I have a D610 and use a variety of lenses (many older prime lenses) and AF lenses. For example, the Nikor 60mm f2.8D AF which I consider my walk around lens, is right on for auto focus without any fine tuning AF in the camera at least for this lens. I can blow up an image of a person where I have focused on the near eye, at say f4, until I see individual pixels on the back of the camera screen and the focus is sharp.

What lens combination was off focus? Was it a zoom lens?

I have been very happy with the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for a Nikon. While intended for a DX camera, without any filters on it, there is virtually no vignette at the edges when used at 16mm on a FX camera. It makes this lens very useful.

The Nikon 28mm f2.8 AIS manual focus produces great images. It offers very low distortion and is more affordable than the 20mm f2.8 (considering both used). Look for the AIS as I believe there were improvements over the AI version.

In my film and wet darkroom days, I shot with a Miranda. I then went through several different point & shoot digital cameras (Canon, etc.). When I decided to go to a DSLR with more capabilities/controls and interchangeable lenses, I looked around at the used lens availability ( and price) market for interchangeable lenses for either a Nikon or Canon DLSR. At that time these were to two dominant brands. I picked a Nikon camera based on the supply of used Nikon lenses that were in my view excellent quality glass for the money. A lot of used older prime Nikon lenses were, and still are, around for very reasonable prices as compared with new currently manufactured lenses. At that time I did not find used Canon lenses in much abundance. Although there has been some improvement in prime lenses (vibration compensation, some coatings), many of the older prime Nikon lenses still offer great image quality at a fraction of the price of comparable currently manufactured lenses. Generally the prime lenses I have hold their value. Camera bodies come and go and depreciate much more quickly.

I like the photos!

My only comment is that I found myself tilting my head as I looked at #1, i.e. the fog line is not horizontal. It could be that the photo is horizontal relative to the horizon (if we could see it) but in this case I think I would like #1 photo even more if the fog line was horizontal.

I have the Tokina lens and am very satisfied with it. In addition to using it on my D7000, it works great on my full frame D610 but only at 16mm; the other apertures start to show vignetting on a FF camera.

I second the comment on using cooling oil spray. I have a single stage Toro and find that spraying the shoot and blade before starting to blow snow helps a lot especially with wet snow.

The shell shot with reflection is my favorite. Still life shots made the same way usually turn out nice.

The first shot in the series (vases ) is one of the most challenging type of shots. The highly reflective surfaces of three objects close together make presenting a desirable reflection in all difficult. For example, seeing what appears to be a room with a door at the end as a reflection in the largest vase was not likely intended. My guess is that it would take a very large light box (many feet by many feet) surrounding the vases to totally control how the reflections on the vases appear and prevent the mirror effect showing what must have been behind the camera. The camera lens would just poke through an opening in the light room/translucent curtains so that even the behind the camera reflection is controlled. Lightening could come from speed lights with large light mods.

Notwithstanding this comment, a very nice job on the photos.

Another option is to use the B&W module (Silver Efex Pro 2) from the Nik software package, now made free by Google. If interested just search for it and download. It acts as a plugin to your main photo editing software, Photoshop Elements for me. It will provide a series of B&W screen views each with a corresponding set of presets. I usually pick the screen that is closest to the image I had in mind and then teak the slider settings of this preset to get the look I want. In general I have found the Nik software to be very good and easy to use. Before being made free, each module of the Nik software was sold separately and many reviews of these modules were favorable. Good luck.

I really like the image. Since you are looking for comments, my only suggestion would be if the same images were shot just after sunset, e.g about 15 minutes after, the background sky should have had some nice deep blue color. Of course, this assumes that you were at the location of the shot and had the opportunity to shoot at that time.

At least for Nikon cameras, having the box normally includes a serial number and a designation that indicates if the camera is a "US" model as opposed to a camera that was bought as a "grey" market camera, i.e. a camera intended by Nikon for sale outside the US. On some cameras it is hard, if not impossible, to tell if the camera is a US model. I am told it is sometimes hard to get Nikon to verify by a call if the serial number indicates a US model. Nikon USA does not sell repair parts for grey market cameras or service grey market cameras. Hence having a box that shows a US model designation tells the used camera buyer if the camera is a US model.