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Oct 13, 2015 09:54:14   #
collhart wrote:
I have the latest version of LR. Just recently installed. I uploaded from my card reader some recent pictures. They get to Library no problem. Go to the collection I want, no problem. The collection count indicates the number of pictures imported. When I click on Develop all the pictures go black..nada...nothing. No Histogram...nothing. Cannot bring to Photoshop under the edit, no picture shows up.
Should I uninstall and reinstall? If so how do I do that? I do subcribe to Adobe Cloud......Thank You in advance for any help.
I have the latest version of LR. Just recently ins... (show quote)


Your description of the problems suggests you are a new user to LR. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Open LR in the Library, in the left panel choose Catalog > All Photographs

Select one of the Photos (make the border white)
Change the module to Develop

Is the image showing in the Develop Module?
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Oct 12, 2015 18:48:56   #
John_F wrote:
Hey, Searcher - as long as you have both in PS travel the cursor over same places and see if the RGB values alter. My theory is an UV filter might slop over into the violet end so the Blue channel values might be different.


The RGB values did not alter at all at the centre of the image, but there is some kind of image shift. This could be due to a tiny magnification change when the filter was either fitted or removed, by a touch on the zoom.

When I checked the green leaves, there is a very tiny change in the RGB values.

The highlights have the most significant change, but mainly in brightness values.

I restate my position: based on the original two posts, from a practical point of view there is hardly any difference between with and without a filter.

Yes, I can see differences, but that is by enlarging to 300% or greater and using the sophisticated tools in Photoshop to show those differences.
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Oct 12, 2015 13:26:11   #
Tsliva has given the answer I would have suggested. though I would also suggest that in LR > Edit > Preferences > External Editing tab, the first block should be "Edit in Photoshop CC . . ." ensure colour space is Adobe Prophoto RGB.

LR Develop Module operates in ProPhoto, so the Edit in should also be ProPhoto as should Photoshop.

This reduces all the converting of Colour spaces to one, that is at Export, for printing and web, sRGB is the one to choose.
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Oct 12, 2015 12:24:24   #
Linda Ewing wrote:


PS Can't open LR CC for some reason, I purposely haven't updated too!!! Oh well you lose some and win some.


Try signing out, reboot, sign in again. sometimes works.

Don't update unless you have been shopping for new cameras. The update contains very minor improvements and a huge decline in import flexibility. That is apart from all the crashes it has caused (mainly Macs).
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Oct 12, 2015 12:04:33   #
Linda Ewing wrote:
I have two desktop Macs and a macbook pro - the problem I am having is with the brush tool on both the desktops - it works fine on my laptop.

When I try to make a brush adjustment, no matter what I do with the sliders, nothing seems to happen, can any hogs help with this matter, it is driving me mad. Thank you


Choose the Brush
Check flow etc.
Check mask on and paint
UNCHECK THE MASK
Move the sliders
Done
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Oct 11, 2015 19:45:50   #
It would play havoc with Depth of Field calculations
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Oct 11, 2015 18:19:14   #
Jim Bob wrote:
Searcher, better be careful to whom you make that last statement. They will come after you with spears, baseball bats, tire irons and anything else they can use to inflict injury. The quality of the filter makes a big difference, in my humble opinion.
:D :-D


I say bring it on - and there is the Atlantic Ocean between us.

You right though, the notorious question is "Would you put a cheap piece of glass on an expensive lens?" Those people asking just have not thought it through:

A 12 element telephoto lens may cost $1200 and consists of:

12 lenses mounted into precision engineered mounts
A body with a camera mount and filter threads
A focus motor
A stabilising motor
An electronic or mechanical Aperture
Exterior controls and cosmetic designs

Deduct the cost of all except for one piece of glass and its local mounting and you are left with (roughly) the same cost as a good filter in its mount.
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Oct 11, 2015 17:45:58   #
rmalarz wrote:
Hi, Searcher.
Thanks for the compliment.

