One advantage of the cell phone, or maybe disadvantage is, due to the smallish sensor the lens is of a shortish focal length therefore giving you a greater dof so evert thing is in focus.
As mentioned before, The Baader AstroSolar (tm.) Safety film is the most economical way to go. It renders the sun in it's truest color. I got a sheet through B&H, I think. One sheet is enough to make a filter to fit over a large lens hood, to cover a pair of binoculars and have enough to make a pair of glasses.
The Orion Solar Filter that I have, cost about $80.00 was to dark to make a proper exposure.
Also mentioned was the use of ND filters. I used a ten and three stop stack to photograph the Transit of Venus. It worked ok. but I do not recommend using this method.
A welding lens, a number 16 or higher? will also work but with a color cast
On occasion when trying to use the crop straighten tool I have slid the exposure slider all the way over, straightened and cropped the image then returned the exposure slider back to its starting point.
I see, moving the exposure slider down the crop/straighten grid will then show up as white. So move the exposure slider "all the way over" to the negative and the crop grid lines appear as white.
I got one of these cute little dudes because it looked like a really simple and quick way to do slides. The results are disappointing: it is easy and quick to use, but images have less dynamic range and are softer than I get with my little Epson V330 flatbed (which costs about the same) at 2400dpi. What's puzzles me is the Wolverine says the scan is at 20 Mpixel, and the files are indeed described by my computer as 5472 x 1856 --but the files are only 2.5 Mb .jpg's (there is some variation or course but it's small)! How can this be? Am I missing something?
I got one of these cute little dudes because it lo... (show quote)
You are confusing mega pixels with mega bytes and dots per inch with pixels per inch. If you whant your photos to have more mega bytes then convert your jpg to tiff.
To type in Photoshop I hit CTRL T. I then click where I want to type but, when I type rather than the letters I get a line like this _____. What is suppressing the type.
I'll get it right sooner or later :oops:
Perhaps the size of your fount is to small, so small that the letters look like a line?
I thought that the foil pouch, wrapper that the film is packed in will protect it from x-ray fogging. It is the opened and exposed but not yet processed film that may be fog by x-ray exposure.
I purchased an interval timer for my Canon T3. I have gotten the programming down pretty well. Now, I'd like for someone here on UHH to give me (and others that have one) some ideas about setting the camera up for some night photos to produce some light-trails, etc. I hope someone on the site could direct me to this information that might ba available here, or tell me where I can find it. Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.
Hswader here.
For stars, star trail or meteors, I have used, open 20 seconds with one second between exposures. 17-35 mm lens, f2.8 @1600 iso. That should give you a good starting point.
jljl This may be a dumb question, but is the speed light fully on the hot shoe. Some times when I am using a flash or trigger and things do not work or just don't make sense a firm push seats the flash and all is good:)
I have a commemorative T shirt from Dwayne's Camera in Parsons Kansas, and it states the final roll made history being developed on December 30, 2010. So timing IS right. Duane