Congrats!! lets see what it can do!
I have the 150 2.8 macro and I love it. Built good but a little on the heavy side.
I was taught to raise the black to 10 and drop the white down 10 and leave the gray alone. this is a good starting point and you can tweak if needed.
Go to QRZ.com and do the call sign search.
Hope that helps
Mike KF8ZK
I have the Manfrotto 322 something or another, it is a pistol grip, fast but I don't think it could handle the weight.
Check out this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTVfFmENgPU
you may have to copy and paste.
Some say expose to the right and some say under-expose. I read an article that made a very good case for ETTR and that is what I try to do. I seem to be getting good results but they all need some PP work to take full advantage of the ETTR method.
What Bioteacher said is correct! A CP is what you need most and you should get the best you can afford. I use a B&W F-Pro (>$150)it is a (kasseman) type, I know the spelling is incorrect. Get a large one and use stepping rings to fit your current lens assortment and when you get a larger lens, it will still work for you (don't ask me how I know this) As far as ND's and Variable ND's get the best you can afford as well, mine are Lee but they are expensive and hard to get but they don't leave any color casts as some of the cheaper ones are reported to. (at least to my amateur eyes). All other needs should be satisfied with PP software.
Take a look at the "Black Foamy Thing" on Neil Niekirk's site. Some good info there. I made one for about $2.50 and am very impressed.
That depends, are you going to sell it to me? I have been saving for that lens for quite some time and soon will have enough dough to start looking for the best deal. Keep it!
In the past, I have used the camera on bulb in a dark room to capture balloons bursting with a sound trigger to fire the strobe which had a duration of 1/10000sec. This would not work very well with pouring wine though.
Like 35mm film, You should treat batteries like a "Snickers bar"