Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: RRS
Page: <<prev 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... 293 next>>
Jun 26, 2019 12:01:45   #
billnikon wrote:
Nothing will convince me.IF IT'S NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT.


So true! Drag racing, your car ain't broken and is running great but I'll spend the extra time and fine tune mine and will blow you away! It may only be as much as 1/100 of a sec, but there can be a slight difference. Some people are not technically capable of doing such procedures and as has been said could screw it all up and not even know how to get back to square one, so yes leave it alone. The same thing is true for cleaning the camera sensor, some can and do and others should leave it up to the professionals. You said it all when you make the statement" Nothing will convince me". I try to always keep an open mind.
Go to
Jun 26, 2019 11:41:02   #
RichardSM wrote:
I don’t consider Canon L lens as mediocre. If you wish to take the time to calibrate you Lens go for it! I’d rather be out taking pictures.


I bought a brand new Canon 300mm f/2.8 and bought it for the fast lens and low light capability but much to my dismay the image was soft and I was shooting off a tripod. I sent it and a 7DMK2 to CPS and got it back saying that both the camera and lens were within specs. I'd bet that today , now out of warranty, that it would need an alignment. I bought Lens Alignment with the long ruler and now it works so much better. Just returned from Yellowstone and was shooting Red-tailed hawks across a canyon with a different body then I normally shoot with and noticed that it was front focusing. Checked and the menu showed a +3, being very familiar with the process I took the alignment to +6 and the shot was now dead on. I'll now take the time on the shooting range (camera) that I have set up here ay my house and recheck that combo. Point in case, I got the shot. I was shooting the 600mm f/4.0 on this shot. Once you understand how simple all of this is, at least to me, I do what ever it takes. If this is not needed then why do the camera manufactures include (Nikon) Fine Tune and (Canon) Micro-adjust with all of their higher end cameras. As TriX has said, if your shooting at a smaller aperture then wide open you most likely will never see any problem, however if shooting wide open at least my experience with long prime lenses if not right on you will not get the best your camera/lens is capable of producing. If you have an open mind at least a test could be done, if no difference is seen then you were right at least with your set-up, if you seem to have a problem as has been said all you have to do is to reset to "0" and you are right back to where you started. All of this reminds me of the Straight out of camera concept, if it works for you ,great, but for me PP is half the fun of this fine "sport". Each to their own, have fun!
Go to
Jun 13, 2019 12:30:11   #
dick ranez wrote:
with the wire mesh headlight guards, this is the first year of corvette - 54 or 55 i think.


"53" first year.
Go to
Jun 12, 2019 15:57:26   #
djlouden wrote:
ggab: thanks... I've checked on that deal but it's a Canadian seller. I worry about getting refused service from Canon at some point should I have a need. There is another deal for 4999 from a US seller including the 13 month Canon Warranty pack.

TriX: Thanks for the info. It's costly.... I'm thinking ahead to my retirement and that I'll have a camera that does everything I need without the need for buying the next hyped latest and greatest. You have a good collection of good gear too.


Have you looked at Greentoe?
Go to
Jun 12, 2019 12:48:16   #
Bill_de wrote:
Artie got mad at Canon right after they dumped him. First they excluded him from the Explorers of Light status. He had a friend at Canon that kept feeding him some work, but it didn't last.

How do I know this? Artie posted it in his blog when it all went down.

---


I saw the same thing too.
Go to
Jun 12, 2019 12:38:02   #
Nalu wrote:
I met Chris Dodds a last summer on a Atlantic puffin trip. My gear at the time was a 5DIV, 1DX, 400mm DOII and 600mm f/4. Most of the other attendees on the trip were shooting A9's with the 100-400 gm. I got some great Puffin flight shots over three days of shooting, but my keeper rate (those in focus) sucked compared to the keeper rates of those with the A9. I am definitely not the best fight photographer, but I'm not too bad either. I don't have my big Canon glass any longer which has been replaced by the a9, the 100-400 GM and the 400mm 2.8. And now, I learned last night that Sony is offering a 600mm f/4 and a 200/600mm zoom. Better focusing capabilities that the (any) Canon gear and faster frame rate. One of the complaints some have had about the Sony system for sports and wildlife is the lack of glass. That is no longer the case.

Dodds was also a Canon representative (like Morris) but dumped all his Canon gear for Sony. Why, its just better than Canon for his work (flight photography). Morris dropped Canon for whatever reason, went to Nikon, and now is experimenting with Sony.

I know the difficulty of parting with the investment in glass. I went thru it. But will I get more puffin shots with fish in their mouths flying right at me this summer. I know the answer is YES.

