Off level. Post processing needed to get the detail you need. If the mist intrigued you, you might consider making it more visible. Again, do it in post processing. The clouds at the top are a distraction since you didn't capture them entirely. Study before you make your photograph. You should download the image when seeking assistance.

Try these guys...http://www.acratech.net/. Leveling base with quick release clamp, pan tripod head (I don't use their ball head...I use their Panoramic Head) and L bracket along with quick release plates for my cameras (they make these to fit specific cameras). I got a nodal rack, which I use very little; I don't think you need that unless you're doing close work and know the nodal points for your lenses. I've used this setup for small pans (4 to 6 images) and for what, for me, are large horizontal pans (up to 24 images and around 18 feet in length); it works very well. Easy to level, easy to rotate with engraved calibrated degree markings, easy to set up (I leave mine set up and on my tripod). The plates fit my cameras exactly and are not obtrusive; I leave them on all the time as well. Not cheap, but the benefit is worth it. Check it out.

I've gone on what I've planned to be short drives or motorcycle rides only to take turn offs; see something and U-turn, U-turn back; see another and, at the end of the day...some 13 hours and 600 miles later (in the car, not the motorcycle!)...get home to a cold meal and not-so-happy, but still loving, wife.

I'm happy to have been able to help! Now love the camera!

On back of camera, The DISP/ISO button with the self timer and shooting mode. Press the self timer shooting mode...the 9-o'clock position on the ring. You'll see different shooting modes. Scroll down. You'll see bracket mode. I think you're in one of the bracket modes. You probably want to be in the single shot mode, which is the top "box" icon. Happened to me. I love the Sony products, but their menus are so unwieldy. Good luck!

Every time I see your work, I ask myself "How the heck does he do that!?" And I never have an answer. Your techniques produce photographs that easily qualify as absolutely stunning. And I still don't know how the heck you do that!

I agree...just found them and ordered straps and hand grips. Best I've found...no more additions to my failed strap and grip collection!

Large edited images. Neither the image file size (was it a flat file or layered and, if layered, how many layers) nor image size was indicated...unless I missed it. I don't see that my response...which was intended to help by pointing out different storage options for large files, regardless of file type...was improper.

If a jpeg and you have Bridge, you can open the jpeg in camera RAW and make any needed corrections as if working a RAW file. Not optimal...RAW is best...but I've had to use it when I've switched to jpeg for shapshots and forgotten to switch back to RAW. Try it. Or, there are several ways to do it in Photoshop with selection tools or just creating a curves layer and painting in your correction.

Among others, I make very large panoramic photographs...final native sizes range from 5 feet by around 30 inches to 13 feet by 30 inches. I save the first image with all its RAW image layers as a Photoshop psb file (PhotoShopBig) so I can always go back and work from the original files if I want. I then flatten that first image and do my post work on that file, saving the image either as a psb or psd (don't know what the "d" stands for) file. Photoshop limits the size you can store in different formats, so I just default to those. For printing, I save the final as a tiff, whether I'm printing myself or using my outside printer (Ron Landucci of Infinite Editions, an outstanding printer who prints for international photographers). Lots of files, large files, taking a lot of storage space, but worth it if I want to do as Ansel Adams often did: revisit an image and see it differently than initially.

Last used? Condition of the lenses? Are they clear? Any fungus? Are they working accurately? The holders look like they've been used hard...are they intact? Often old the tape on the film insert end cracks/breaks and the slide brushes start to disintegrate. Bellows look good in the bottom photo, but in the top photo, the camera looks kind of dusty. Rate the condition, please. The 90 requires either a recessed board or the ability to slide the front standard back; does this work? I believe on this camera, the bed should drop. While a good price for all this, not so if the condition requires work, which is expensive. I could drive to pick up.

I have the SP3 and have been really happy with it. I used it the first time for PP about a year ago when I made a 15-photograph pan of one of the barrier islands of the coast of North Carolina. The island is 26 miles long. After topping the bridge over the intercostal waterway and moving down to get the composition exactly as I wanted it, I made 15 photos with my Sony Rx100 M3 (I was traveling to help my mom-on-law prepare her property to sell and had brought only that little gem with me from Denver area). I wanted to see it, so I downloaded Photoshop and was absolutely blown away by the performance of the SP3. It did the stitch in a flash! Granted this is a 1-inch sensor, but 15 images...a final image that was 8-feet wide! Blew me away. I had the image printed and mounted on Aluminum. It now hangs in my mom-in-laws bedroom at our place where she is now a guest for life. I'd love to get the bigger SP4 or the newer SP Book. They're great!

Perspective crop tool straightened the leaning wall. I thought the houses and other content to the right of the walk was distracting. Just my 2 cents.

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If you work with RAW files, you should do so with this image. You can make dramatic improvements just in the first RAW screen...making adjustments for exposure, contrast, whites, blacks and sharpness. The image has a lot of noise also; you can also reduce that using the tools in RAW. You can then do some local adjustments in the bird when you open in Photoshop. I don't know if this is a help, but I did just what I suggest by opening your download in RAW, making those adjustments, then a curves adjustment in Photoshop on just the bird and isolating and darkening the background to give better separation with the bird. I'm not a bird person, but to me, this looks better...more contrast, better sharpness, still noise, but to me, nicer because it's darker, and better separation of the bird from its surrounds.

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I took a look. WOW!!! Anyone looking at the range of photos you make with the RX100 M3 and M4 will see just how outstanding a camera it is. Good technology working for a great photographer!