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Dec 28, 2021 09:57:19   #
I just replaced two aging computers, and old Macbook Pro and a 27 inch iMac, with a new 14 inch Macbook Pro and a 27inch BenQ monitor. I would have followed Burkephoto's advice and gotten 8 GB of RAM, but I often work in Lightroom and Photoshop while concurrently running a Topaz AI program and compiling an image stack in Zerene. I was afraid that heavy usage might bog down the machine if I only got 8 GB of RAM. With 16 GB of Ram, the machine purrs.

Irwin
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Dec 25, 2021 00:10:11   #
A VERY MERRY to you too Ed.

Irwin
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Dec 25, 2021 00:09:01   #
A VERY MERRY to you too Ed.

Irwin
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Dec 20, 2021 10:46:16   #
amfoto1 wrote:
I have no dispute at all with the positives about mirrorless that Paul (Chg_Canon) and others have responded.

You might also want to consider some of the negatives aspects of mirrorless...

- Generally speaking, less shots per battery charge. This is largely due to the heavy power requirements of electronic viewfinders. The optical viewfinder in a DSLR is usable any time, even when the camera is powered down. Those OVFs also use relatively little power when active. This is not the case with mirrorless that rely upon an EVF (as most do). It's completely dark when the power is off and drawing power constantly when in use. All those cool, gee-whiz features in the EVF also need power. Now, most people get a lot more shots than CIPA tests would suggest, but the same is true of DSLRs. Just be sure to check the rating of any camera you consider and compare.

- Also related to the viewfinder, some mirrorless have an issue with blackout when shooting bursts. Most manufacturers have worked to address this with some success, at least in their more advanced (and more expensive) models.

- Most mirrorless top frame rates are only possible with electronic shutter (which is also the "silent" shutter). A possible problem with electronic shutter is "rolling shutter effect". This is where moving subjects are noticeably distorted in the image. The faster the movement, the stronger the distortion. It happens regardless of shutter speed and can be caused too if the camera is moving (such as panning or shooting from a moving vehicle). It also can cause "banding" issues under some types of lighting. Some manufacturers have produced cameras using backlit sensors that give a much faster readout of the data being captured, to minimize rolling shutter effect. But this type of sensor is generally only found in more advanced (and more expensive) models. Of course an alternative is to use the camera's mechanical shutter instead... but then you won't get the super fast frame rates. Still, the mechanical shutter is an option on most mirrorless, though since the upcoming top-of-the-line Nikon Z9 will be electronic shutter only, we may start seeing mechanical shutters going away.

- Not all electronic shutters are compatible with flash. Some recent (and more expensive) cameras have addressed this problem.

- Cost might be a consideration. In some cases the camera or lens might be cheaper than a comparable DSLR and it's lens. But in many cases the mirrorless gear is more expensive.

- Availability of native lenses and accessories may be limited. At their peak, the Nikon and Canon universe for their DSLRs included roughly 100 lenses. They've also been selling them for 30 or more years, so there is a crap load of used lenses. It's similar with some accessories. While it may be possible to adapt DSLR lenses for use on a mirrorless camera, in some cases autofocus performance takes a hit... plus the combination of the lens, adapter and camera may end up weighing roughly the same as a DSLR with the lens and no adapter. There also may not be much savings in size. Currently Sony, Fuji and the Olympus/Panasonic (micro 4/3 format) systems each offer between 35 and 45 lenses to choose among. What's lacking are mostly specialized lenses, such as macro and tilt/shift (aka perspective control). Since the Canon RF-mount and Nikon Z-mount mirrorless systems are relatively new... approx. 3 years old... they have less native lenses so far, although they're rapidly adding them. Each currently have approx. 24 lenses. The Nikon Z-series lenses, in particular, don't cover a lot of range yet. So depending upon what you need and the system you choose, maybe they'll have what you need... or maybe they won't. There are almost no used lenses available yet for some of these systems, too.

- There are very limited third party lens selection for many of these manufacturers, too. Almost none for Canon and Nikon. Not many for Fuji or Oly/Panasonic either. Sony sees pretty good support from 3rd party manufacturers for their E-mount system, but it's nowhere near as many options as there are for the Canon and Nikon DSLR systems.

