
naturepics43 wrote:
if you plan to also use it for studio focus stacking, you might consider the R1C1 kit which includes the SU-800 commander unit.
Good point. I bought the R1 thinking I could always get the SU-800 later. I currently use my SB-700 to command, as my D3300 cannot. I'll probably get a D500 or D7200 (D7300?) at some later date. Thanks for the comments.
mawyatt wrote:
Yep the micro-steps produce vibrations, if you can hear it...it's moving something!! Since this is continuous you can't get away from it with longer exposures, only integrate it over the exposure period....which may or may not help. I've found in my setup that flash exposure works better than continuous exposure. I'm stuck at about 4~5ms flash period because of the strobes and multiple triggers, but would like to get down well below 1ms....maybe as low as a few 100us. The strobes that can produce these short light bursts at very high powers are also expensive. For example, going from 4ms to 250us requires 4 stops more light!!
Agree that a "stiff" heavily damped system is the best and simplest overall solution for micro-stepping induced vibration. Another solution I've been working on is to use a 400 step stepper motor rather than the standard 200 step motor. Since this adds twice the fixed rotor magnetic cogs, vibration should be lower (~6dB) as "seen" from the rail system (assuming a low pass nature) for a given micro-step size. Anyway, this is an ongoing experiment..so we'll see.
Yep the micro-steps produce vibrations, if you can... (
show quote)
Check out the Gecko drives. They include resonance dampening circuitry, and very fine steps. 400 SPI is a good idea. I'm working from what's in my parts stack. Although I may order a G310X Gecko drive to study the difference. The NEMA #23 drives have greater rotor inertia, which I think should help.
You're talking about vibration, but doesn't the dwell before the exposure take care of most of that? For CNC, the cutter is moving, so any vibrations become problematic.
I've always liked flash. More 'electronic', I suppose. I'm going to try an Nikkon R1 flash system first.
mawyatt wrote:
Try and keep the lens optical axis (bore sight) in alignment with it's movement as mentioned by oldtigger.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. My initial efforts will not be very high resolution, or magnification. The bore sight work will be interesting.
That's a LOT of data! Adding digital photography (past point-and-shoot) certainly makes more demand on my PC editing system. Can't have too much memory or processor power!
Yeah it's fun to be able to think up and then machine parts that I want! I really appreciate that capability. I won't say it's art, but creating and making parts is my creative outlet. I've also designed and built working model steam engines (stationary engines, not the train). However my photography interests go back a long, long time. I like these new tools!
OK, I can hinge an additional plate to the end plate (lens end), which will allow the rails to tilt the camera down. Easy peasy. So is that enough? Do I need to tilt up at all?
I just had an idea, I could also put a second pivot at right angles to the tilt plate. It would be a yoke to straddle an upright block that would screw onto the tripod's 3/8"-16 post. Then I'd have tilt and pan.