All Manual - Use an old enlarger lens reversed - flat field you can get adapters - SRB here in the UK
So Here is my four pennath! Cameras that take 120/220 Roll film are medium format. You can get roll film backs for large format cameras which can reduce the lugging around of DDS's. So which of the large formats to go for? If you are on foot to the locations then weight and size are important. On foot 5x4" would be my choice. If you can drive everywhere then you might be able to pick up a 10x8" but the cost of film for these is expensive. M<y suggestion would be a 5x4" Monorail rather than a flat bed as the movements will be more useful when including buildings in photographs. I have a Toyo which is good with the following bits: Large Manfrotto tripod with 3 way pan and tilt(Do NOT use a ball head for such a large camera where movements matter)Tin box to keep it all in, Normal and bag bellows, incident and reflected light meter, 90mm wide angle, 150mm standard, 360 long lenses, Lee filters hood/grad filter system(ESSENTIAL),black cloth, Polaroid back, 25 Double dark slides, Magnifying focusing loupe,Spirit levels, gaffa tape(Black) to repair holes in the bellows, Right angle cable release adapter for 90mm lens that is in a recessed panel, Cable releases (both wire and bulb) and probably other bits and pieces that I know are there but cannot think of! Film is Ilford Delta 400 kept in the freezer, as well as colour neg and tranny as required. Hope this helps with your list! Once you have got the hang of the movements you will realise the severe limitations of medern cameras. Even tilt and shift lenses on digital are a compomise.
The simple answer is - DON'T!!
You buy a D800E because it is the best resolution camera full frame - you are wasting a fantastic camera by only using the DX crop. Having said that if you use your existing lens, the resoulution will allow a lot of empty magnification without loosing quality. Still get rid of the DX lens and buy the best full frame lens that you can afford. The quality of the glass must be more important than the quality of the chip.
A Quantum Trio is a brand of American flash gun but any powerful gun will work ok so long as you can hand hold it and set the flash off manually
Get a Benbo - once you have mastered it you will not want anything else. I have a Manfrotto ball head on mine
From what you are saying the neg must be totally transparent or "thin".this means that you are under exposing the neg or under developing it. Does the manufacturers details appear on the processed film? If the answer is yes then you are developing it ok if not then no. Kodak high speed ir film used to dev in D76/hc110 for about 13 mins at 20 C if my memory serves me correctly. The IR transmitting filter will cut about six stops from your exposure which you will have to compensate for. I have no knowledge of Rollei IR film I thought they only made equipment.
Good job, well done. When photographing a crime scene at night I use the same technique only with flash. Tripod with the camera at 400iso 30 sec at f/11 oper shutter and blast off as many full power flashes fom quantum trio as possible. If there is a lot of street lighting then the open time stays the same and the f stop gets smaller about f/22
I am guessing that it could be a flash shadow from the lens hood?
I never meant this to be an answer to Proper IR Imaging - just a way around to get the similar effect without the expense of a conversion.
The best method of all is to use IR sensitive film, an IR Transmitting filter, process the film and then scan to get a digital image.
When it comes to programmes go for lightroom THEN photoshop - But that is only my opinion as a working photographer!
Good advice from our NHS!
the P setting stands for poncy and of no real use to the enthusiast!!!!!!
Set the camera to aperture priority with centre spot metering. You can also set in a certain amount of over exposure with the +exp - no more than one stop as you will get fringing from the highlight into the dark area. Shoot RAW and import int LR where you can then tweek to your hearts content without touching the original file.
Try this.
Landscape image with grass and foliage etc showing green. This will reflect IR and look white - I guess this is the effect you are looking for.
Take the image into photoshop - make a copy and work on that. In channel mixed turn the image into black and white retaining the layers.
Once you have done this make a copy of the green layer and invert it(black for white and white for black) bring this layer to the top of the pile and then you will have the IR effect - you can then mix this with the other layers to get some effects - play to your hearts content!
When I get a minute I will do one and post it.