To answer your question, unfortunately no I didn't.

As an aside, I'm about to post a rather lengthy write up regarding what all was involved in setting the camera and taking that photograph. It'll be titled something to the effect of "Why is this Photograph Green" or something along those lines.
--Bob


I look forward to it.
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Oct 11, 2015 17:34:53   #
Jim Bob wrote:
MW, Searcher, Oldtigger and others I deeply appreciate your time, attention and contributions to this topic. What is your guess as to how large a print would have to be to display the difference?


If you printed one of each at say 16x20" and the looked carefully, you will see a difference at the left and right sides. What I actually see when the image is stacked, is a lateral movement as though the image is wrapped around a cylinder.

Frankly, unless you were photographing a grid of fine lines, the distortion is not really noticeable. My wide angle lens (not a fisheye) has far more edge distortion than either of your photos depict.

I was looking at Oldtigger's comparisons, and the only obvious area that "shines" out is a bright spot in the second image which is located a short distance under the letter "d" This is darker in the "first". Again you would need a copy of each to spot the difference. I'm not using a high fidelity monitor, so spotting the sharpness difference I found "for me" impossible.

I don't own a clear or UV filter for every lens, but always use one in a dusty, salty or sandy environment.

I have never damaged a lens, but I have ruined a filter by enthusiastic cleaning with a lens pen!

The tests on your images I carried out with every intention of being able to say "a UV filter will degrade your image", but in all honesty, I can't say that.
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Oct 11, 2015 17:02:16   #
rmalarz wrote:

You are quite correct in your assessment of using both UniWB and EBTR, a lot of the first and just a touch of the second.
—Bob


EBTR is something I do a lot of the time, but I have no experience of UniWB. No disputing the outcome, excellent; did you shoot a "normal" exposed image by any chance?
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Oct 11, 2015 15:00:09   #
I use a matt black card about 24" x 36" behind the plants, this usually changes to a dark grey which is easy to select and change to solid black in PP.

The result is the flowers and foliage colours are as shot and there are no shadows even with a single diffused flash.

Have to take care that shadows are not cast from flowers in front to flowers behind.
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Oct 11, 2015 14:56:29   #
1 Shoot small jpegs
2 Make sure you are using the fastest card applicable to the camera
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Oct 11, 2015 14:25:33   #
I could not see a difference until:

I loaded both images into Photoshop and aligned them into a stack.

Toggle the visibility of the top layer on and off

The centre of the image stayed constant, but the left and right of the image showed considerable differences as in distortion between each other.

I still have no idea which one was shot with the filter, but the difference between the two is very easily seen.

Using the Difference Blending mode to check the alignment, most of the flowers from the centre out were aligned, but again left and right shows non alignment or colour differences.

Both images look good in their own right so my conclusion is that it really does not matter - the difference is not very significant on the screen. If making large prints, the distortion might show.
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Oct 11, 2015 12:25:46   #
The LR colour space is Adobe Pro-photo. Adjust the colour space in Photoshop to match.
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Oct 10, 2015 14:18:36   #
Three years ago I was producing calendars. They comprised 6 double sided calendar leaves, a single sided top cover and a plain thin card back cover. The gathering (collating) was accomplished on the press, they were wire bound with a hanging hook, shrink wrapped and packed in 25's for retail sales.

I was using a HP Indigo digital press for the printing

1000 calendars = 6500 (print 2 up) impressions at 65 imp. per minute

The paper used was ordinary coated paper (Indigos do not need ink jet paper) which of course helped keep the cost down.

Seven years ago when I started this, it was profit all the way, four years later, the prices customers were prepared to pay did not cover the costs.

An Indigo press is one of the more economical digital presses, (I was using an entry level machine), capital and running costs in the first year was over $200,000 - and that does not include paying the operator.

You can't use a home or office ink jet printer to produce such volumes and expect to make a profit unless you can sell each calendar at a very high price.
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