I have done some research on what I think will work for what I want to do. I am going to buy a 3 stop filter and a 6 stop filter and stack them if I need more. I'm willing to go up to $100 per filter tops. I want to know from you experienced long exposure guys what filters I should buy. I heard to stay away from Tiffen and then someone showed a pic they took with a Tiffen and it was great. I heard the Hoyas are good. I downloaded that free e book from the guys from x filters that showed thier filters have no red or yellow hues like some other filters. So with all this info floating around what should I buy?

It's called "Product Placement". It's not free advertising. It's a practice that is quite common for TV and movies. Been going on for decades. Manufacturers pay for their products to be seen in shows and movies. If a TV production has a particular prop they wish to use they will contact the manufacturer. If they pay a fee the product name will be displayed. Otherwise, it's blacked out. Likewise, if a show is sponsored by a particular manufacturer any competing products, if used, will be disguised. Remember "Wilson" in Castaway with Tom Hanks? A good deal of money changed hands or that probably would have been George the soccer ball or whatever. Many manufacturers actively seek these opportunities on successful series, such a NCIS with their Nikon cameras, and in the movies. Watch a home improvement show sometime and see how many tools have tape on their name. It's not greed. It's simple business. If you have something of value you charge for it when you are in business. You don't give it away.

I am not a good BIF shooter but I do know human physiology. Any aiming at a moving target with any instrument involves anticipating. You have to aim at where you think the target will be when the shutter releases. In other words you have to lead the target. Just ike shootion ducks with a shotgun. If you aim at the duck you will never eat duck. Same with a camera. You also must use the fastest shutter speed possible with the least noise posible. Getting back to physiology-It takes the muscles about 300 milliseconds to react. By the time you can pull the trigger and the time you see the bird about 1/3 of a second goes by. If the bird is flying at 30mph,about 40 feet per second adds to the lead time. so therefore you have to lead the bird by about 2/3 of a second. To sum it all up, it's damn difficult. Thats why it's so often frustrating and why I am not a very good BIF photographer