Sorry for the delay, bad day yesterday.

My V600 came with a plastic holder for 35mm film strips and some other sizes. The only glass is the flat bed of the scanner. The one or two negatives I have come across, floating loosely in a box, I simply placed on the glass bed, then converted to a positive image.

As I scan a group of photos, they all go into a "scan" file then later move them into specific "family" files where they also get renamed and notations made. I scan only the photo itself and not the boarder because I have found that including the boarder in the scan can alter the image. In PP I create a new border, making the bottom larger so that I can make notations as to who, where, when, etc.

I have one and it has been a great little camera. I have been using all my EF/EF/S lens with it using the Meike EF2R adapter with drop-in filters. I have yet to purchase any of the RF/RF-S lens. I still have my Canon 70D dSLR and want to be able to use the lens with it.

Here is a shot I took with the R50 using my EF mount Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary Lens back on Nov 4th 2023

I did do a sky replacement as the original images was a blah plain cloudy overcast day. Here is also the original image as it was taken.

I think it can get good photos, even though it isn't a full frame or has IBIS or some other bells and whistles and is not the most expensive mirrorless camera in Canon's line-up.

Best wishes to you no matter what model you end up choosing.

OK, why don't you just "be very intentional to use available camera adjustments to achieve usable JPEGs straight from the camera." Go for it. No one will know or care. It is your suggestion otherwise that is incorrect. Even if "the vocal majority" is "hostile" to the notion that acceptable JPEGs can be produced by cameras - I don't think most people here think that - so what? Who cares? What does that have to do with posting your images? People will judge the images by the images, not by your opinions about file formats.

I find the exact opposite to be true. I can scan a whole uncut 36 exposure roll in five minutes with the camera setup. If the film is in strips of six frames, add a few minutes.

With Negative Lab Pro 3.x, a plug-in for Lightroom Classic, I can have all the negatives' initial conversions done in another 10-15 minutes or so. Then they are ready for cull editing and fine tuning (cropping and spotting, masking, etc.) in LrC. I've done thousands of them this way.

I cut my teeth copying film to film in the 1980s for slide shows. Then I ran a high volume digital scan lab in the early 2000s, scanning several million portraits each Fall on nine long roll Kodak Bremson HR500 scanners (on three shifts, with three operators per shift, each running three scanners). So I'm very sensitive to anything that slows me down. The V600 was slow as molasses. It was fine for 120/220, but camera scanning is still faster.

In which case, mounting them on card stock and photographing them with a macro lens using a high CRI video light panel* works great. 25 years ago, when we did optical printing in the lab, all cut negatives were mounted on peg-registered cards with apertures in them that corresponded to various sizes of negatives and the printer lens decks needed to print them. While they are no longer made, you can design your own, print outlines of the format size on them with a laser or inkjet, then cut out the center of each format with a single-edge razor or X-Acto knife. We used a mylar tape to attach the negative to the side of the card facing the light source, and the emulsion side of the film facing the lens.

*Light source must be diffused with milk Plexiglass or Perspex.

Those with Epson V-800 and V850 scanners can get holders for film up to 4x5, sold on the Internet (Amazon).