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Posts for: mikegreenwald
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Mar 23, 2023 15:49:24   #
There are many qualities to consider.
I have a strong preference for recent mirrorless cameras, largely because of IBIS, faster focus, eye tracking, better sensors, etc. There's less noise and better low light performance with full frame.
Crop sensors have a huge advantage in weight and cost; this is a very big factor if you're older and want to carry your equipment on long hikes.
There's lots of excellent glass for both, but if you're looking for the very top IQ, full frame wins hands down; few will notice in your end product photos though.
One size doesn't fit all; in the end your own needs and preferences will make one or the other a better choice for you!
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Mar 21, 2023 17:47:48   #
topcat wrote:
Nice series, but next year I want to see you take the plunge.


Are you going to join him?
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Mar 20, 2023 23:12:29   #
larryepage wrote:
I will not pretend to speak for professional photographers. But as a photographic hobbyist, I will observe that every hobby seems to have its proportion of practitioners that can only be described as perfectionists (or in some cases frustrated perfectionists). They seem to know a little more than others, spend more than others, work a little harder than others, carry their noses a little higher in the air than others...you get the idea. I am also a model railroader. In model railroading, those folks are called "rivet counters." The name is descriptive of the disease. The thing is, those folks generally don't tend to be "better" model railroaders than others. In fact, as often as not, their trains don't run as well as those of less obsessive modelers, because time that could be spent on operational considerations or basic maintenance tasks is instead spent fretting on whether battery compartment grills on a particular locomotive model have 10 rows or 11 rows of openings.

Of course, the idea of model railroading is to represent a full-size railroad in miniature...usually in 1/48, 1/64, 1/87 (actually 1/87.1), or 1/160 scale. A reasonable level of accuracy is necessary to do this with a meaningful level of realism. But in truth, very few people, especially old people, are ever going to see the difference between 10 and 11 rows of holes on a 1/160 scale model.

I would maintain that in the case of today's lenses, there are many things that are more important in the appearance of a photograph than whether a zoom or fixed focal length lens was used, at least most of the time. I would also maintain that where there is a difference, that difference may not even arise from the optical designs. I have two older AF-D lenses...an 85mm f/1.4 and a 180mm f/2.8. I would expect that either of these would produce better images overall than the 70-200mm f/2.8 zoom which covers their same focal lengths. The reason is simple...these lenses are smaller, lighter, more agile, and just generally easier to manage than the 70-200. They likely have a simpler optical design, but that may or may not provide a real-life advantage.

What is not debatable, though, is that the focal length of each of these two lenses is very confining. If it's right for the task, it's great, and each lens will do an undeniably great job. But for either lens, that focal length very quickly becomes not right for the task. Now I also have a 50mm f/1.4 AF-D lens. It also is a fine lens that does a fine job. It also has a wider working area...a wider range over which it can be usefully used. The same is true for my 35mm lens, but the opposite is true for the 300mm f/4 that I bought as my first really long lens many years ago. While it's a very nice lens and was quite reasonably priced (bought new), there just aren't that many times that it gets to come out and play.

For me, the absence of any real MEANINGFUL optical advantage from my fixed focal length lenses, combined with the tremendously greater versatility of my zoom lenses, even the 3:1 zooms, means that the fixed lenses stay in the shelf most of the time. There was a time in the last century when this would not have been true. Zooms thirty of forty years ago really were huge compromises, and were quite expensive besides. But it is no longer the last century. And it is not fair or justifiable to apply 20th century truths or biasws to 21st century lenses. I think it was the Luddites who were pretty famous for doing stuff like that.
I will not pretend to speak for professional photo... (show quote)


Wonderful note - Thank you!!
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Mar 20, 2023 18:01:25   #
No quarrel on my part.
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Mar 20, 2023 17:16:59   #
The difference is obvious, but proves only that this 90 is sharper than this 50-140 in these conditions.
The first lesson in logic is never generalize from the individual to the general.
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Mar 20, 2023 14:53:41   #
TriX wrote:
Modern zooms, as long as you stay in the 3:1 or 4:1 ratio can be excellent. Get beyond that range, and while they may be acceptable (especially for a “walk” around lens or travel), there are compromises in IQ. BUT, they don’t stand up to a good prime in terms of acuity and especially contrast (not to mention size and weight). As I progress in photography (and carefully test my lenses before use), more and more, I’m leaning toward fast primes - the difference IS visible - not just the acuity, but also the contrast.