- Pentax, Canon and Nikon DSLR systems all offer option of full frame or APS-C crop sensor format (note: Pentax has committed to DSLR only, no mirrorless). Each manufacturers have multiple models in each format and, without going into detail here, each format has its strengths and weaknesses. Right now among mirrorless, only Sony offers a reasonably good choice of full frame and APS-C models (though one of their new APS-C models has been indefinitely delayed due to chip shortages). Nikon offers both full frame and ASPS-C, but really only one example of the latter (there are two models in different styles, but functionally the same). Fuji is APS-C only (although they also make medium format mirrorless). Olympus/Panasonic are micro 4/3 only. The "L-mount alliance" of Sigma, Panasonic and Leica is so far full frame only. So is Canon's R-series (although they have a separate, largely non-interchangeable APS-C EOS-M system that they treat like an ugly step-child).

- Mirrorless camera tech is advancing rapidly. Manufacturers are sinking a lot into R&D for mirrorless (sometimes to the neglect of their other systems), some of which is in an effort to solve some of the problems noted above. This is good... But it also may mean that some (many?) models have or will become obsolete quickly, rapidly losing value while encouraging frequent upgrades. This is a bit like when the whole digital revolution hit hard 20 or 25 years ago to rapidly replace film. Significant tech breakthroughs were coming fast and furious, sometimes making cameras obsolete shortly after they arrived in stores! That was finally slowing down the last five or ten years... only to see the upswing of mirrorless replacing DSLRs. Over the course of 10 or 11 years (1998 to 2009), I went from 1.5MP to 6MP to 8MP to 15MP (plus 21MP in another format) to 18MP cameras.... And have since bought two more generations, each with a little more MP! Heck, I even skipped several generations along the way! (3MP, 10MP, 12MP, etc.) We're seeing something similar now in mirrorless!

None of the above are "deal breakers". Each "problem" noted may have no importance to you and/or is being worked on and dealt with by the manufacturers. And certainly, as we've seen in other responses mirrorless has a lot of pluses. In fact, recent mirrorless systems are fully capable of meeting most people's needs. But there are some things you may need to consider... Things that may affect your choices whether or not now is the time to go mirrorless. Or, if you do make the switch now, which mirrorless system would be best for you.
I have no dispute at all with the positives about ... (show quote)




A list like this is difficult becasue the particular problems may not exist at all whith specific cameras. My experience with mirrorless is limited to the Canon R5. I agree that the batteries do not last as long and that the camera and its "native" lenses are more expensive. There definitely was a blackout issue when using the electronic shutter, but I don't remember one with the mechanical shutter, but I will have to check.

The remainder of the "disadvantages" listed do not apply if the R5 is used properly, if they apply at all. For example, the lack of native lenses is a nonissue. The EF lenses I used focus just as well, if not faster and more accurately on my R5 than they did on my 5D Mark IV or my 7D Mark II. I have found the eye focusing a major benefit with EF lenses. The two lenses EF lenses I used most were the EF 100-400 version II and the 500mm 4.0 version, both of which performed better on the RF than they did on their "native " cameras. While I have since replaced the EF 100-400 and my EF 500 with the RF 100-500, I did so because it was a weight and convenience issue. The RF 100-500 is lighter than the EF 100-400 and is optically so good that I would not be lugging my EF 500 around. But I fail to see how the lack of "native" lenses is a disadvantage of the R5, as it uses EF lenses as well if not better than the the 5D Mark IV. At least with the Canon implementation, "native' lenses is a distinction without practical meaning.

You mentioned the difficulties caused by rolling shutter, which can be a very real problem of electronic shutters in certain photos. You also mentioned that the problem can be avoided by switching to the mechanical shutter. With the mechanical shutter the burst rate of 12 frames per second, my R5 has nearly double the rate of my 5Dk Mar IV (7 fps) and also exceeded my 7D Mark II (10 fps).

