Focus Issue
May 31, 2019 13:57:52 #
First time I've run across this: While shooting in portrait orientation, the point where focus achievement was indicated was not affected when sharpening was applied to the raw file. Other than cropping, image A says focus was on the face, but when sharpened (image B), sharpening was applied at the waist. This has never been an issue in normal landscape orientation. Is there a menu setting the will correct this?
Shooting details: Canon 7dII; 300mmf2.8 IS II; f2.8; sp 1000; AF mode AI focus AF.
Shooting details: Canon 7dII; 300mmf2.8 IS II; f2.8; sp 1000; AF mode AI focus AF.
May 31, 2019 14:01:29 #
raymondh wrote:
First time I've run across this: While shooting in... (show quote)
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It doesn't look like the focus was on the face in the first picture either.
May 31, 2019 14:07:41 #
The image is out of focus at the active AF point covering the player's face. That should be your concern. No amount of sharpening will address this issue, well excluding maybe some of the results I've seen from the Topaz AI tool. And even then, you just get an overly sharpened, originally out of focus result.
I would change from AI Focus AF to AI Servo where Canon's "AI Focus" does not appear to be responsive enough to your needs given the correct and active position of the AF point in this image. Working in AI Servo, both for static and dynamic subjects, causes the camera / lens combo to always evaluate and update the precise focus of the lens.
I would change from AI Focus AF to AI Servo where Canon's "AI Focus" does not appear to be responsive enough to your needs given the correct and active position of the AF point in this image. Working in AI Servo, both for static and dynamic subjects, causes the camera / lens combo to always evaluate and update the precise focus of the lens.
May 31, 2019 14:25:07 #
On Nikon cameras you have the option of shutter release Only when focused acquired at focus point selected. Even though the focus point is on the face does not mean a camera will not fire the shutter unless told other wise. Your camera simply was not focused at the focusing point when shutter fired. Or you need to select a continuous focusing mode so the camera continues to follow and focus as the subject moves. I'm guessing your camera has the same sort of set up as the Nikon.
May 31, 2019 14:42:20 #
It appears that the focus was on the word MacDonald's. Especially the "nal" letter. DOF is very shallow.
May 31, 2019 14:56:22 #
May 31, 2019 14:59:29 #
May 31, 2019 16:51:56 #
raymondh wrote:
This is the focus pt in the original file.
I can show you many photos I've taken where the area under the red square is not where I focused. This is because I panned slightly AFTER focusing on the desired area while focus was locked. I use 1 focus point only, focus on the desired point, lock, pan, shoot. The red square is meanigless to me because I can't tell on which photos I panned and which I didn't.
May 31, 2019 16:55:21 #
Perhaps your shutter speed was too slow to pick up the movement sharply. Just a guess. Also, pointing the focus point bit above the area you want can assure that things before and after it are sharp.
May 31, 2019 17:17:38 #
PHRubin wrote:
I can show you many photos I've taken where the area under the red square is not where I focused. This is because I panned slightly AFTER focusing on the desired area while focus was locked. I use 1 focus point only, focus on the desired point, lock, pan, shoot. The red square is meanigless to me because I can't tell on which photos I panned and which I didn't.
Apparently it is although I would point out that I probably took several dozen similar poses (bbf) in the portrait orientation mode and the camera was on a monopod. My previous experience shows that when I apply sharpening to an image the area under where focus was supposedly achieved is the most affected.
May 31, 2019 17:20:02 #
via the lens wrote:
Perhaps your shutter speed was too slow to pick up the movement sharply. Just a guess. Also, pointing the focus point bit above the area you want can assure that things before and after it are sharp.
Using 1/focal length, 1/500 would be an appropriate sp for a 300mm lens on a crop sensor body. I was at 1/1000.
May 31, 2019 17:35:52 #
mwsilvers
Loc: Central New Jersey
raymondh wrote:
First time I've run across this: While shooting in... (show quote)
The focus was very obviously on the t-shirt. Not sure why you were using AI Focus. Even though it's included on all Canon EOS cameras, it is generally recommended to use only AI Servo or One shot. On all of my Canon bodies I haven't used AI Focus for years. Its tries to combine Ai Servo and One Shot together but neither works optimally that way. Many consider it unreliable and inconsistent. Second, which of the Canon 7D Mark II's 7 focus modes were you using for this image, and did you inadvertently move the points so it focused on the t-shirt? Third, if you weren't using spot AF, single point, single point with 4, or 8 assist points then the camera may not focus exactly when you thought it should. If you were using Zone AF, Large Zone AF, or 65 point AF that could account for the focus not being where it should be. Are you very familiar with this camera's settings? It have a huge amount of flexibility, but a large learning curve to go with it.
May 31, 2019 22:01:24 #
mwsilvers wrote:
The focus was very obviously on the t-shirt. Not s... (show quote)
Exactly. Forget AI Focus and use AI Servo and as mentioned, single point, spot or 4/8 points (and focus on the eyes). Sounds as if your shutter speed is OK, but depending on the type of subject movement, pick the appropriate case in the menu setting.
Jun 1, 2019 07:18:17 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
raymondh wrote:
First time I've run across this: While shooting in... (show quote)
You will have to learn to focus on the eyes, then lock focus by pushing the appropriate button on your camera, then recompose your shot, and shoot.
Your problem is in shooting, not post.
Jun 1, 2019 07:20:04 #
I wonder why you were using f/2.8? My settings for this event, (assuming it was outdoor soccer) would have been, Shutter Priority with Shutter speed 800. This would allow the aperture to float, (I question why f/2.8 was necessary), aperture at 100 - 200 depending on amount of direct light, sunlight. You can see in the photos the background is nonexistent, this happens with f/2.8, unless that is the affect you were looking for.
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