And PS: I am seeing no issues as far as focus speed and IQ with both the 1.4 and 2X expenders with the A9. The A7RIII definitely has focusing issues with the 100-400 gm plus 2X extender, but works well with the 400mm 2.8 plus 2x. The IQ of the 400mm 2.8 plus 2X is very very close to the 600mm Canon plus 1.4x.

Sorry for putting any splash on the 1DXII goals, but I just couldn't resist.
I met Chris Dodds a last summer on a Atlantic puff... (show quote)


Sorry to "splash" on your report too but for what it's worth Tony Northrup just put out a video on the A9 being used with the new Sony 600mm F/4.0 and there are problems. Glad to see the 600 and the 200-600 but there's a trade off to be made if the main uses will be wildlife/BIF however great for other applications like portraiture if the bodies don't lock up.

The 1DX2 is a good camera but I for one don't care for the C Fast card slot, wish it had retained the same configuration as the 1DX as to memory slots. I also have the 7DMK2 but don't use it to much any more even with the crop factor. I use the 1.4 and 2X almost all the time with the 300F/2.8 and the 600mm F/4.0. The high ISO capabilities of the 1DX2 blows away the 7DMK2 even with all the advances on noise with AI. I too have too much invested in Canon glass to make the change at this time. I feel that most of the changes in the 1DX2 over the 1DX mainly benefitted video. How long has the story of the 7DMK3 been out there, so many still waiting but latest rumor now out is that the 7 series is done. Look up Greentoe and see what you can get the 1DX2 for, I'm thinking about buying a second one.
Go to
Jun 12, 2019 12:10:04   #
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
If you have the need and the money then I say go for it. I will have had mine for 3 years in October. I spent a few months looking at options before buying. I could have had a 5D4 and 7D2 for the same money at the time. But the 5D4 was just coming out at the time. I prefer the rugged build and built in grip of the 1 series. I prefer one camera to several and a few great lenses. I feel the MkII is the best all around camera that Canon makes if you need high speed and high ISO capability. It can shoot anything from drag racing to portraits. I have no regrets. If a better body comes out you can decide if you want to trade up. Meanwhile enjoy it today for what it offers.

Check out Mark Rebilas on web and Facebook and you can see the kind of action shooting he does with Canon gear. Jeff Cable also. Arthur Morris for birding. Interestingly enough he uses a MkII but I believe dumped his 7D2s for a pair of 5Dsr bodies. Doesn't seem like a birders body but he seems to like them...
If you have the need and the money then I say go f... (show quote)


I thought Arthur Morris dumped all his Canon gear and went with Nikon.
Go to
Jun 8, 2019 10:00:33   #
a6k wrote:
I took a picture recently that really A] is not very good and B] contains some difficult areas of exposure. Since fooling around (AKA experimenting) with post processing is, for me, educational and potentially useful, I...

1] used Raw Photo Processor 64 (RPP64), a Mac-only raw developer that has some interesting features to save the raw file as an untagged 32-bit tiff. A screen capture of that, displayed via Mac's Preview app, is attached.

2. opened the original raw file in RawDigger and took a screen capture of both the image view and the histogram view. That's also attached.

3. displayed the original, the untagged tiff and a tagged tiff (both tiff's are from RPP64) in Fast RawViewer. A screen capture of that is attached.

4. opened the original in Luminar, used the recommended "develop" adjustments and exported to a jpg. The screen capture of that is attached. I also included a screen capture of how the original looks when opened in Luminar before any adjustments.

Note that the image contains some very dark areas and some blown areas and RawDigger makes that obvious. Also note, however, that the tiff from RPP64 shows that except for the extreme, blown areas, the picture contains much more useful content than one would suspect. All the detail in the black cat's fur is there. The area on the gray cat's back that shows as blown is not.

The thumbnail view in FRV shows the untagged tiff correctly but the larger version applies a different viewing method.

The jpg from Luminar demonstrates that the useful shadow and highlight content can be preserved and exported fairly easily.

Lessons learned:
* Even a picture with some difficult-to-use areas may have better detail than it first appears.
* The way the tools work varies a lot and it can be worthwhile to learn what they do
* The underexposed areas are much more useful than is obvious at first.
* The overexposed areas are not as bad as it first appears; RawDigger shows that only the green channel is maxed out. I did not try to fix those but it would be relatively easy to lower just the green channels and proceed from there.
* It's worth shooting raw images at least in cases where the initial results are crappy.
I took a picture recently that really A is not ve... (show quote)


Very interesting, DR has come a long way along with much improved software for post processing. Today we can't be too quick to throw out an image, so much can be done. It's a good self help to shoot an image with extreme lighting and to explore what you can see if you really try. Thanks for post.
Go to
Jun 7, 2019 10:35:20   #
joer wrote:
I know most of the men here and probably some women have back problems...I do.

