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May 24, 2014 16:40:45   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Business Card Advice
mikesphotos wrote:
So my only question is: when the person emails you how do you identify which picture might be theirs?


You don't. You put up a gallery of everything you shot at that event, and you let THEM choose what they want and how many.
You can also put other things in your price list like coffee mugs and jewelry.
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May 24, 2014 16:30:56   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Still foreground with blurred movement in background
BobHartung wrote:
First, shoot at wide aperature to limit DOF.
Second, try to get to 1/30 second. You should be able to do this is you have image stabilization on your camera.

F/4 at 1/3 sec would be ideal. May have to go to iso 100 or even 50 depending on the light. Alternative is to add ND filters.

HTH


Any shot like this would use a tripod, therefore Image Stabilization is unnecessary/irrelevant. Actually, I make sure it's OFF when using a monopod/tripod.
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May 24, 2014 16:25:48   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Question for Wedding Photographers
stichn56 wrote:
When I first started out I went to a barnes and noble store to look for something that could give me a guide for photographing weddings. I found a publication called Easy Wedding Planning. It has information that will guide you in a general order of shooting the ceremony. Also, who are you working with ? In other words, Who's the "wedding Planner? " They may give you some input as to how they may want the order of things. An important tip, try to arrange all of your pose shots at the ceremony before going to reception with fam, friends, etc with the bride and groom. This way, if the reception is at a different location , you can enjoy the flavor of the wedding and bride and groom will feel relaxed as well.Heree are a sample of a wedding I shot for a friend last September.
When I first started out I went to a barnes and no... (show quote)


No pics.
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May 24, 2014 16:23:34   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Problems uploading photos from camera to computer
James R wrote:
If you are using a C.S. card, I would suggest using the C.S. slot on your Lap-Top.


You DO mean an 'SD' card, right?
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May 24, 2014 16:16:01   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Needed high resolution Wurlitzer juke box photo.
GordonB. wrote:
To be candid, I'd consider it an honor that anyone would even want it as it's so poorly done.

Gordon


And THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is what's screwed up about the photography industry right now.
"OH, I'm so pleased that someone would want my image. Take it for free!"
So, when someone says 'Pay me to use my image", the ones wanting to use the image get bent out of shape, or just steal it.
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May 24, 2014 16:06:55   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Help needed for air show
rizer wrote:
For panning photos of an air show, should I be in shutter priority? If so, what shutter speed? I believe I also should have continuous shot (instead of singe shot). Any suggestions would be appreciated.


My recommended minimum shutter speed for planes in-flight would be 1/400th.

BUT, that also depends on what lens you're using, and how high an ISO you're willing to use.

Listing your gear would really assist us in giving you good advice.
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May 24, 2014 16:03:53   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Problem downloading photos
Searcher wrote:
Win 7, Control Panel, Autoplay

scroll down to Pictures, and click the down arrow on the bar. You should find several different options, one of which is "Import Pictures and Videos using Windows"

Save (bottom of screen)

Now insert card into slot and the pop menu should appear.


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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May 24, 2014 16:02:39   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
LR5 lens profile question
avengine wrote:
I just use the sigma 18-250 for all the photos in nikon d5100, the only change is jpg at first few of them then change back to raw for the rest. when I import did ask for use dng, but as usual that jpg would not change to dng anyway. would that be the problem?


YES!!!!!!

To get the maximum ability out of LightRoom, you MUST shoot RAW. As soon as you do in-camera jpg, you've lost an incredible amount of information.
I now NEVER shoot jpg, only RAW. RAW image files are larger, but so what. Memory is CHEAP. Buy more memory!
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May 24, 2014 15:55:56   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Picasa Question
Jane Parker wrote:
After editing photos in Picasa, I use an Epson program (Epson printer) to print on a CD or DVD. Problem is, the photo(s) i select to print on the disk, are always the original photo, not the edited one(s)? How do I get an edited photo on the disk?


It sounds like what you're doing is using something other than Picasa to do the CD/DVD burning.
You can't do that unless you've 'Exported' the edited images.
Picasa works like some of the better programs in that it is totally non-destructive. That is, it keeps the original files intact and then keeps the edit instructions separate.

