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Posts for: chrisg-optical
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Feb 12, 2024 21:57:08   #
Everything ages to some degree but I think in this example it's just the technology used back then wasn't as good as today with regards to dynamic range and color science and processing. With enough post editing you can probably alter that image to make it appear as if from a more recent model. There probably is some aging effect (fading) on the sensor color filter. So, if you take a camera of today, take a test shot (RAW), use it for 25 years, then take the same test shot 25 years from now with same lighting and exposure, I am sure there will be some degradation in the image due to the color filter fading.
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Feb 12, 2024 21:41:47   #
Wow amazing shot and example of "rolling shutter" effect.
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Feb 10, 2024 13:52:34   #
bnsf wrote:
Received a email from Sony that the New Sony 9 iii is being released and should be in the camera stores soon with a $5998.00 going price and free overnight delivery via FedEx. If you are interested in this new camera contact your dealer to order this camera.


Even if it were half the price they could keep it. Global shutter is of niche benefit maybe to SOME sports photographers, or maybe photographers needing super high speed flash sync, or maybe distortion-less video with fast motion (some cinematic cameras already have that too). Pro capture is most useful, but many existing higher end models from other brands already have that, with fast readout sensors (like the Z8/9).
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Feb 10, 2024 13:40:07   #
"Only from the mind of MINOLTA!"

You're probably better off buying a 5+ year old used smartphone and use the camera and other apps.

I wouldn't pay more than $29 for that junk.
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Feb 10, 2024 13:31:56   #
BebuLamar wrote:
I don't know for sure but I don't think threre is a DX lens that is shaft drive?


I don't think so either - all of the DX lenses I have seen are more recent vintage either AF-S or AF-P.
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Feb 10, 2024 13:25:56   #
You would just have to put the Z6 or any FF Nikon in crop mode to use DX lenses, otherwise the image would have vignetting - black corners. In DX mode the Z6 is about 10 mp. You will also need the FTZ adapter to use any of the F mount lenses. Best to use FF lenses with the Z6, whether F or Z mount.
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Feb 6, 2024 08:41:50   #
Kbose wrote:
First- I am new to photography. About 3-4 years ago I bought an Olympus OM-D E-M10III. That is when I found this website.

I use this camera to take photos of hair (I'm a hair stylist) & salon related things and sometimes photos of my dog. But that is it. I'm not a pro by any means. I still don't understand all the things on my camera... I turn things and press things until the hair through my camera looks like the hair through my eyes.

I tell you all that so that you understand that I am a dumbass when it comes to this stuff.

My mother has given me her dad's (my papaw's) Minolta XG-1 camera.
She believes the lenses are interchangeable.

The Minolta has a MD135 F2 lens and a Kiron 28-105f/3.2-4.3 lens.

I tried, not very hard bc I don't want to break anything, to put the Kiron lens on my Olympus. The Kiron manual does say it is compatible with the Olympus but, I mean... there's 35-40 year difference between my camera and my papaw's.

So, my very uneducated questions are as follows: (and yes, I could google this, but I don't know what is good and trustworthy info and what isn't; that's why I'm here asking yous)

1) Can I use the Minolta & Kiron lenses on my Olympus? Is there an attachment for it?

2) The very little that I have read about the Minolta camera and lenses, it seems like people are still using this camera or at least the lenses.... Is the photography world still using film camera? Like I said, I am a dumbass in this world. I barely dabble in this world.

3) Can I use the Minolta? Where do I buy the film? How do I do the film development?
Is there a way to not use film? (I am going to assume the answer is "No" to this question, but I'm asking anyways)

4) I also have a Canon Video recorder---- is there a way to attach the Minolta & Kiron lenses to it? I have not tried this... I just thought about it.

