That's a lot of birds, lol. Really like the silhouette, well done.

Nice series Sue, well done.

Thank you Sue, I appreciate it and I'm glad you liked it.

And to you and yours too Sunny...

Thanks for the thumbs up PP, I'm glad you liked them.

Thanks Judy, I appreciate it. You're right they can be tough to catch and get something other than their tail end flying away from you.

Another week come and gone, FS already. Some very nice pics thus far, I'm still culling and processing images from over the summer. Here are a few of my humble contributions, this time it's the Jays...

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Hey PB,

In comparing specs if the loss of the second card slot isn't a big deal to you and the D7500's $350 higher price tag (body only) it has a higher frame rate, higher native ISO range, addition of group AF, latest Expeed 5 vs. Expeed 4 processing engine and a deeper buffer.

They share the same number of focus points (51, 15 cross type), the 7200 has the sync speed advantage for flash at 1/320th vs. 1/250th and 24 MP vs. 20+MP (you'd be hard pressed to see the difference here, personally I don't get hung up on megapixels), rear monitor 1.23 million dots vs. the D7500's .922 million dots and better average battery life (1,100 vs. 950 shots), along with more custom settings available (54 vs. 41) than the D7500.

Either way it still boils down to needs and money, your choice. For me I'd go with the D7200 and put the extra $350 towards some good glass. Good luck and happy shooting.

Since you have a fairly large range covered for good light situations outdoors or indoors with flash, I'd point you towards a fast prime for low light without flash situations, 35mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.8 or either of the 60mm or 105mm f/2.8 macro lenses, which ever way you go, good luck and happy shooting...

If you're looking to stay with OEM, Nikon SB700 or SB910

Do they offer a trial version to do a comparison?

The older software I'd used years ago just duplicated the frame 30 times (or so it would appear on the time line) but, I suppose newer packages would use a time line to hold the image for the 1 second duration and not show the additional images as visual que of the video to be out put, we'd used it for creating presentations from clients supplied stills, with underlying sound and text that was later out put to .mov or .avi format.

It's a bit more involved that just taking a series of images. Using the two hour 1 frame per minute example already given.

2 hrs = 120 minutes, 30 frames per second for video, one image every minute would equate to 120 images/30 frames per second = 4 second time lapse video if you only stitched together the images taken. To extend that play time (in order to actually make it view able) would require duplicating each image 29 times for a total of 30 instances of the same image for that to equal 1 second of video, so using that metric you'd have 120 images x 30 copies of each = 3600 images stitched together for a video duration of 120 seconds or two minutes of video.

You'll take your images into a video compiler software package to actually generate the video footage in what ever output formats (.mov, .avi) it supports; make sense? So you'd take in your first image place it on the time line, duplicate it 29 times along the time line then add the next image duplicate it 29 times and so on until you'd used up all the images you generated for your time lapse project.

To slow the time lapse thus extending the viewing time would require more copies of each image at 30 copies per second of video. Hope this helps you wrap your head around it, good luck and happy shooting.

Perhaps you've never pushed them in to lock them...

If referring to the images themselves and not the card lock, select them and unlock them at which point you can now delete them from the card either individually or via formatting in the camera.