I am not a fanboy advocating for mirrorless cameras. I've taken most of my best images with a DSLR. In fact, I still use a DSLR (5 DSr) for my studio work, which comprises most of my professional work. Because of the specific strengths of the R5, I consolidated my kit and now use replaced two camera bodies with one, the mirrorless R5. But that does not mean it is a panacea for everyone. The problems you mentioned, may apply to some mirrorless but not all mirrorless cameras. As points of concern to check into if buying a camera, they are entirely appropriate. My point is to discuss whether those problems are issues with one specific camera, the Canon R5. The evaluation of the strengths and weaknesses of a MILC is model and brand specific. I just want to provide information for those who seek to use the R5 as a tool.
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Dec 19, 2021 10:56:23   #
To Paul's comprehensive list I would add the following based on my R5:

1. Focusing is quicker and more accurate, with automatic focus on the eye a potential game changer

2. IBIS is cumulative with the IS lenses to extend the range of sharp handheld images

3. The automatic focus bracketing program eliminates both shutter shake and mirror slap. This eliminated the 2 second camera settlement time I allowed between shots. Outdoor macro stacks now are completed in mere seconds meaning there is less chance of wind or changing light wrecking the stack. Although I have not clocked it, a stack of 25 images seems to be completed with my R5 in less time than it would have taken me to stack three images the old way.

4. The high frame rate, good ISO performance, high megapixel density in a full framed body means that use a single body different types of shooting, where I used multiple specific bodies for specialized tasks in the past. For example, I no longer need my 7D Mark II for birds.

Irwin
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Dec 19, 2021 10:06:36   #
raymondh wrote:
Thank you for your detailed opinion!


Glad to assist.

Irwin
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Dec 19, 2021 09:57:15   #
I do not see color in black and white photography (in which I would include monchromatic prints) any more than I see color in Rembrandt's etchings, any of Escher's monochromatic prints (he also made multi-color prints), black pen line drawings, and charcoals. Great artists, past and present, have used a monochromatic palette.

Black and white is an abstraction. For those who see photography solely in documentary terms, where the a primary goal is to render the subject as close in color and tone tone as it was originally perceived, the elimination of color information is an omission to be remedied.

There is a branch of photography that is less literal and more interpretive. Color can possess such visual immediacy that it grabs the attention and overwhelms other other visual elements. Where some see it as an abstraction that allows the eye to concentrate on elements of form, structure and detail, others will view it as an omission that deprives the image of necessary realism. We all have different tastes and neither viewpoint is right or wrong.

One person's art is another's failed artifice.

Irwin
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Dec 18, 2021 22:47:10   #
amfoto1 wrote:
Thanks Irwin... good points. I do have studio lighting, which is adequate although it's not very powerful. I also have several options for macro flash that's more portable for field work. So I rarely need to push ISO very high when shooting macro. I did as you suggested and looked at some of my macro shots. Most were ISO 200 and with some random spot checking I didn't find any where I'd used higher than ISO 400, although I can't entirely rule out the possibility that I used higher at times.

Again, thanks for the info!
Thanks Irwin... good points. I do have studio ligh... (show quote)


Glad to help, Alan. For what it is worth, I would look the 5DSr for the increased resolution, if that is within budget. I have not noticed any moire pattern in any of my macros, but that may be subject related. The overwhelming majority of my macro images are plant related with a high percentage of them focus stacked. If you are shooting subjected unlikely to be susceptible to moire patterns, then the r version will get you sharper results.
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Dec 18, 2021 11:42:15   #
burkphoto wrote:
1) It is not in the cloud. Only the installers for the software are in the cloud. And only the images YOU DECIDE to put in the cloud are there. The rest are local, on your hard drives or SSDs. But ALL the software runs locally, except for a few Photoshop neural filters.

2) There are TWO Lightrooms. The "cloudy" one, Lightroom, which used to be Lightroom Mobile, does rely on the Adobe Cloud service to move your images among all your computers, smartphones, and tablets. I don't use it, so I won't mention it again. But Lightroom CLASSIC, the one developed for professionals and now at version 11.0.1, runs mostly on your local computer. It can USE the Adobe Cloud, but most of us don't bother doing that.

3) Lightroom Classic and Photoshop are designed to work together.

