How do you set your auto focus for hummers? I've found my 80D constantly picks something in front of the subject unless I use just the center spot.

I recently shot a staged home for "practice", and not having some of the equipment mentioned (i.e. multiple remote strobes), I took another approach, which took more time, but I came up with some good images (not an original approach, one I found from a real estate photographer). I setup over-kill bracketing (5 shots - he used 3) and used only natural light coming in through windows, and in some rooms, installed light fixtures. I tried to expose for the "middle" of the available light, but did not use a light meter.

I used LR to merge them and apply lens correction, and then tweaked the verticals and horizontals to get the perspective right and add adjustments. The resulting images came out very nice, including picking up the landscaping visible through windows and patio doors and making the home feel warm and welcoming. One more step I would take in the future is to tweak the white balance to get the finals a bit more consistent. I'll try to dig up some examples later.

My gear was an 80D on a tri-pod at chest height and leveled, which did not change going from room to room and one speedlight which I used for a couple of walk-in closets for bounced light. Lens was an ES 10-18, mostly left at 10. I played with both f9 and f11, both worked, f9 would probably be my go-to if I do it again.

If I were to start doing this for pay, I would add remote fired strobes and diffusers to my equipment list, at least two, but I could have made use of three for a couple of rooms.

I would also try to do a better job of setting initial exposures and drop to 3 bracketed shots, setup a few presets in LR to speed up post-processing and try to find more ways to automate post and exporting.

As stated above, setup everything in advance. Anything that makes the camera "think" will delay the shutter.

Yes. The boot drive is 256gb and hold the OS and applications that I want fast loading times for (Adobe). I also have a 1TB data drive (that's turning out to be too small!).

The SSD makes for a huge difference in responsiveness over my last laptop.

I found this out when playing with alternative operating systems. My boot drive is an ssd which is pretty fast so i just shut it off as described in the article

Not so much ignored, but not displayed. The higher DPI file will be larger and slower to download. It's not as noticeable with today's high speed internet, but still important for optimization of a page with a lot of images or web hosting accounts with limited storage.

I just had a similar "Moment". When import showed me all of the images on the card, they were all grayed out...at least the thumbnails that were visible....scrolled down to find the images that had not yet been imported from the card were not. Normally, I format my card right after an import, but hadn't for some reason on this one. Threw me off for a second....

If the images are to be viewed primarily on the 27" monitor, I would optimize for that. If they are to be part of the church web site, which will more likely be accessed by a mobile device and any range of desktop monitors, optimize for the web site design or "theme". If the website theme or template is responsive, some will let you specify different images for different devices.

When optimizing for a web site, 72dpi was the "standard" for years as it was all monitors could display. One would set the dimensions for the size(s) needed for the site design. It was all about keeping size to an absolute minimum. When the Retina display came out, the go-to number became 150dpi per Apples recommendation.

If the monitor is the primary target, then optimize for it's aspect ratio and resolution (long side) and see if you can find anything about dpi in the specs for it.

It sounds like you may end up with two exports...one for the web and one for the monitor, which can be automated. If the web designer has the tools, share the RAW files and let him resize for the web site. When I'm designing sites or printed materials, I ALWAYS want the biggest and closest to original file I can get.

I'm very sorry to have disappointing you with my title. Hope it didn't ruin your day.

So I went to a coin kiosk and turned my spare change into an Amazon gift card rather than pay the 12% commission for a cash voucher. I decided I wanted to add something, preferably fun, but also useful to my camera bag.

My camera is an 80D. I've got a 430 EX II speedlight, 18-135 kit lens, EF-S 10-18mm and an EF-S 55-250. I also have a pluto trigger, but not the water drop kit as of yet.

The first things that came to mind was to put it toward a remote flash trigger setup or maybe a Wacom tablet for post processing. Whatever it is has to be compact as I'm still moving around a bit with no permanent address since Irma came through.

Ideas?

Thanks,
-Ed

I'm using the software that came with the device (HP OfficeJet Pro). The software automatically crops the individual photos and does a pretty good job of it actually. When saved, the individual photos are stored as a multi-page TIFF file. Photoshop only displays the first image or page in the stack unless there is something I missed there. The PaintShop Pro method is working pretty well for now. The good TIFF splitters I've found are in the $30 range, which is a bit steep for that single function (at least to me).

Update: One of my old stand-byes, IrfanView does this pretty well. Problem solved for now, but any other tips for scanning large quantities of prints efficiently are welcome.

I hadn't thought about Bridge...I don't currently use it, but have access to it in my subscription. I found a temporary fix...Paint Shop Pro opens each image in a tab, which I can "Save As" from, but it's tedious.

I can also load them into Acrobat, and then split them, but that is even more tedious.

I've been looking online and haven't found a solution to this yet, so I thought perhaps a fellow hogger might have an idea of how to get HP's scanning software to split photos scanned as TIF files into separate files. If you scan to JPG it will output individual files for each photo identified. Scanning to TIF yields a multi-page TIF file that I'm having trouble splitting. I want to do some post processing on these, so JPG is not the ideal format to work with.

Thanks in advance for any clues,

-Ed G.

There is a JerryG from PA in the member directory that mentions news reporting in his profile. This may be his profile if you're interested in reading the threads he was participating in: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user-profile?usernum=3097

Again, very sorry for your loss.