Should be in here somewhere:

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/photoshop-cs5-allinone-for-dummies-cheat-sheet.html

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/adobe-cs5-design-premium-allinone-for-dummies-chea.html

http://www.howtogeek.com/56487/download-the-how-to-geek-photoshop-cs5-cheat-sheet/

http://www.howtogeek.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/HTG-Cheatsheet-Photoshop-CS5.pdf

I believe that there is already software that will do this if you shoot with a small aperture and have no DOF in your image. Of course I am only 1/4 cup of coffee into my morning, but I was recently reading about this. I'll have to produce the evidence I'm sure.

If there were clouds, then there ya go. I've had some (what I believe is called) banding in my images. Back off on some of the adjustment parameters (for which I cannot remember which at the moment, plus I don't know what sync is). Try a do over and tone down some (perhaps contrast/saturation) settings.

I saw that comment. I know Picasa has a lot of features for free and does well with them, but I don't agree that it's the be all and end all software.

You've done well.

Try either the FastStone Image Viewer or Photo Resizer. Both free!

I believe that it won't dictate a proper exposure but it will help not to clip the shadows and highlights.

It seems as though the moon is an easy target. How does Earth not get plastered like that?

I agree that it's a great deal. It's what it's designed for, therefore a little more intuitive than perhaps using other apps, although, it can be done in Photoshop. I Googled Portrait Editing Software and the majority of results were for PP. So, that just goes to show that they've currently cornered the market with their software.

However, take a look at these tuts and see if they interest you. Photoshop can be quite versatile and obviously you can do other things as well with it.

http://www.1stwebdesigner.com/tutorials/amazing-retouching-tutorials-in-photoshop/

Then after typing and submitting my response, I realized that I had searched the wrong term: portrait editing. It should have been retouching software. I apologize.

http://www.arcsoft.com/topics/photo-editor/how-to-beautify-photo-face.html

http://www.imagenomic.com/pt.aspx

http://www.colorpilot.com/retouch_software.html

http://powerretouche.com/

to name a few . . .

From you image above, it appears as though not only is the image offset, but the preview pane as well. I can just barely see the little hash marks on the adjustment bar below your image.

Try nikod7's idea. I tried to recreate you problem but cannot move an image to that position. Whenever I try, it moves smoothly and stays centered no matter how small or large I make it.

Although, nikod7, I had mine open and it looked like plieber's view in his post, only I had my image centered. I think his image is in the content view, just oddly over to the right. Where would it be otherwise?

Also, if it's an anomaly, try this:
Press and hold the Ctrl key while starting Adobe Bridge.
In the Reset Settings dialog box, select
Reset Standard Workspaces Returns all workspaces to their factory default configurations.
Click OK.

Of course, I don't know if it is your situation, but it can't hurt.

I like my t2i very much. Only $650 w/ kit lens at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-T2i-Processor-Body-Only/dp/B0035FZJI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332159237&sr=8-1

Plus, when you shoot in RAW and edit them in DPP you can change the style within the software to see what it looks like. If only shooting in RAW, then always shoot in Standard and you can change it afterwards.

I would say it is a personal choice. Like white balance, you can make the scene tones and colors different if you are choosing to go that way. Also, you can create your own Picture Styles using the custom functions.

I trust my histogram to realize the lighting of the scene. As well, some people's may "see" a scene differently than others. The histogram is a tool to assist us in getting the proper exposure.

I did a test to follow up on my previous reply regarding the use of the histogram in shooting a scene.

Set the histogram so the vertical "bars" (which is what the histogram is made up of) don't touch (much anyway) the left and right edges (shadows and highlights respectively).

There should be a rounded mound spreading throughout the middle of the graph. If not, then at least most of this area should have the "bars".

Depending on the scene there could be broken parts where there are hills and valleys due to highly contrasting areas (dark and light intermingling within the same area).

Note the links (I posted above) for more foridable explanations than this amateur can provide.

Maybe . . . but it's basically the same thing here. You can use the software for a logo or watermark.

I don't know about LR, but Photoshop does it with layers very well, or even a brush. I just suggested the smaller sized softwares for the quick and easy (and free :) ) way.