I’ve tested the Canon 135 f2L against my 70-200 f2.8L IS, and the prime is noticeably sharper and still sharper even with a Canon 1.4x extender. Did the same test with my Fuji, comparing the 16-80, 50-140 (a “red badge” zoom), 70-300 and the 90 prime all at 80-90mm, and the 90 prime was such a standout, that it was surprising how much better it was. As a previous poster mentioned, those images taken with a prime often stand out to me as the best.
Modern zooms, as long as you stay in the 3:1 or 4:... (show quote)


Thank you; I agree with everything you said within the context of technical IQ, which was my intent with the original post.
However I also agree those who point out that there is much more to a photograph than just technical quality. It takes more time to change lenses than to zoom in or out; If the situation requires speed, if hiking demands weight restrictions, if budget restricts purchases, many other possibilities, there remains a large place for zooms. As most seem to agree, the best of modern zoom lenses are capable of excellence.
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Mar 20, 2023 11:53:55   #
Grumpy2k wrote:
Question: If you are in the dark, how do you know where the frame window is? The main downside to this for me is neuropathy in my hands has robbed me of most of my sense of touch. I should also clarify that I can see the markings on the film back clearly through the frame counter window. It’s a matter of knowing which numbers/markings to use as reference points. I’ve made a template of the 7x11cm negative size, and I’m going ask a photographer friend for some sample 120 film back paper and lay out where I think images will fall in relationship to the back markings and the frame count window.

Many thanks to all who responded. Everyone’s input provided much needed avenues of thought.
Question: If you are in the dark, how do you know ... (show quote)


As far as I know, counting turns of the film advance crank is the best alternative. If you lack sensitivity in your fingertips working in the dark or in a black changing bag won't work.
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Mar 20, 2023 10:43:28   #
ELNikkor wrote:
I roll the 120 roll with the back open in the dark and feel the paper with my finger on it as it advances from one spool to the next, then use a marker to mark the paper where the frame-window is. Then take the empty spool out and rewind the film onto it. Put it back in, ready to go, works great!


This sounds like a winner - simpler than my suggestion, but the same result.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:37:16   #
My reference will be lenses for interchangeable lens cameras only.
I have experience with Canon ILC equipment only. Feel free however, to comment on Nikon, Sony, aftermarket and other OEMs as well.
Zoom lenses have become excellent in terms of IQ in the last couple of decades. With the shorter ratio zooms, certainly down to 3:1, possibly 4:1, most images are useable even up to very large prints. Certainly low light impacts IQ. The extremes of range, sometimes at one end, sometimes at the other, often at both ends, IQ is mildly impacted. At zoom ranges greater than 4:1 I have not been happy with IQ.
What is your experience?
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Mar 19, 2023 09:14:18   #
As best I recall, that camera used 116 film. The roll length was a little longer than 120.
I'd find an unusable roll of 120, and run it through with the back open while counting turns of film advanced as you go.
Another option is to shoot and develop a roll of 120 at the cameras inherent 116 rate, and count turns of the crank as you advance the film.
Then, by measuring the size of wasted space between shots, you can work out a simple ratio of crank turns for 120 film. Don't forget to leave a little space between shots for margins.
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Mar 19, 2023 09:05:52   #
Are these shots the photographic equivalent of painters' "watercolors?"
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Mar 17, 2023 09:12:33   #
Paul, next heart I'd like to see a picture that YOU TAKE from deep in the lake, of the audience ashore!😂😇🤪
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Mar 13, 2023 10:29:51   #
So far, the only thing "Better than Tums for GAS" is a fat wallet. If you can figure out how to arrange for that, I and lots of others will be forever in your debt :-) .
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Mar 13, 2023 10:24:05   #
No problems at all with the update, so far only on MacBook Pro M1 2020, iOS 13.2.1.
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Mar 13, 2023 10:23:56   #
No problems at all with the update, so far only on MacBook Pro M1 2020, iOS 13.2.1.
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