For myself, and I think the rest of the community we wish you, your family and colleagues well.

In this age of divisiveness it’s nice to be inclusive.

It was a pleasure visiting your store a few years ago.

Happy Holidays to all.

Peter ff

Ahh. I didn’t see that. I’m currently rebuilding my main computer, and chose a cpu that only has physical cores, but can be over clocked. We’ll have to see how that goes.

Good luck with your tests.

“This brings up something else that Hershel told us - many times an employee would rather NOT make a sale than to sell a customer something that is either not suitable or not needed.”

I learned that approach many years ago when selling high end computer graphics equipment. The second and subsequent sales are far more productive than the “drop the gear and run” approach.

It’s nice to know that honesty, integrity, and ethics still exist in our world. I visited B&H some years ago, not for a tour, but was very impressed with what I saw.

It inspired trust, which is rare in today’s world.

Doesn’t it depend mostly on whether your apps take advantage of multithreading? Some do, some don’t.

My first wife's brother had one on a Leica -RAF officer, bought in Hong Kong- quite an amazing thing. I'm pretty happy with a Canon FL f/1.2 adapted for EOS.

So how did it work out?

My choice would be Marin headlands, or possibly Land’s End.
Even Baker Beach if you want to photograph in the raw.

Parking may be problematic at any suitable location, I would recommend arriving early to stake out your spot.

Good luck

To the best of my knowledge many of the Rokinon/Bower/Vivitar fisheye lenses are made by Samyang and rebranded. I have one under the Vivitar brand. It was inexpensive (~ $175 ) and I really like it. I have the Canon version ( T3i / 80D ). I like super wide lenses for some things, also have the EF-S 10 - 22 for rectilinear vs. barrel distortion. They are both excellent lenses in my opinion and are part of my standard grab bag of gear.

Typically I don’t correct for distortion in post processing, just pick the lens for the effect that I want.

Good luck!

Agreed. I have the original 70-300 IS, which was one if the earlier IS lenses I believe. It's a nice lens, but quite old now. It still does a decent job, but the version II is optically superior.

I would also be careful with screw in 'wide angle/telephoto' filters/lenses. The cheap ones often compromise image quality. Canon makes some dual element ones, which do a good job without compromising image quality, but they are not inexpensive.

Given Angee's accessibility problems -sorry to hear about that- I would think carefully about macro, since proximity is often required. That can be controlled for inanimate objects, but is tricky for insects and so on given restrictions.

Macro lenses tend to be a little more costly than 'regular lenses' since they are typically designed to give a 'flat field' which requires a slightly higher quality optical design. I have the EF-S 60mm, which is an excellent lens, but if I was doing it again I would buy a 100mm macro. It does work well for portraits etc., but you have to get so close it can spook living creatures.

I would recommend looking at the UHH macro section, and others that interest you (Angee) so that you can learn steadily before spending money. Photography can be costly, and assuming that you (Angee) are probably working on a limited budget, I would experiment to find out what the equipment can do, but more importantly can not do. That may help to decide where best to spend money.

I wish you (Angee) well with your journey.

Best, Peterff

I would recommend pass. The EF 75-300 III does not have image stabilization, is widely regarded as one of Canon’s worst lenses and without IS a telephoto can be hard to get good results with.

The two lenses you mention may have the same aperture range, (widest f stop) but the focal length numbers are what to pay attention to for different types of lenses.

I see you have an SL2, which seems like a good choice. The EF-S 18-55 is a decent enough lens. STM refers to the kind of motor used for autofocus. It is relatively fast and very quiet, which is good for video amongst other things.

Personally I would save your money for something else, and spend your time learning how to get the best out of the equipment that you already have.

Good luck

So what specific parameters are you referring to? And for whom? What specific requirements make the 90D so superior to the 80D?

Can you clarify please?

Are you traveling alone? If not you can share the carry on / under seat options? Gate checking is a good option, since you check your stuff at the gate, and collect it when you get off the plane. I've found it safe and trustworthy. Soft cases for your lenses could work.

Good luck

I'm a long time Canon guy, from 1976 with an AE-1 and 1986 with a T90. I bought a refurb 80D from Canon a little over a year ago, which I am very pleased with. The investment in glass / system is frequently much greater than the camera. The refurb deals on the 80D aren't as good as they were a week or so ago, but still good value.

I think the future is mirrorless, but not for several years. Consider the 80D

Good luck

I would imagine that barrel distortion could be a bigger problem...

I use Magic Lantern on a T2i and a T3i. No problems, and it is definitely useful. If it was available for my 80D I would use it, but I doubt that it ever will be.

What camera(s) are you considering using it on?

Peterff