I find that distant landscape pictures ALWAYS benefit from dehazing. Then it's worth printing. All that aerial is futsing up the detail and color.

Temporary hold for E.L.. Shapiro.

Gitzo 2750 offset ball head on my rock solid Gitzo Studex 320 antique that will last forever.

Just looking at it from a business stand point where huge corporations run at 1.5-2% profit there's a base principle for government to be able to do the same. There's been a 2% flat tax political movement for decades, but who cares. If that was the law instead of the 43% tax overall, then the government would not be able to spend over half of the federal budget on the war machine and our country's population might receive the necessities of life. Nah, it's not insane to keep feeding the paper dinosaur out of fear, or is it?

Looks like it's gonna be another dog day afternoon, huh?

I shoot a Canon 5D Mark III and a 7D that I had for years before it. The 5D is more camera as I could want, though if I didn't have it I'd be shopping the Mark IV, as it's image is 15% better. FYI, none of my glass is Canon, as they just aren't worth their way too high cost and in many cases lower IQ. I shoot three Tamrons and one Tokina, all 2.8.

Enter MHO, to your question. If I were in your shoes, I'd consider whether or not I would be keeping or replacing my lenses, now or sooner. If replacing them is a preference, then I'd be shopping Tamron 2.8, PERIOD. As for a FF body four would be considered, Canon's 5D III and IV and Nikon's 810 and 850.

Moving from a crop to FF sensor gives a marked difference in performance and IQ. Just ask my lonesome 7D that's used occasionally for extreme reach and not yet for a back up to the 5D Mark III. I love that tool. Whatever you choose I'm certain that moving to full frame will thrill. Best to you and happy shopping.

So, working with what you posted I did two actions in DxO Optics Pro 11 Elite (my go to for PP). One click for "Smart Lighting" and the second click for "ClearView" at 70%. There's no substitute for adept PP. Now, reading the EXIF of this shot ISO 400, f/4.5, 1/400th/s, 18mm (24mm equal), here's my take. I recommend Shoot RAW+JPEG (ETTR), Aperture Priority, ISO 100, f/8, with a 2/3 to full stop+/- three shot bracket. Check the histogram is showing some blown highlights on camera's LCD on at least one frame. Adjust and reshoot as necessary. Post process in DxO Optics Pro 11 Elite. As to composition well, work on that, too. I only answered to what I read you ask. All camera/lens combinations have a sweet spot and that was my suggestion above. Remember, the way to Carnegie Hall is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. There's no substitute for those three things. LOL!!!

My offering

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IMHO, at f/14 your shots are suffering from diffraction limiting. Virtually all lenses shoot the sharpest at f/5.6-f/8 and sometimes f/11, but most are experiencing diffraction limiting by f/11 and your's certainly at f/14. They would have been much sharper at f/8 and the DOF perfect. I long ago ditched shooting beyond f/11 for this very reason. School up.

Easy peasy.
Sigma 120-300mm F2.8 DG OS HSM S Canon mounted on Canon EOS 5D Mark IV

P.S. ...and correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the native 12 bit NEF conversion for Nikon's brainstorm of a RAW and very much unlike 14 bit.

Why do you ask, friend? Doesn't Nikon give a free processing app with every purchase?

The total is posted at the bottom of the ad, as well as the itemized prices. Thanks for you interest, but PM to me, if you please.

... to post here, though not a portrait, but these are pro quality lights for sale on UHH for those wanting the best Made in USA monolights here; http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-535792-1.html

I have eight. Three are for sale. They're still serviceable, though I've not found a need yet. They function flawlessly.