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Posts for: dave.m
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Apr 10, 2020 10:32:48   #
R.G. wrote:
I occasionally get invited by Adobe to suggest ways that Lightroom could be improved. Are there any features that you would like to see in Lr?


Your suggestions for improvements?



Not a feature request but can you get them to look at the licence model? I understand why users have to be logged in periodically to ensure that it is a valid licence so have no problem with that - a great product needs to prevent theft as best it can, and to ensure it is only installed on 2 systems.

But the cost is high for some amateurs on fixed incomes (which comes to us all with retirement, and will be a big issue I foresee with the commercial impact of Covid-19 over the next months and probably years.)

All I want is Lightroom classic and photoshop classic- no web, no interchangeability between installations on windows, apple, android, ipad etc. I realise that this is very important to professionals but not to me, and I suspect many others.

Hence something that was paid annually at about 1/2 the price would be just right and stop me looking at other apps to reduce costs. I don't care if the apps periodically check to see I have a valid 1 year licence/ update but just want to reduce costs and have just he apps I want. Once the 1 year licence expires then it reverts to an evaluation copy. This would save money and Adobe as they don't have to process the payments more than once a year
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Apr 10, 2020 10:10:56   #
LWW wrote:
Question: who is missing shots fumbling to change ISO when situations change drastically and rapidly?

Answer: you

I find this whole debate interesting in that is a mix of 'in the day' and 'now'.

In the days of film the film speed A.S.A was the essential 1st choice - unless you had loads of cash once the film was in that was the A.S.A you had. The choice was very important slow film gives very sharp results but often led to long exposures or made carrying a flash almost essential. I remember vividly trying to shoot a landscape when I had A.S.A 800 in the camera and not being able to get depth of field.

The choice of film speed not only affected the operational shutter speed and aperture choices, it also had a great impact on sharpness. To get faster film speed the grains of silver were exponentially larger to catch more light and sharpness dropped off exponentially as well.

What you got was what you loaded before you went out. Get it wrong and either change films of live with it.

With digital cameras the position is completely reversed - ISO choice is a function of what shutter speed and aperture we want at the time. So now at last we can decide on what aperture we want for depth of field we want, what shutter speed we want for sharpness / blur effects we want. And most times in reasonable light, let the camera take care of ISO as it has very little effect on the outcome of the image.

This is simply because ISO setting just affects the sensitivity of the sensor - a 20Mpx sensor has the pixels at a set distance. Changing the sensitivity doesn't change the spacing so it is still a 20Mpx sensor with the same sharpness. Withing very wide limits compared with film, ISO has no great bearing on the final output. Yes of course if you push to the very limits then you will get noise but rest assured you can push ISO many many stops further than film A.S.A and still get a result.

So I for one of many am happy to let the camera set ISO. I often use Aperture priority to ensure I get the DoF I want, and the camera then sets shutter speed according to what lens I have fitted (seems to take inverse of focal length + 1) and then sets ISO accordingly. Occasionally I set full manual particularly with night shots when I want to force a particular aperture shutter speed. So need to set ISO to prevent it going into the noise zone.
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Mar 18, 2020 07:24:04   #
Minor typo correction .... 180 dpi (dots per inch) will be good so 19 x 160 = 3450....
should be 19x180=3420
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Mar 18, 2020 07:21:08   #
several writers above have identified the issues, and here is a specific reference to viewing distance

http://resources.printhandbook.com/pages/viewing-distance-dpi.php

There are 2 elements - the physical size vs. distance, and the resolution needed at that distance (the old inverse square law strikes again.) If you've ever been up close and personal with an advertising hoarding which may be 10 x 6 metres and typically viewed from the other side of a road, the pixel size can be the size of a small fingernail. But it looks fine from the expected viewing distance.

Similarly when you stand up close to a painted canvas in a museum not only are there no pixels, it can look like a mass of paint smears - but step back and an amazing image is revealed.

If you view on a screen at normal arm length viewing distance, 300 ppi (pixels per inch) will look good. I have a Eizo 24" monitor (20" wide x 12.5 high) which at maximum res is 1920 x 1200. 1920 / 20 = 96 ppi. So suddenly my 300 ppi image is being condensed 3:1 to fit on the screen! Images that fill the screen look great but if I want to do some fine editing I'll zoom in to 1:1

The largest I can print is A3+ (an EU name for 19x13" 'cos they find inches too difficult :) If I view that (like a painting) from 3 to 5 feet, then 180 dpi (dots per inch) will be good so 19 x 160 = 3450 dots wide.