Thank you for helping me.
I hope you got a little giggle out of my uneducated photo related questions.
First- I am new to photography. About 3-4 years ag... (show quote)


It amazes me but when I discuss the subject with some friends and family members, they think all bayonet type lenses are the same and can be interchanged across all brands Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax,etc. In an ideal world you could take any lens and mount it on any body - as you expect a common light bulb can screw into any socket (at least in North America and elsewhere). All the majors have their own lens mount standards and proprietary mechanical and electrical designs which are usually patented. So you can't take a Nikon F mount lens and directly slap it on your OM-D camera, but via an adapter it is possible because the focal plane distance can be extended on the SLR lens - in a few cases AF and lens/exposure metadata can be communicated to the camera.

But, as pointed out in the discussions that almost any lens can be adapted to a mirrorless body, especially the DSLR type lenses to a mirrorless mount. In some cases manufacturers have adopted a defacto standards such as M42 screw mount (really old), Pentax/Ricoh K mount, L mount alliance, Leica M mount, etc., and of course the micro 4/3 mount which is shared between Olympus and Panasonic/Lumix. Yes, one of the big benefits with mirrorless over DSLR is being able to use almost any lens, vintage or new, from other manufacturers. I am beginning to experiment in this area as well with my Nikon Z's.
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Feb 4, 2024 10:04:34   #
Safety should always be on our minds whatever we're doing - driving, using power tools or photo gear. First, protect ourselves, as that is not replaceable, then protect our expensive gear. Always think "What could happen next?"

Many years ago, after coming back from a trip, I put a bag which had my SLR camera and lens in it. The bag was top heavy, and as soon as I walked away from the table, the bag toppled, and the camera/lens fell on a hard floor - both broke and I did not bother to fix them and just got a new one.

Vahagan on his YT channel mentioned in a recent vlog a few months ago about guarding your expensive gear in questionable, crime ridden areas (big cities usually). If they see expensive gear, that will attract the eyes of thieves and muggers, and they may even kill you if you're alone. Be careful when carrying or moving equipment car to site or anywhere, and back.

Recently, Matt Granger made a vlog about how he damaged his Z9 camera by dropping it on hard soil - fortunately not concrete. But the shock was enough to jar the protective shutter out of alignment. Sometimes we are so focused on getting the shot (or FOMO) that we disregard safety and accidents happen. Drops and bangs are the most common ways expensive equipment gets damaged, as well as for our bodies!

Gravity sucks and doesn't respect age, gender, intelligence or lack thereof, or anything else - Newton's Law of Gravity!
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Feb 4, 2024 08:21:27   #
I'd rather get all my toenails plucked one by one, slowly, with needle nose pliers, than get any Sony camera equipment. Who cares what they are using on the sidelines at events? It's interesting but that only means to me they are all lemmings. Ok let the bar fight begin!
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Feb 4, 2024 08:01:28   #
Freak accidents and many avoidable ones happen all the time. Let's not be so focused through our viewfinders, that we lose sense of all else....


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Feb 3, 2024 15:59:33   #
User ID wrote:
You few relics very simply do not constitute a fiscally significant market segment, and that dooms any la-la land misty dreams of a grand return to the ways of ancient inferior devices.


Cool! I loved OM Zuiko lenses! Relic may be too strong of a word - maybe "nostalgic" or "retro".
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Feb 3, 2024 15:22:35   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Honestly, if you need a center-frame split prism to manually focus on a modern digital technology marvel of a mirrorless camera, you're doing it wrong.

Instead, you should:

a) consider your composition and tap your touch screen to place your AF point of focus as appropriate for the composition, anyplace other than the frame center.

b) raise your camera to your eye in a shooting position and 'pop' the EVF to the 10x zoom of the details where you've set the AF point, aka focus magnification.

c) carefully and precisely focus your MF legacy lens for the details using the 100% zoomed view of the subject.

Capture the image, letting the zoomed view drop back to the full-screen view of the composition. Regarding the colored shimmer showing the plane of focus, aka focus peaking in the mirrorless EVF, this really only works well when MF lens is precisely focused via focus magnification. Go into your user manual and find how to set the peak color (shimmer) to the maximum / extreme / highest setting. Consider using red instead of yellow or white. Once the MF lens is focused for the composition, that shimmering color can now be used to track any subtle changes to the focus (forward or backward) of where the lens is currently focused for the current composition. The 'maximum' setting makes the plane of focus rather obvious in the EVF.

