n my experience the CF to SD adapter works ok in the 7D. I have noted that write times do suffer somewhat so if you do a burst of a couple of seconds, expect the time to clear the buffer to be longer than with CF cards. This may just be ythe nature of SD cards and not the adapter, however. On a side note, I have been able to use an Eye-Fi Pro X2 card in my 7D with the CF-SD adaptery and get it to transfer pictures directly to my computer. There are Youtube videos available demonstrating how to do this.

I have Canon versions of a number of Yongnou flashes including the 565ex and 568exii. The most recent, the 568exii, is not as sturdy as the 565ex, in my opinion. Mine has been used significantly less than the others at this point, but has a bad spring under one of the batteries that turns off the flash when it is used in any position other than upright. I have a work around with a washer under the battery that works, but I don't like it. Also the 568exii does not have a connector for an external battery. If I had realized that ahead of time, I probably would not have bought this flash. Based on my experience, if you don't need high speed sync, I would not go with the 568exii. Hopefully its just my flash that has the battery problem and its not a sign that the models are Yongnous are being made with less quality than before.

I use the older EF-S 18-135 with my crop sensor Canons and a EOS-M as a walk around lens. As such it takes reasonable pictures. My primary complaint is that the lens creeps badly toward the telephoto end of it range when hung from a neck strap. I have partially solved this by putting one of those stretchy wrist straps that were popular a few years back around the lens so that it overlaps the focal length ring and the lens body. It doesn't completely stop it from creeping, but is slows it down enough that you can take a photo while pointing the lens straight downward.

There are a number of YouTube videos available on the web. I had to watch several of them before I could get my 6D to connect consistently. I struggled for quite awhile. the finally hit on just the right settings to make it work. Its been a few months now, so I can't remember exactly what I did. I do remember that I had the best luck initially hooking to a portable router instead of my home network. After that it seemed to work right with the home network as well. I agree with the previous post that forgetting all network related information in the 6D is a good starting point.

[quote=speters][quote=raysass]Thanks for that. I did not know the 6D did not have an in camera flash. A bit of a disadvantage don't you think?[/quote

Not at all, I would have no use for one, had one once on a camera, but I never used it.[/quote]


I don't miss a built-in flash on my 6D. I have had them on the other DSLRs that I have used, but never found them to be very useful. I think a bigger limitation is the 1/180 sync speed (as opposed to 1/250 for the 7D and many others).

I'd like to add another possibility. Purchase a manual flash capable of operating as an optical flash (YN-560 or similar) and set it off with a 430 on the camera. This has some advantages in that the 430 output can be controlled by the camera to be low (as fill) and still set off the off-camera flash at a higher (manually set) level of output. To do this set the YN-560 as a S2 slave so that it ignores the pre-flash from the camera mounted flash in TTL. S1 causes the flash to shoot on the first flash it sees (possibly the pre-flash).

I don't have a 430 but I think it is similar to other Canon flashes in that it does not have an optical slave mode (Perhaps I am wrong; the 508exii does not have an optical slave mode). My suggestion is to get a set of wireless transmitters (Yongnou RF-603 or similar) to accomplish this type of behavior. If you want TTL level control, try a set of Yongnou YN-622C transceivers. The 430 can not act as masters and the 6D does not have a flash to use for Canon flash based TTL control. Alternatively, a shoe mounted optical slave could be used with one 430 on camera and the second attached to the shoe optical slave. I never had very consistent success with this type of arrangement, however. Another more expensive solution might be to buy a third party flash capable of being a master flash (YN-580 or similar).

I live just north of Syracuse. I'm sure you miss our best known season living in Arizona. I'm looking forward to getting up to the Adirondacks to try out the Tokina wide-angle.

I recently purchased a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. Its specifically for crop sensor cameras such as your 7D (which I use on as well). Reasonably priced, good build and wide enough that it makes sense on a crop sensor camera. I think it's about 17.6 mm (full frame equivalent)on the 7D. My only complaint is that it has a narrow zoom range, but typically you buy a wide-angle to work at the wide-angle end of the zoom.

I keep my Canons on BBF all of the time except in in one particular situation. When using a wired or wireless remote shutter, you have to return the camera to shutter focus otherwise the camera does not do any focus (you could focus first on the Back Button the shoot as well). Of course it's only relevant in autofocus modes. I have been using BBF for about 4 years and will continue to do so.

Go to Menu > Custom Functions (second from right) > C.Fn IV:Operations Others > 5 > Disable "Add image verification data" (selection 0:Disable). Press set and you should be good.

You might want to try one of these Op/Tech devices to carry at the lug with a BR type strap. They seem to be supper strong. I have been carry a Canon 7D & 6D with a 24-70 f/2.8 using one of these through the left lug. I feel more secure with this that the tripod mount.

http://www.amazon.com/OP-TECH-USA-Connector-Adapt-Its/dp/B00162YZXE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377429551&sr=8-1&keywords=OP%2FTECH+USA+System+Connector+Adapt-Its

You do install a ML loader into the camera once, but ML must be on each of the cards that you intend to use. As far as deleting pictures, no problem with doing an in camera format as ML software handles it. It seems to take a few seconds longer than usual, however. A card with ML on it can be used in another camera without ML, but I would recommend formatting that card on a camera modified for ML. Just don't format on your computer as it will remove assess to the ML files. It is, however, not too difficult to add the correct folder back on if it is mistakenly deleted.

I have used polarizing filters for many years. As I understand it, the effect from a polarizer are one of the few filter effects that cannot replicated in software successfully.

Check out Magic Lantern software. I believe that it removes some of the time limitations on video length. I used it on a T1i for some of it's still picture capabilities, but I think that ML was really geared to video. I believe there is still the 4gb limit of the filesystem, but the behavior of the camera using ML is similar to what you describe for the 70D.