My iPhone SE's charging socket is malfunctioning so it's finally time to replace it. After all these years of owning various iPhones, I rarely have used them as a camera until recently. But I've been surprised at how good some of these photos look. As a retired photojournalist, I am now an active fine art photographer shooting with two Fuji XT bodies and nearly all the Fuji X lenses. But I have decided to order the iPhone 11 Pro and really use its camera system seriously. No, this won't replace my Fuji system, but I want to hone my iPhone camera skills to see just how good this camera can be. And I'm sure there will be certain instances where I'll be glad I have a halfway decent camera with me when my Fuji kit is not.
Just a friendly FYI that Fuji refers to these as film simulations.
I haven’t heard of gstreamer, but perhaps the first time you use Photo Mechanic after installing it it has to build the initial thumbnails of all your files. Try opening a folder of just 25-40 files or so then starting sorting or rating them. Also go to it’s help section to set preferences properly for best performance. I’ve used Photo Mechanic for many years working as a photojournalist and use it to ingest (import) from my cards and then choose my selects before importing to Lightroom using color labels and star ratings. If you set up your preferences correctly, Lightroom will recognize those labels. I then go back to Photo Mechanic to filter files with no ratings and trash them. Once set up correctly this all takes very little time.....much, much quicker than using Lightroom to sort through everything. Google Photo Mechanic and check out the many You Tube videos for how to set it up and use it. I think you’ll find it to be a great program once set up. Good luck!
One of the best and fastest programs to view and compare images is Photo Mechanic by Camera Bits. It's used by AP photojournalists who have to view hundreds or thousands of images quickly to decide which ones to submit for publication. The only downside is that it costs a few bucks.
Epson P800. Besides making extraordinary prints, it can be left off for weeks or even a couple of months without having its heads clogged.
Yes, this lens does make a strange sound. But I checked it out with a Fuji tech rep, and was told it was "normal." By the way, it's a fantastic lens and very comparable to the Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 which I used to own before switching to Fuji.
Before dismissing the GFX100 because it doesn't have the usual number of Fuji buttons and knobs, it's important to realize that it already has 15 buttons and knobs that can be customized to whatever functions you prefer. These are essentially "virtual" controls that allow each photographer to set up the camera the way he/she wants, saving some real estate on the body. And if 15 buttons and knobs are not enough, the LCD can be set up with touch screen commands. So I'm not sure why some, including Rockwell, are being critical of the camera's ergonomics because it doesn't have Fuji's usual, physical buttons and knobs. If one looks a little closer, they are there, only a bit different than Fuji shooters may be used to.
I've learned to take Ken Rockwell's reviews with a grain of salt. To suggest this camera is only for those who want to impress others sounds like sour grapes. Some professionals will find the GFX-100 to be the right tool for their needs, and it may give them a competitive edge when it comes to resolution and clarity. And what's wrong with amateurs who have the financial resources who simply enjoy shooting with the next best thing? If it weren't for innovative companies like Fuji, we'd all be shooting with 2mp Kodaks.
Another alternative which does a superb job converting Fuji RAW files to DNGs is Iridient Transformer. It's inexpensive and the customer support is excellent. You can then continue to use LR, even the older versions. And as someone also mentioned, there is a free version of Capture One (Express) for Fuji. While it does a very good job converting Fuji RAW files, its editing features are limited. The full version, Capture One Pro V. 12.1 is now on sale at half price for $109. It is probably the best solution overall for editing and organizing Fuji files.
wham121736 wrote:
Since RAW data is not an image what does Photomax actually use? Is the RAW file converted to a JPG, or TIFf image before manipulation? If so would it not be advantageous to first PP the 3 RAW data files to your desired result before applying HDR?
Good question. When I asked Photomatix if there was an advantage to using RAW files, they told me the files have to be converted first. So I tried converting my RAW files into TIFF files before sending them to Photomatix. I saw absolutely no difference than when I sent the RAW files directly to Photomatix. Since I'm using Photomatix as a LR plugin, I think LR is doing the RAW conversion.
There may be some confusion with how Photomatix works. If you start by choosing multiple exposures of RAW files, you are first given a choice of what format Photomatix will use to blend these images. The choices are: JPEG, PSD, TIFF and DNG. So I don't think Photomatix uses the embedded JPEG in a RAW file. Otherwise, why would it ask which format to use? I once asked Photomatix which format is best, and they recommended TIFF. Since I use Photomatix as a LR plugin, I'm not sure which program does the RAW conversion....LR or Photomatix. I once tried converting my Fuji RAW files in LR to TIFF files before I sent them to Photomatix and no noticed no difference. But when I chose JPEG instead of TIFF in Photomatix, I did notice a difference in quality. TIFF was better. I never tried choosing DNG from the Photomatix program, but this question has peaked my curiosity.
Take a look at the Godox 350 for Nikon. Small, powerful enough for many situations, well built and inexpensive. I replaced my Nikon SB800s with a couple of them plus one larger Godox. Very easy menu system, too.
I also recommend the Epson P800 which I've owned for two years. I exhibit often in galleries, and I am impressed with the quality this printer delivers. I've recently been experimenting with some of Epson's "Legacy" papers and am even more impressed. I've also found that the printing heads do not get clogged if I don't use it for a few weeks. Speaking with an Epson sales rep at the New York Photo Expo this past year, he mentioned that is one of the strong points of the P800. For large panos I've added the roll adaptor which works well. (Although the clips that hold it onto the printer are plastic, and one already broke....so I've had to fabricate a metal one.) Other than that, it's been flawless.
Davethehiker wrote:
I'm glad you find them so easy to use, you must be smart. I'm still struggling! BTW page 2 in my manual is written in Japanese. One page 31 I see that part 15 is the <MODE> Selection Button / Lock button.
Sorry, I was only trying to be helpful. Compared to my older Nikon Speedlights, these Godox units are simply much easier to use. And yes, I meant the item that identifies the MODE button was on the second page of the English section. I bet once you get familiar with your new Godox lights and triggers, you'll find them a pleasure to use. You've made a very smart choice.