Lightroom Classic is a "hub" of your workflow:

> It is an IMAGE DATABASE (Adobe calls it a catalog-based image library).
> It is a CULL EDITOR (It uses a light table motif to allow you to locate images quickly. Then you can view them individually, or compare a couple side by side.)
> It is a RATING TOOL (Use 0-5 stars to rate your images)
> It is a METADATA tool (Add details about your images individually or in bulk, to aid in searching the catalog for them later.)

> It has a NON-DESTRUCTIVE, PARAMETRIC editor. (You see proxies of your images. Raw files are developed in LrC using Adobe Camera Raw, the same as they would be in Adobe Bridge ACR or Photoshop ACR. The same ACR serves all three, with different interfaces in each of them. The proxies change dynamically as you make changes on screen. ORIGINAL FILES ARE NEVER ALTERED. They remain in place, as LrC stores instructions for use during Export, Print, Post to Web, or Edit in Photoshop — or another external editor — operations.)

When you need more tools than Lightroom Classic has, hitting Command+E starts Photoshop, hands it a TIFF or PSD of your image (created right then, based on instructions stored in Lightroom). You make changes in Photoshop. When you save the file, it is stored on disk, BUT it shows up in Lightroom Classic, next to the original in the catalog! The same can happen with your other imaging application. You can configure LrC to use as many external editors as you wish.

In short, there is no argument: It's not "Lightroom Classic vs. Photoshop," but rather, "Lightroom Classic AND Photoshop." They are completely different toolsets with different purposes.

LrC was designed to do most of what professionals do to manage their images' basic development and editing after a session. Photoshop is meant as a FINISHING tool for retouching, color separations for offset printing, adding text, applying layer effects and filters, and more.

Photoshop is a "black hole time sucker." You can fall into an image and spend hours on it, before you realize you need to get real work done. Lightroom was aimed at keeping working pros on schedule by just doing the essential tasks as efficiently as possible.
1) It is not in the cloud. Only the installers for... (show quote)


Excellent summary to which I would add a few comments about the integration with the cloud based LR. I synchronize a number of my collections made in LR Classic to the cloud based version so that I can see those collections, on my phone or other devices at any time and any place I have have service. Another advantage is that you can make a synchronized collection "public," which will create a link that you can then send to clients or anyone else you'd like to see that particular collection. You can remove that link any time you desire.

For example, I recently sent an editor a link to a collection of shots. She then told me the 5 or 6 she wanted to use. I then Dropboxed her the high res images. Much faster than trying to upload Dropbox 40 or so full res images which she would then have to download.

Irwin
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Dec 17, 2021 22:03:42   #
raymondh wrote:
If you were to have a dedicated macro body, would you go with the 5ds or the 5dIV?


If most of your macro are in the studio, shot with external lighting, or shot wide open outside, then I would highly recommend the 5Ds. If you using ISOs above 800 for your macro due to lighting, to prevent motion blur, to stop down or because of the light loss due to magnification, then I would use the 5D Mark IV. I love the 5DSr for my my macros where I don't have to push the ISO past 800 and thought the resolution trumped any disadvantages. Above ISO 800, I traded off the higher resolution of my 5Dsr for the cleaner image of the 5D Mark IV. I would look at your macro shots for last year and see if how often you shot at higher ISOs before I made my decision.

Irwin
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Dec 16, 2021 19:41:32   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Most of the currently made DSLR cameras that I have recently do not suffer from excessive mirror slaps. I do not have experience with every camera on the market but most of the digital Nikon and Canan models I have used over the past 18 or 20 years did not exhibit this issue to an alarming extent. I am no camera engineer or repair expert, but it seems the engineers have provided sufficient buffering of internal vibration.

I do recall, that my old and beaten-up Nikon F began to sound like a Model T Forn that needed a tuneup and slapped like a defective fan belt toward the end of its existence.

Even in the olden days, many of the better medium format SLR operated smoothly enough. Hasselblads, considering the size of the mirror and the complexity of the mechanism, were pretty good. Someof the less costly Japanese and Russian models would practically jump off the table when the shutters were released.

