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Posts for: Steve Perry
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Jul 1, 2019 19:17:55   #
Old Frank wrote:
But for a stationary subject you only press the AF=on button once. Then you have time to compose. Does the VR stay on anyway?


As long as you have a half-press on the shutter release it will.
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Jul 1, 2019 17:33:30   #
Old Frank wrote:
Do these BBF changes affect the VR capabilities?


Nope, works the same on the D7500 and most modern Nikons.*

(*On older Nikons, you still had to half-press the shutter release to activate - the D7500 will active VR with the AF-On button).
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Jun 29, 2019 07:31:13   #
The video everyone is referencing is here:

https://backcountrygallery.com/all-about-teleconverters-tcs/

The thing is, as I indicate in the video, the performance and benefit of a TC depends on quite a few variables - the quality of the TC, the primary lens in front of it, and the magnification factor.

This means that in some cases, a TC can work brilliantly and in others it will disappoint. People tend to look for easy, yes/no or good/bad answers, but the truth is there are a lot of variables in play with TCs. No one simple yes / no answer will apply to every situation.
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Jun 25, 2019 19:00:40   #
bleirer wrote:
Very informative video, thanks! One question though, my mirrorless Canon says it will auto focus to f11, so in theory I could use a 2x with the 100-400 f4-5.6 almost to the max. In practice?


In practice, I sure wouldn't want to use that combo :) F/11 is pretty bad (for many of my subjects, ISO would be through the roof - and subject isolation would be non-existent), but I also think IQ would suffer with a 2X behind a zoom lens. However, without a full test I can't say for sure - just seems like a bad idea.
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Jun 25, 2019 11:00:03   #
Dr.Nikon wrote:
Thnx Steve .. nice article .. with my D800E..D810 and my now D850 ... I have found cropping works just fine ... ,but even Regis uses a teleconverter with his 51 megapixel Canon to make his reach 800mm ..and it certainly works well for him ...

For me it is just an added $500 and an extra pc of glass ...


One thing I didn't mention in the video is that you do tend to get a little better subject isolation when using the TC than with cropping. With the TC, you have a longer lens, slightly shallower DoF (even with the smaller max opening), and more background magnification. That's my main reason for using them on the D850 - I love subject isolation in my wildlife shots and TCs work better than cropping to get it :)
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Jun 25, 2019 10:14:05   #
I just uploaded a new video all about teleconverters. What they do, how they work, negative and positive impacts, how to use them, it's all there. Check it out:

https://backcountrygallery.com/all-about-teleconverters-tcs/
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Jun 17, 2019 09:37:00   #
Honestly, there's nothing in that image that I would consider sharp when looking at it at 100%. I almost wonder if there was a touch of moment during the exposure.
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Jun 16, 2019 10:30:12   #
RE: Dust

My Z7 does see more dust than the DSLRs - most because the sensor is always exposed when changing lenses (too bad it doesn't drop the shutter curtain when the lens is dismounted or something). However, the sensor is also way easier to clean and most of the time just a few quick blasts from a Rocket Blower is all you need. I have a few reasons why I don't like the Z, but dust isn't one of them.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:30:24   #
Summitridge wrote:
Thanks. I have not heard these things as of yet. I have a D800 and D810. Will keep the 810. Trying for a lighter load as I have had two shoulder surgeries. I am waffling between the D 850 and the Z 7. I like the 9 fpm for the Z 7. I also have a D 500 for fast shooting, but low light is a big problem. Do a lot of animals in motion.


Easy - D850 :)

If you're doing action, the D850 absolutely kills the Z7. I own both and have shot them side by side in action scenarios and the Z7 just can't keep up. Don't get me wrong, you can get action shots with the Z7, you'll just get a heck of a lot more of them with the D850.

Also, the "real" frame rate of the Z7 is 5.5 FPS - anything above that and you lose the live feed in the EVF and get a slide show of your images instead. This makes tracking a subject and keeping an AF point where you want it incredibly difficult.
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Jun 13, 2019 08:44:59   #
Rick Iram wrote:
Hi Steve,
I tried to purchase your book yesterday, but all I got was several PayPal receipts that look as if I paid for 3 or 4 copies. I was unable to find a way to contact the site. There is no sign of the "form below". Can you help? Thanks.


No worries, we'll get it sorted out - I'll send you a PM
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Jun 4, 2019 19:19:40   #
Desmogger wrote:
Looking a some Gimbal Heads for my old Bogen tripod WH-200 is $595 plus $50 plate
Anyone use the Manfrotto Heavy Telephoto Lens Support with Quick Release Adapter and Plate its Less than $200 bucks


We've had people bring them on our workshops. They'r not bad, but I wouldn't choose one over the WH-200. They work, but the WH-200 just seems to work better in a fast paced scenario, at least from what I've observed.

Also, remember that tripods and heads cost a LOT more when you buy -> discover you need something better -> buy again -> discover you need something better -> and finally buy the right head / legs that you wanted at the start :)
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Jun 2, 2019 09:37:01   #
In-lightened wrote:
Steve...I have your e-book Secrets to Exposure and Metering and have learned a lot. My question is about reflectance and changing background as subject flies by. I have run into issues where the meter was fooled such as bird took off and flew through some trees in the background then hit the sky. Or water reflectance. Did I have something set incorrectly? Do you have some guidelines of times when Auto ISO doesn't work?


Thanks!

M + Auto ISO works best when the reflectance doesn't change :)

For a situation like you describe, I just set everything manually. As long as the subject is in the same light, it works fine and you'll get far more consistent results. See page 463 (manual mode section) of the exposure book for a longer explanation.

Now, if you have variation in both reflectance and light levels, it's a different story and much more difficult to cope with - that part is covered in the Advanced Exposure Techniques of the book, page 544.
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Jun 1, 2019 22:55:08   #
The only way to fly in my opinion:

https://backcountrygallery.com/manual-mode-with-auto-iso/

All of these were taken with the method described in the video:

https://backcountrygallery.com/wildlife-action-shots/
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May 31, 2019 10:10:37   #
SoftLights wrote:
In addition to displaying the Do Not Disturb sign with a small strip of gaf tap to secure it I'll sometimes put an index card with "Day Sleeper" next to the Do Not Disturb sign. I still check to see that it's where I put it when I return.


Great idea!!
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May 30, 2019 13:52:44   #
IR Jim wrote:
I frequently stay in hotels. When I leave my camera in the room I hang the Do Not Disturb sign. The hangers sometimes come off the door so I recommend closing the door on the bottom corner of the sign. Works especially well if your door is outside.


+1

It's also not a bad idea to leave the TV on as well, makes it sound like someone's home.
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