Perhaps easiest to work backwards:

I have a Canon EOS R with quoted Sensor resolution: 6741 x 4494. At 300 ppi for arm length viewing that gives 22" x 15". If I print and view from 1 to 1.5 m viewing up to 37" wide with no apparent degradation.

As has been eloquently mention several times cropping affects that, potentially dramatically. If I crop my full pixel size image by 1/2 at 300 ppi my maximum potential printed image size becomes 11 x 7.5" with no apparent degradation. Yet it still looks fine on my 24" monitor - because the monitor is at 96 dpi.

Worth also noting that digital sharpening also affects the perceived image quality as it makes the edges look great

So if your still reading, pixel density is directly related to viewing distance and the display resolution of your media (screens are typically lower than printed), and cropping directly affects the number of pixels you have in the image to fill the media.
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Mar 6, 2020 12:29:08   #
mizzee wrote:
Photoshop and Photoshop Elements are not what I’d call beginner programs. Picasa is where I started; it’s uncomplicated and intuitive. and intuitive.


But has been retired and unsupported for some time now.
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Mar 6, 2020 06:56:37   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
If you use Windows, take a look at the first free download in this list:
https://www.faststone.org/

It says "viewer" but actually has quite a few editing tools.

It might be instructive to know what caused your inability to open edited photos from previous apps. What software was it? And were you editing jpg or raw files?


For Windows this is a terrific program!! I have a PS subscription and use Faststone Viewer for probably 60 to 70% of my editing - fast, flexible, easy to use, plenty of editing functions and free. To try just load download the standalone version, and explore (all editing functions are found by 'bouncing' mouse pointer on the LH side.)

https://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDownload.htm

I dunno what camera your using but it edits any JPEG, Canon RAW and loads of others There are even shortcuts for common functions. There are also several output formats in addition to the obvious JPEG

I find it surprising they don't charge for it, and no nag screens or adverts

PS I have NO connection to Faststone other than being a very impressed user.
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Feb 22, 2020 06:23:07   #
Robg wrote:
Since it might have relevance to what follows, here is what I use: Lumix DMC-FZ300 (set at 12mp; 4000x3000), Dell XPS 15 with external 27” Ultra HD Display, Windows 10 (16GB), Lightroom CC version 3.2.

I’m not a professional and am primarily interested in travel, nature and wildlife photography.

Until now, I've only shot JPG, but with a major trip looming, I want to decide if I should plan to shoot in RAW. So, I took a number of pictures at a marina in RAW+JPG to compare them in post processing in order to "see for myself" if RAW was worth the disadvantages.

In Lightoom CC I compared the effects of various edits on many of the pairs. Bottom line: I saw very little (almost no) difference between the edited JPG’s and RAW’s. Only at the far end of a few of the edit sliders, say the last 5-10%, could I see a difference.

The strongest difference was in the exposure slider where I was able to reveal slightly more detail (with the slider all the way to the right) in the heaviest shadows in the RAW files.

I also compared the pairs after randomly applying some of the presets, and really saw no differences at all between a JPG and a RAW after any preset had been applied.

Lightroom has an “Enhance” feature that works only with RAW images. I tried that on a couple of images and although it made a difference, I can’t say that I preferred the enhanced images. But I can see that there could be images that this feature might improve.

In summary, the RAW advantages that might have some potential value are for images where desired details are hidden in very heavy shadows and for images that would be improved by using the “Enhance” feature, although for the latter I don’t know what those would be.

That didn't seem like much. Hence, the question in the topic title – what am I missing?

What else can I experiment with that would show me some major advantages of RAW? I did not compare the images after severe cropping, or, alternatively as very large prints. Is that where significant differences show up?

On the other hand, with my camera at least, RAW is not without cost. There is a loss of functionality when shooting RAW or RAW+JPG. The “Handheld Night Shot Mode” is disabled, as is the iHDR mode. I have benefited from these modes extensively, particularly iHDR.

Other features that I’m not so dependent on are also not available when shooting RAW, including Super High Burst Mode and digital zoom.

For me the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages of RAW unless someone can help me find other advantages I currently don’t see.
Since it might have relevance to what follows, her... (show quote)


As you seem happy with JPG on your camera, then as others have suggested, use RAW+JPG as in insurance policy, and switch it off temporarily when you want to use iHDR or similar. These days good quality SD cards are relatively cheap so the cost of storage in camera is modest. If you fluff the exposure, colour balance, or have high contrast with dark shadows/highlights, then RAW is often the only chance of getting an image that is worthwhile.

