Easy to do, select the images you want to delete then right click on one of the selected images. In the dialog box that pops up, select the second from the bottom "Remove Images". Another dialog box then asks if you want to just remove the images from Lightroom or delete from disc. Select delete from disc and your photos will go to the recycle bin and will be permanently deleted when you empty the bin. This is for Windows, but the procedure is similar if you are using a Mac.

Gene, your shots are excellent, thanks for sharing. Like you, I love to shoot panos. The following is a 9 shot pano shot at 85mm (portrait) and stitched in Lightroom. In this case I preferred a 2 shot pano shot later at 35mm because I could get in the reflections from the water in the foreground without having to do two rows (I'm lazy!).

9 Portrait shots at 85mm

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2 Lanscape shots at 35mm

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You are correct, it is a two frame panorama shot 2.5 second exposure, f6.3, ISO 160 using a Nikon 16-35mm f4 lens set at 35mm on a full frame body. The pano was stitched in Lightroom. There was a lot of overlap on the shots and I tried making a single shot using about 20mm but didn’t like it as much.

Thanks to all for your compliments I’m glad you liked the shots. For number one, I played around with timing and exposure trying to get that blue hour definition in the sky. To me, that looked better than those with just a black sky. By the time I got to the bridge it was almost dark and almost completely cloud covered, so blue hour was gone!

Sorry, forgot to "add attachment"!

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I downloaded the first photo and ran it through Topaz Denoise and Sharpen with the following results. I think the noise was significantly improved but YMMV. If you like the result the programs can be had for about $100, a lot less than a new camera!

I've been visiting Vancouver and decided to try my luck at some night shots of the city. Here are a couple for your perusal, c & c welcomed! Download recommended.

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Best way to avoid dust on the sensor is to make sure the camera is off when changing lenses. When the sensor is energized it has a static charge that attracts dust. That said, it's still best not to change lenses in adverse conditions.

I had the Z7 and FTZ for all of 3 weeks and just did not like it, so sent it back within the vendor's 30 day return window. Bought the D850 and am happy with it. I think the D850 has superior focusing as my hit rate is way better than I got with the Z7. YMMV.

Pentax makes a very good camera and fine optics. IMHO every bit as good as Nikon, Canon and Sony. Although I'm predominantly a Nikon user, I have a Pentax K1 and while it cost just a bit over half what I paid for my D810, it's image quality is just as good, again, my opinion. Pentax also has IBIS in traditional DSLR bodies, a huge advantage as there are a plethora of excellent legacy K mount lenses available at low cost. Enjoy your Pentax, safe in the knowledge that you are right up there with the big boy equivalents!

An important, and often overlooked, aspect of modern lens performance is how well the image stabilization works. Since most people shoot handheld, good optical stabilization on cameras with no in body stabilization is extremely important to get good results. Whilst many Sigma lenses rate well for image quality in tests, these tests are usually conducted in lab conditions on tripods and do not evaluate the IS quality. I have heard that Sigma lenses suffer from below average IS when compared to Nikon, Canon and Tamron, possibly the reason for your lack of sharpness. Vignetting is pretty common with superzooms and easily corrected in post processing, but an unsharp image has no cure! You might be better served by the Nikon 18-300 VRII, it's decent optically and has excellent IS. I have extensive experience with it's cousin, the Nikon 28-300mm lens on full frame bodies, and, whilst not the absolute sharpest optically, has great IS and is a very versatile travel lens. I've made 24 x 36" prints from images made with that lens and they look stunning!

I have a Pentax K1 FF camera and because it has in body image stabilization, it works very well with older Pentax lenses which are plentiful and inexpensive on the used market. Pentax also has a range of modern DA lenses for the K-S2. I would rate the optical quality on par with the big boys. The Pentax forum: www.pentaxforums.com has a wealth of information on lenses, I highly recommend you take a look. I shoot both Nikon and Pentax and find them both to produce outstanding results!

Personally, if I had to take just one, it would be the 16-80mm. You will want to capture the magnitude of the canyon and need a wider field of view than the 70-300. On the other hand if you are trying to shoot birds and bears, the 70-300 is the way to go!

You have a fine lens, wish I had one! I've been using the 24-85 VR which also works well, but would love the extra reach of the 24-120. BTW I realized I did shoot the similar pano at 73 mm and stitched 3 frames with the following result.

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Firstly, which version of the 24-120 do you have? The new 24-120 F4 VR is a wonderful lens, the older 24-120 F3.5-5.6 is one of Nikon's worst lenses! The older version is lousy for landscapes, just not sharp enough for my liking. If you have the newer version, I think it will be fine for landscapes, if not wide enough, just shoot a pano set and stitch. If you really want wide for special effects, I'd recommend the Nikon 16-35 F4 VR, I have one and it is excellent. The attached photo is a pano made from 3 frames, hand held and shot at 28mm on a full frame Pentax K1 using a 28-105mm lens (download for best view). To eliminate excessive foreground, I'll shoot at 50-70mm and stitch, probably what I should have done for my example!

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Was having lunch at a local eatery when this fellow decided to investigate! We beat a hasty retreat, but I did fire off a couple of shots from a safe distance just before he ambled off. Quality could be better, the light was harsh and these are heavily cropped. Shot with a Nikon D810 with 28-300mm VR lens at 300mm. Please download for best results.

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