What *I* do, is make an 'Album' of the current project, and then burn a disk DIRECTLY from *that* album in Picasa.
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May 24, 2014 15:42:39   #
(Sports Photography)
My first submission to UHH.
Classic7 wrote:
David,
Thanks so much for the positive feedback.
When I first posted it I wasn't very happy
Feeling the feedback was a little hash. I stopped
viewing UHH. I'm still new at this. I'm still learning.
I don't always know exactly what my settings
are, but I have ideas. Thanks for the positive
Feedback.


Just for next time, if you tick the 'store original' box when you attach a pic, we can click on the link and get the full size image with all the Exif data (camera settings and information) intact.
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May 22, 2014 22:21:31   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
I need Photoshop Help....
anthonyedler wrote:
I have Photoshop version 8... yes, it is old. I need to update and I would like to know the latest version which will be self-standing and not need the Cloud (which requires a monthly charge). Your help in finding an inexpensive version would also be appreciated. I am running a Mac with version OSX 10.6.8, which runs smooth as silk. Tony


I still don't get why people are SO against a month-to-month subscription!
For $10 a month, you get the latest version of PS Creative Suite, AND the latest version of LightRoom, AND some online storage.
It'll take you over 5 years to recoup the difference between doing that and buying it outright. And by then, you'll have needed to upgrade at least once, to get all the bug fixes and new features!
And, even though it's called 'Creative Cloud', the software is downloaded to your computer, and can be used for a little over 30 days without having to connect to the internet.
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May 22, 2014 22:07:51   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Using Nikon SU800 with the SB-600
dcampbell52 wrote:
You can cheat and put the SB800 in SU-4 mode which will make it respond to ANY flash. Makes it a dumb slave. Beware as it will also fire for point and shoots and any other camera flashes in range, but it will allow you to use both speedlights.


But, that makes it a 'dumb' slave.
To get TTL operation and vary the speedlite's output from the camera, you must use the Commander/Remote operation of the CLS
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May 21, 2014 20:27:35   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Need help figuring out a slave problem
twillsol wrote:
You have to have a flash in "command" mode to fire the flash that is in the slave mode. I don't believe that the flash on the 5100 camera has that capability. You can use "triggers" to do this. There are many models to choose from.


Wrong.
That's ONLY if you were trying to use a Nikon Speedlite in 'Remote' using the CLS (Creative Light System).

The 565 must be in S2 mode if you're using TTL on the D5100.
That means it will ignore the 'pre-flash' that the 5100 will do to guage the exposure and limit red-eye. Better to do Manual flash on the D5100, set as low as you can, and set the 565 to S1 mode.

The SB20 will require a separate optical slave trigger.
Like this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/980199-REG/dot_line_dl_0130_s_ir_flash_trigger_with.html
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May 21, 2014 20:09:30   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Using Nikon SU800 with the SB-600
GoofyNewfie wrote:
First of all, do you have an SB 800 Speedlight or an SU 800 Commander unit?
They are two different beasts.
I suspect you are talking about the SB 800.

The SB 600 does not have a commander (master) mode, so it cannot be used to control the SB 800.

Setting up the SB 800 as a master here: link

Setting up the SB 600 as a remote here: link
Note: I have never used the SB600 as a remote (I use SB 800's and 910)- someone jump in and correct this if it's not right.
First of all, do you have an url=http://imaging.n... (show quote)


I have a few SB-800's and a couple of SB-600's.
You've got it right.

I have D200's which have Commander mode on their pop-ups, but my D2Xs doesn't HAVE a pop-up as it's a pro-level body (neither do D3's or D4's).
So....On the D2Xs, I HAVE to use an SB-800 as a Commander to set off the other 800's or 600's. Or use my my wireless triggers if I don't care about TTL.
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May 21, 2014 19:48:00   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Question about lens for indoor wedding shots
Beercat wrote:

I figure the 86-150 mm range will work well sitting on the front row area or off to the side a bit.


There are those who will take a shot at me for saying this, but.....

If YOU aren't' 'THE PHOTOGRAPHER', then it would be a lot better if you just sat yourself down and be there for the B&G.

Don't be the guy in the photo halfway down the page.
http://www.digitalweddingforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376032&page=2&p=4574597&highlight=uncle%20bob#post4574597

And if you *ARE* 'THE PHOTOGRAPHER', then 'Good Luck, and God help you'. 'Cuz you're gonna need it.
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