I assume these images are showing up in the Catalogue?

Missing images should carry an exclamation mark "!" on the picture frame in the Library, left click on that to get to the dialogues.

If there are no ? marks on the folders nor ! marks on the images, LR does not consider them missing.

In Windows I would right click on the image and choose "Show in Explorer" - I don't know the equivalents for a Mac.

There is also the Right click on the image and "Go to Folder in Library"

If nothing else seems to work, or the pictures are not even in the Library, then right click on a folder and choose "Synchronise". On the pop up ensure that all boxes are ticked except for the third box "Remove missing photos from Catalog", this should remain unchecked or greyed out.

IMPORTANT: When you synchronise a folder, especially if you synchronise a parent folder (which is what you will probably need to do) hundreds of system images can be accidently imported. No harm is caused, but no one wants hundreds of icon images clogging up the works. That is the reason for choosing "Show import dialogue before importing" on the pop up, it gives an opportunity to stop these little pics. from coming in.

Obviously I don't know how you store your images, but suppose you store in a folder "Pictures" and all the photos are in subfolders within Pictures. Synchronising on Pictures will check every sub-folder for non-imported images.

One last thing about Synchronise, it can take a few minute to complete, nothing seems to happen but watch the time bar (top left of Library screen), when time bar is finished the import dialogue will open, all photos already in the system will be greyed out. If you have the latest update (abysmal) the bright blue import button will tell you how many newly found photos there are to import. Scroll down to view these, then deselect those unwanted and choose Import.

Have you checked the recycle bin?

The problem with HDR programs is not sending the images but the return of the HDR processed image. I have set my LR to Edit in Photomatix Pro and also Photomatix Essentials, so I can send a sequence of photos to either of those programs quite easily without having to go through the LR Export process.

After processing in HDR I have to import the finished image. Photomatix, and I suspect the Nik HDR have no return function. Save does not work as a return because the file name and suffix has changed.

LR, PSE and Photoshop HDR do the return OK because the software includes code to achieve that.

Most applications can be "called" by LR by configuration in the LR preferences "External Editing" but they are not all capable of doing the return.

On a Nikon, the bracket order is set in the menus - +1,1,-1 or 1,-1,+1 etc. Can you not do the same in a Canon?

The "hand and finger" method as described above works well to signal the beginning or end of a sequence.

In Lightroom, in the Library choose sort by file name, NOT as Capture Time.

In grid view, scroll to the hand and select the previous or next three images, press B on the keyboard to pop them into the Quick Collection.

Now you have the bracketed sequence altogether with nothing else to muddy the waters.

If you download (free) Picture Information Extractor from http://www.picmeta.com/products/picture-information-extractor.htm

an enormous amount of Exif data is available when the camera and lens supports it.

The program opens in the usual way with an inbuilt browser, click an image and the data shows up instantly. This includes focus distance which shows in metres.

The Exifdata tool is a more comprehensive but is complicated to use.

Sometime in the future I will devote a lot of time to really master the pen tool. (I have been saying this since Photoshop 7 in the last century.

You have obviously cracked it - a fine selection.

The long number, 4294967295/1, converts to hexadecimal FFFFFFFF which is infinity in the Exif distance calculations.

For distances over 3 metres, just divide by the 2nd number (as you did), for distances under 3 metres you may get a completely false reading.

If you have macro mode switched on, the numbers may also change.

I read as much as I could from the links given, but stopped when I nodded off . . .

I don't think there is a right or wrong way these days. I have two monitors which sit side by side. One is calibrated to match my printer (as close as possible) the other is calibrated to be close to screens that come straight from the shop.

The great majority of non-professionally owned screens are never calibrated at all. The brightness alone varies from screen to screen, the gamut and colours are all over the place.

I produce images for an organisation that publishes in magazines and on the web, so the requirements are quite different.

Magazine work is exacting; producing an image for someone else to view on a screen is almost random; there are LCD, LED, CRT (a few still survive) and of course the HiFi screens. That is ignoring the all singing and dancing Mac screens etc.

When you enter the jungle, be aware that most viewers are going to see your images differently to you.

With images like yours, there will be a great deal of interest on the "How to". This one in particular is a masterly creation, it does not shout PP, yet is a cleverly crafted work of art.

This is what this section is all about, converting a good photograph into a supreme photograph.

very good, but what post processing is there?

If your friend does not have the software to open a png, tiff or psd file with transparency, she will only see the transparent background as solid white or in some cases, solid black.

Irfanview will show a png file's transparency as black.

If your friend is using Word for her project, there is a way to make text print on the white parts and make it appear as though the file is transparent in places.

It all depends on what she is doing and how she is doing it.

Although I have never seen or heard of this problem before, it does sound as though there is either a preset (maybe hidden) acting on the files.

Can I suggest a couple of tests?

After the reset, edit one of the files (so you can see the edits), close LR, open LR in the Library, select the image and open in Develop. Has it retained the edits or has it reverted to black?

The second test is to take a photo, ensuring you OVER expose and blow out the highlights. Bring that into LR and into the Develop module, is that one still black?

Is there anything at all in the History ?

Bit depth in Photoshop for most things should be 16 bits, but if you are going to use the filter Gallery then it has to be 8 bits.

If you change a 16 bit image to 8 bits (to use the filter gallery) leave it at 8 bits. I can't think of any advantage in changing it back to 16.


Resolution (ppi) does not matter.

$100-$150 based on sold listings (USA) in working condition.

the lowest price I saw for working condition was $50 and the highest was $250 (pristine).

Linda's question was with Lightroom which has a very different interface than PSE10.

Open a new thread with the same question, but please describe the problem in a little more detail. It is possible a layers dilemma rather than brushes.