My main interest is also travel and I typically shoot RAW only. Probably 70+ % of the images I use in an album are effectively 'snapshots' of no great artistic value but often big memory value and are exported to JPG with minimal interaction other than crop and a bit of lightening. That could easily have been direct from JPG in camera. For a few where more work was needed RAW comes into its own.

Have you ever had a sunset/ sunrise that looked positively bland compared with your memory? A deep shadow exposure into the sun where the shadow detail is not there? A shot with a dark foreground and burnt out sky? etc etc etc. With RAW these can be turned into the memory you had or close to it. With JPG the content has been already been processed out by the in-camera conversion, and you can't recover or adjust what has already been removed.
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Feb 19, 2020 05:09:51   #
joer wrote:
Some photographers use extender but be aware they are intended for long, fast primes and very few zooms, unless image sharpness is not critical for your application.


Perhaps someone needs to tell that to Canon

The EF100-400 II + x1.4 III is excellent and better than a few long primes that I have compared with. Also The 2020 road map for RF lenses announces a 100-500 zoom, x1.4 and x2 extenders. The only native RF lenses they will work with are the 100-500 or 70-200 as the longest prime is still 85mm - although even with RF focusing I think a 1000mm f11 ish lens will need a serious tripod and manual focus!
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Feb 18, 2020 09:20:29   #
dave.m wrote:
An extender will not improve, and in fact reduces image quality. But everything is a trade-off. In this case - for me - does the cost, and weight + bulk advantage in the camera bag, of a TC vs. another lens give me an advantage?

I tested this quite easily - could I reduce weight and bulk if I used a 100-400+TC rather than carry a 150-600? Also for me, my default lens is a 24-105 so I would have a continuous focal range of 24-600+ with 2 lenses. In fact I sold a good 150-600 Tamron after buying the x1.4 TC for the 100-400 as IQ of Canon +TC was better than the excellent Tamron (and anyone could argue 'so it should be given the total cost'.)

As to IQ, that was also easy to test providing you can get access to the kit.
- I checked side by side image quality centre and corners at 100% of the 100-400 at 400. This is baseline and I expected to be best.
- I then repeated the test with the lens +TC combo at approx 400 (so I could compare like for like with the bare lens and lens+TC.)
- then checked at max lens + TC (640mm)
- also checked a crop of the bare lens with lens+TC enlarged to similar size
- for curiosity as I had the lens I compared with the Tamron 150-600 (v1)

Results were pretty much as you would expect - bare lens was best,lens+TC results at similar focal length were not as good, and at max were also less sharp but much better than I expected and perfectly good for display or printing at 100% or less. The all important crop enlargement was not as good as the lens+TC (otherwise whats the point of a TC if an enlarged crop of the same area is as good or better!)

Initially, the main surprise was that the Canon 100-400+TC was better than the Tamron at 600 - again on reflection this is not surprising given the huge cost differential and that the Canon was a new v2 lens and the Tamron an older v1.

I would also mention with my camera/lens combinations there was no noticeable impact on focusing because even with TC the maximum aperture was withing the autofocus range (a x2 would not have been and would have hunted or probably failed to focus.)

I would emphasise my testing though careful, was empirical and subjective, but I would always advise before anyone spends shed loads, to test the actual equipment they intend to purchase!
An extender will not improve, and in fact reduces ... (show quote)


Oops! that should be 400x1.4 = 560mm max
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Feb 18, 2020 09:17:06   #
billnikon wrote:
No extender improves image quality. Since you have a Tamron, I would go with the Tamron (but personally I would not add an extender to any zoom lens. BUT, your focusing speed will decrease and your image quality at 400 mm will suffer.


An extender will not improve, and in fact reduces image quality. But everything is a trade-off. In this case - for me - does the cost, and weight + bulk advantage in the camera bag, of a TC vs. another lens give me an advantage?

I tested this quite easily - could I reduce weight and bulk if I used a 100-400+TC rather than carry a 150-600? Also for me, my default lens is a 24-105 so I would have a continuous focal range of 24-600+ with 2 lenses. In fact I sold a good 150-600 Tamron after buying the x1.4 TC for the 100-400 as IQ of Canon +TC was better than the excellent Tamron (and anyone could argue 'so it should be given the total cost'.)