Finally, for focus magnification, consider having this tool assigned on an external button so you 'pop' the EVF by pressing that (re)programmed button, again with the camera held to your eye in a shooting position. Ideally, you can go from 0% zoom to 100% with one press. Alas, you might need to cycle a few steps to the max 100%. Check your User's Manual for confirmation.
Honestly, if you need a center-frame split prism t... (show quote)


You illustrate my point about the simplicity of the old split/micro prism SLR film days....

What you're saying above involves too many buttons and screen interactions.

Contrast this with my experience in the film days with my OM cameras -

1. Aim the split/prism on the desired focus point/subject,focus
2. Recompose, if necessary. (Exposure would be A or pre-set on manual).
3. SHOOT!

That's it! 99% of my shots were always in focus. I used lenses from 20 mm up to 500mm (mirror). I would say with the extremes - ULTRA wide or fish eye, and super tele beyond 500mm I would say the prism/split had a disadvantage but that was only due to the optical nature of the focusing screen, which could be circumvented with digital and software these days. The only other issue I had in rare instances would be long-throw lenses (such as the 500mm mirror), but I would get around that with pre-focusing if I could, or just use another lens.

Today, we have gone Rube Goldberg it seems with manual focusing on digital cameras, which is fine, but I think simpler modes should be added to the mix, along with the method you describe above and focus peaking/magnification. It's all about OPTIONS in my book.

So what are the odds that Nikon will add the split/micro prism soft option in their next firmware update ?
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Feb 2, 2024 09:47:59   #
The Question is...... Is being a Pro Photographer getting paid, and if you no longer are freelancing or a hired pro - is a person at that point, now an Amateur again?

If you use a lens longer than 8 inches, you are a professional....joking aside...

If you do photography to pay the bills and eat, you are a pro photographer, if you are doing it on a regular, full time basis. If you stop doing that and are now making a living doing something else, you can say "former pro photographer". I think we often mix up "pro" to mean the type and quality of pictures we take, the equipment we use, versus doing that and making money to survive on. We can be "pro level" photo enthusiasts if we take great pictures, have expensive equipment, big lenses, but are not depending on that activity to eat and pay bills. One time I was taking bird pics with my D7200 and Tamron 150-600 lens (big lens with the hood on) and someone asked me "Are you a pro photographer?" I said "no just an enthusiast". If you are a professional and stop doing it I would put on my resume or CV - "former pro photographer" or "retired pro photographer". Although you could say it I would avoid the term "amateur".
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Feb 2, 2024 09:25:10   #
richandtd wrote:
Why no eject card from file explorer



Some types of media don't offer an "eject" option and I suspect it's a Windoze quirk (driver developer call). In cases where you don't see an "eject" option it's safe to pull the media provided the last write cycle is completely finished, as determined by the drive activity light and windows file explorer. Check for no activity for at least 5 seconds, close any open instances of the drive letter, or any apps using the drive, then pull media. Also in cases where you are just reading the files to check or copy contents, you can usually pull the media with or without an eject option.

This anomaly usually occurs with "smart" drives or card readers that self-manage the files on the attached media. I recently got a case for NVME drives in which I installed a 2TB NVME drive - I now have a portable 2TB drive I connect via USB-A 3.x or USB-C. It also has a built in super capacitor so that even if the drive is disconnected abruptly, it still functions for a few seconds to finish writing of files (provided it is almost done writing). However I never tested that but it also never displays an "eject" option in file explorer - I just wait until the drive is finished writing and then disconnect.
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Feb 1, 2024 05:47:00   #
nimbushopper wrote:
Can anyone I'd this lens? It's a 100mm f2.5 but has no manufacturer markings on it.


Well, it was calibrated by the FBI
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