The new camera is not nearly as problematic in that respect, but old habits die hard and especially at slower shutter speeds, I use a sturdy tripod whenever it is practical and reflexively lock up the mirror before making the exposure. I still pref a cable or remote real for slower shutter speeds and remember the basic concept of not POKING at the shutter release on handheld shots.

It is something kinda ironic that some folks will go out and purchase the sharpest possible lenses and bodies with enormous megapixel counts and yet ignore or for some of the basics of supporting the camera, releasing the shutter, and managing the mirror issue. Sometimes it is no wonder- some shooters are so preoccupied with the back-button operation and all the control dials and sliders that they can't concentrate on someof the basics. To me, someof the cameras look like the instrument panel on the flight deck of a jet aircraft- too much stuff to mess with folks forget to "get a grip"!
Most of the currently made DSLR cameras that I hav... (show quote)


I remember with fondness my early model Pentax 67 that had a ferocious slap to its shot that Bobby Hull would have been proud of. As for irony,we are a funny species...often, unintentionally so.

Irwin
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Dec 16, 2021 19:21:04   #
DirtFarmer wrote:
Abstract

A study of the effect of mirror slap on the sharpness of images shows that (not a surprise) the use of a solid foundation for a camera is an important element in the generation of sharp images. The study was performed in order to quantify the effect. A series of tests were performed to see what the effect of the internal motions of elements in a camera would have on the sharpness of edges in the resulting image. The results indicate that the sharpness can be decreased by a factor of around two if the camera is not solidly constrained.

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user-page?upnum=3089
b Abstract /b br br A study of the effect of mi... (show quote)


Mirror slap and shutter shake become greater problems at higher magnification macros. Once on a firm foundation, such as a sturdy tripod, live view (in most recent cameras) will lock up the mirror and in many Canon cameras (and probably others) will initiate electronic first shutter, which will eliminate the most harmful shutter movement. Remote triggers also help in the effort to get the sharpest image.
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Dec 12, 2021 10:10:19   #
When I get a new equipment, such as a long lens, I will do it to get a feel for the lens and to practice my target acquisition. Or when I try a new feature for me, such as controlling the focus point by using my thumb on the screen with the camera to my eye. By the time I get into the field, I want my actions to be second nature so that I am not thinking about the physical aspects of it.

I will also occasionally manually focus stack at 1:1 to keep the ability to get small, relatively even incremental turns of the focus ring, while maintaining a light touch that does not effect camera position. When I started focus stacking, where were no automated controls and it was strickly manual. With the advent of automated systems, I did it so that I had a backup in case my CamRanger ran out of batteries. Now that my camera has an easy setting to use and has certain technical advantages, I sometimes do a manual stack after I got the automated stack, because I just like the feeling of doing it manually.

Irwin
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Dec 10, 2021 10:20:41   #
My typical work flow is to import the raw image into Lightroom, open it as a smart object in Photoshop, then use Silver Effects to make the conversion and develop the image. I usually have a pretty good idea of what I want so I seldom use the presets, though I do look at them to see if there is an approach I've overlooked. Then I start pushing the sliders and performing local adjustments.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:07:22   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Oh well, I don't understand why you care who takes them from FB then .... Seemingly, your priorities are different from mine, especially if "all" can't be adjusted to be instead "most" via opacity and size / font.


Paul, I suppose its a matter of taste and how we individually perceive the image. Personally my eyes tend to be more in agreement with chasgroh and typically watermarks bother me; although I have seen a few where the watermark is so innocuous that it doesn't bother me. This is just a matter of personal point of view. I respect and accept your perceptions, though watermarks tend to spoil the work for me.

But their is another consideration. I don't know if you have seen recent cell phone commercials for Samsung phones stressing the ability to remove distracting parts of the image easily. The days that you had to be a Photoshop maven to successfully remove a part of an image are fast fading. Computational photography and AI are changing the game with surprising phone technology. Watching the facility that some of my younger family members manipulate images on their phones is eyeopening. Distracting elements are eliminated and photo recropped with ease. Even small image size may not be a defense. Unlike my world of a large computer screen, theirs is the world of the small screen. Any low pixel image that will look good enough to view on our monitors has more than enough resolution to view on their small screens. It's a changing world.

Irwin
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