Standing behind a tripod or sitting without proper support is uncomfortable even after only a short time. So I got this idea and tried it...its like I've died and gone to heaven.

Its tricky getting in and out but its manageable and I feel so good sitting in it.
I know most of the men here and probably some wome... (show quote)


Very nice! I use the Manfrotto fluid head 504HD but run the handle on the left side facing away from me and I've cut some off to shorten it. I use a very similar set up for shooting humming birds. Getting up is the hard part!
Go to
Jun 5, 2019 18:11:26   #
selmslie wrote:
Not exactly. I would rather think of it as not erring at all.

If you see blinkies (where you don't want them), back off by reducing the exposure or the ISO until they go away.

Expose normally - neither overexpose nor underexpose. You may end up with a decent looking JPEG that can be improved when you develop from raw.

An extra 1/3 or 2/3 stop is not going to provide any visible benefit.

It takes very little testing to learn how your camera behaves. It is not rocket science.
Not exactly. I would rather think of it as not er... (show quote)


I'd like to thank you for all the time and effort you have put forth. An eye opener on fine tuning your exposure!
Go to
Jun 5, 2019 17:45:30   #
raymondh wrote:
I'm fairly certain that I moved the focusing pt when I changed to vertical since my goal was to catch her facial expressions. It would also be a rare occurrence for me not to be holding my BBF button down while shooting.


That's the problem, using the BBF button if in the vertical position if you have set the focus off-set. Go to the menu and go to the purple section, fourth bar and look as to how or what you have your camera set to. If set to the middle position the try looking through the viewfinder and you will see that the focus point is in the upper third of the viewfinder. Now push in on the BB and look and you will see that the focus point has now moved to the center position as in horizontal shooting. That would account for the DPP focus point showing as on her face but in reality it was on her shirt. Try it.
Go to
Jun 5, 2019 11:42:24   #
Grahame wrote:
I'm not familiar with the ops Canon but reading up on what you mention I would have suspected that if the camera on changing orientation had automatically chosen a different 'focus point' OR 'focus point selection method' that would have been indicated in the viewfinder.


You are right, the focusing point does change automatically as you change from horizontal to vertical, if you have chosen that option in the menu. If you are using BBF things change! When you go vertical and use BBF the focusing point you see in the viewfinder will be centered if you haven't moved it but will show up in DPP as off set. The ability of the offset focusing from vertical to horizontal only seems to work when you are not using BBF. So if the OP had set up the offset focusing and used BBF the focus would have actually been on the center of the shirt, as it would show in the viewfinder, but would show up in DPP as being on her face. I've checked this out on a 7DMK2. This offset option only seems to work when using the shutter button but not in BBF.
Go to
Jun 5, 2019 10:35:40   #
bleirer wrote:
I was just using DPP and noticed in the menu on the bottom around the middle you can choose "show all auto focus points" or "only show in focus auto focus points" It would be worth checking if the camera had acquired focus before shooting. With BBF it is possible to acquire focus, release the bbf button, the subject moves or leans a little, take the shot, and with narrow DOF it is a little out.


While using BBF, for Canon , the focus point will show in DPP if you are in fact holding the button down when actually shooting. If your subject isn't moving and you release the BB, prior to taking the shot, no focus point will show when you check with DPP.
Go to
Jun 5, 2019 01:22:14   #
Grahame wrote:
As already mentioned DoF does not change due to camera rotation IF camera to subject distance remains the same.

Now I'll throw another 'possibility' in. When we change camera orientation when shooting people (subject distance remaining the same) we often change focus point and there are reported instances of certain cameras near/back focusing differently between selected points.


There's a new twist, in the purple menu fourth bar (orientation linked AF point) how does the OP have this set up. You can set different focus points for vertical and horizontal. Even though the camera was in the portrait (vertical) position I have to wonder if this was an overlooked problem.
Go to
Jun 4, 2019 10:27:09   #
will47 wrote:
I just checked and the sharpness in camera and it was 5. I turned it to 0. I'll see what happens tomorrow. Thanks! Normally after a day of shooting I download to the computer and process in PS CC. This processing includes sharpening so it was getting sharpened in camera and by me in PP. I use Hi Pass sharpening, which normally (for other subjects) worls well for me.


Have you tried the "Unsharp Mask" under sharpen? Different subjects will sometimes require different means of sharpening.
Go to
Page: <<prev 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... 293 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.