Oh,
Thank you very much , Now I know different ways .... will explore

M

OK, thank you for the hints. I did not put it on UHH ... I have to read the conditions. I think there are some restrictions there ... such as asking for the price offer. I must read it. M

Can anybody let me know if & where I can sell the old cameras? . Non digital, manual focusing ...I guess 30 years old (well maintained, not used too much) Nikon FE & Nikon FG 20 . I also have 28 mm lens Vivitar ; 50mm Nikon E lens and zoom 80-200 mm lens .
In addition I have a Flexaret (made in Czechoslovakia in 1962), still with leather casing . I got it in 1964 and used not much as a boy and teenager. Still working 6x6 cm film.

I am trying to find the value of these items and eventually to get some $ toward a new camera.

Thank you for the advice M

I am not on the same technical level as other guys, but, I have 7100. I have dropper this camera 2x - still perfect. I would say ...look at 7100 features you do not have with 7000 …& do you really want them sooooo much (ie. Do you really need them … at the cost) Do the same with 7200 and then compare / decide. Today $200 is a lot of money, tomorrow you will not remember it. But the rule of buying is ...you need to get 3x excited and 3x sober ...then you buy . And still expect the buyers remorse.

M

BebuLamar - you were correct. I have used this flash some time before … tested setings and was ready .
Somehow I switched the TTL on camera flash ON . Now it is just fine … el cheapo works, just needs to be set up again .
Thank you very much. I somehow sensed the small itch is involved, but without your help I would still flash my garage. But I have learned a valuable lesson -> Do everything manually !!! So you have also saved me some $$$ by not buying the fancy stuff. I appreciate it . Visiting Florida? Call ! I owe you beer . Miro

BebuLamar - I will try tomorrow ….I feel, you are right ….. The manual does not answer it , I think. But I screwed for sure . Setting camera to manual, I thought it is all I need. Now I see I have the flash set to TTL …..in camera , not the flash itself - it is not TTL smart, I believe. Let's see . Thanks Miro

BebuLamar - You asked about …. if I have a manual. I have answered - yes I have ….but my response got stuck in the computer . Sorry M

I have, All 4 slave modes are the same- I will try again . As I wrote previously , I was told . it can be a weak capacitor ….but on the camera it fires strong .

First of all - I did not want to insult agillot in any way, and sorry if he took it that way. Also I do not want to argue my description of the problem being clear. I tried to explain all the conditions involved. I also said … it is rather a curiosity question. The Vivitar flash is simple and manual rather minimal - but clear enough. OK that was the answer to the spanking for my language. If I can find who wrote it I would explain in PM …. but … is it worth it? PS: English is my 3rd/4th language, so please try to tolerate it.
M


E.L.Shapiro & BebuLamar - I appreciate you PhD evaluation and your time. I have to now go into your details and digest it. My mistake -> I just thought the 1/60 is the every flash synch (as default). And I do not think this cheap flash can do any sync/TTL. Thyristor is another cuss word which can be between the camera and slave. -> Bottom line : On camera , it flashes too much, Off camera , it flashes too little .

S1: Instant synchronization. This device fires after it senses the first flash fired from the camera. S2: This device fires after it senses the second flash fired from the camera. S3: This device fires after it senses the third flash fired from the camera. S4: This device fires after it senses the fourth flash fired from the camera. After the Ready Light glows the device is ready to use. You should now switch the flash of your camera to “On”.

Previously somebody told me it is a weak capacitor, but from the camera body it fires strong . All 4 slave modes weak.

agillot - I appreciate your response, but it does not answer my question , why the flash is working OK while on camera and weak when it is in the slave mode. Miro

This is more mental challenge than need for help. I will buy a new one. I have already asked.(answer=capacitor). I am not so sure now.
I have this cheap flash used with Nikon 7100. It does not work right /or at all. Capacitor? set up?

1.Camera is in manual mode and located in dark room. Camera flash is set to minimum strength.
ISO 4000, 1/60 F 5.6 -> if only camera ... "picture" is black. Camera flash takes picture dark.(set to: -2)
2. If I mount the flash on top of camera - I get a bleached picture …. regardless of its setting.
3. If I move the flash into the 5' distance and use it as a slave, the flash fires, but very weak, so I do not see its impact and the difference in the picture . As a slave, it also incorporates the camera flash, right? I have tested this in all 4 modes of slave operation and all possible wide/zoom and set strength (distance on flash)

So, what can be the problem? I am clueless … so it must be something simple.

Enjoy the challenge and thank you for the participation in this teaser. Miro

OK, I suggest ...wait a few days. I do not have profi and expensive gear. But my Tamron lens 16-300 just left my house for the repair - second time the same issue - focusing went stuck and getting worse every day …. and I do not shoot many pictures. Yes they have 6 years warranty … but what you do after it?

Miro

------Yes, I am afraid you are right. I just tried to avoid buying 2 new flashes. I am kind of familiar with your article advice .. but did not get into it (bouncing etc.)

OK thanks , I think I / we have beaten this dog enough. I appreciate your help . Miro

Yes, it is a good one for me. But if I have it hidden = interrupted light beam it will not trigger. So I still need a radio trigger and a flash replacing the camera pop out.
Thanks
Miro