As to IQ, that was also easy to test providing you can get access to the kit.
- I checked side by side image quality centre and corners at 100% of the 100-400 at 400. This is baseline and I expected to be best.
- I then repeated the test with the lens +TC combo at approx 400 (so I could compare like for like with the bare lens and lens+TC.)
- then checked at max lens + TC (640mm)
- also checked a crop of the bare lens with lens+TC enlarged to similar size
- for curiosity as I had the lens I compared with the Tamron 150-600 (v1)

Results were pretty much as you would expect - bare lens was best,lens+TC results at similar focal length were not as good, and at max were also less sharp but much better than I expected and perfectly good for display or printing at 100% or less. The all important crop enlargement was not as good as the lens+TC (otherwise whats the point of a TC if an enlarged crop of the same area is as good or better!)

Initially, the main surprise was that the Canon 100-400+TC was better than the Tamron at 600 - again on reflection this is not surprising given the huge cost differential and that the Canon was a new v2 lens and the Tamron an older v1.

I would also mention with my camera/lens combinations there was no noticeable impact on focusing because even with TC the maximum aperture was withing the autofocus range (a x2 would not have been and would have hunted or probably failed to focus.)

I would emphasise my testing though careful, was empirical and subjective, but I would always advise before anyone spends shed loads, to test the actual equipment they intend to purchase!
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Feb 18, 2020 04:25:58   #
when unsure RTFM :)
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Feb 17, 2020 17:20:56   #
dave.m wrote:
Here are a couple of frames. Hand held, lighting with LED desktop lamp, so no great images! Didn't even clean the watch (see fingerprint over date.)

Only processing is to convert raw to jpg with Fastone Image Capture for this post. Exif from FS capture shows 1st with 150mm lens, 2nd is with canon extender x1.4 III. Apeture set at f/8, shutter speed and ISO auto. Taken at about the same distance. Images have not been resized if you wish to zoom to 100%, but if you really want to check IQ at this magnification it should be taken with a tripod of course.
Here are a couple of frames. Hand held, lighting w... (show quote)


Just checked image from website and it appears to have been resized and dunno how to upload original full size
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Feb 17, 2020 17:18:28   #
mwsilvers wrote:
I am surprised that you are able to use a Canon Extender with a Sigma lens.


Here are a couple of frames. Hand held, lighting with LED desktop lamp, so no great images! Didn't even clean the watch (see fingerprint over date.)

Only processing is to convert raw to jpg with Fastone Image Capture for this post. Exif from FS capture shows 1st with 150mm lens, 2nd is with canon extender x1.4 III. Apeture set at f/8, shutter speed and ISO auto. Taken at about the same distance. Images have not been resized if you wish to zoom to 100%, but if you really want to check IQ at this magnification it should be taken with a tripod of course.








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Feb 17, 2020 15:11:09   #
mwsilvers wrote:
I am surprised that you are able to use a Canon Extender with a Sigma lens.


i'll take a couple of test shots when I get back tonight and post / with exif works well with macro as as I get 150 f/2.8 or 210mm f/4

nobody told me I couldn't so I just did. Also used it with a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 without problems. Can't speak for any other manufactuer as don't have any but Sigma a pretty good on Canon Comaptability.

Most autofocus issues result because many cameras need f5.6 or thereabouts to autofocus. Can't get that if you start with aperture greater than f4 (or f2.8 using a x2 TC) before adding TC. It doesn't matter what aperture you set (except in M of course) as all (?) cameras focus at max aperture before stopping down to shoot.
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Feb 17, 2020 07:46:09   #
I've tested 3 x1.4 extenders at my local store and the Canon EF x1.4 III IQ was visibly better than Kenko and Tamron, both in contrast and colour. I checked the resulting images at 100% on my laptop and again they looked noticeably sharper. With my particular setup, the Kenko was poor, the Tamron was OK. In fact I got better results just cropping the 100-400 image to the same size than with the Kenko. It could of course have been a duff one.


I invariably use with a Canon 100-400 but Just tested it with a Sigma 150mm Macro DG + Canon x1.4 + EF->RF adapter on an EOS R and it works just fine. No visible problems with IQ at aperture, AF is no different than without, and at 100% image looks just fine.

So it looks as if providing the lens works, some Extenders are interchangeable. Suggest you check your combination at your local photo store to avoid disappointment in IQ after the event.
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