My CF reader by Crucial is very good (long feed-in channel, good fit), but I have not used others. I do like the idea of a multi-reader, though. For SD and a few other small cards, I have a neat little IOGEAR reader I like.
My CF reader by Crucial is very good (long feed-in channel, good fit), but I have not used others. I do like the idea of a multi-reader, though. For SD and a few other small cards, I have a neat little IOGEAR reader I like.
Yes, one would think so, but out is not the case. I talked to them this morning. No go. Somehow, the USB/mini I have is just not going to fit the 480 tablet's mini port. I may just have to go try the fit wherever I can find an agreeable salesperson. Thanks.
I'm feeling desperate about not finding any source to get a cable for my Wacom Intuos CTH-480 tablet. I see cables listed for all the other tablets, but the 480 seems to need a special one and those shown by 3rd-party suppliers look like ordinary USB mini cables, which would not fit into the small entryway channel of the tablet's port. (I have a couple of USB cables with mini terminals and they are not a fit because the plastic which holds the metal mini-plug is too thick.) Help, please.
The cord (cable) to my Wacom Intuos 480 is lost. Can a regular USB cable be trimmed down (at the small end) in order to fit into the narrower opening to the tablet's port, or do I have to get an "official" Wacom cable? (The plastic channel to access the tablet's port is too narrow to allow entry by the USB cables I have.)
In case there is any clogging, I need to know whether to avoid the purchase. The printer has not been used in about a year, the owner said. (He will run a test print tonight, but I am trying to be prepared.)
Going a little batty here trying to distinguish the Epson inks for an Epson 1430 printer. First, it appears the ones called "Claria" are higher quality (right?), though still designated Epson 79. Second, some Claria listings state both "High Definition" and "High Capacity," some only "High Capacity." Help, please.
I am considering a used Epson 1430 and waiting to hear if it has any clogged heads. For now, I would like to know what remedy there is and at what cost. This would help me decide, just in case.
Yes! Thanks (darn it), though I wish I had been about 2 minutes faster in catching my math gaff (which I did edit).
Go to your library and get at least two books on the basics of photography. (That allows you to refer to a different source when some explanation doesn't quite click.) Keep in mind that exposure is the amount of light (collected by the film or sensor) and it is determined by two things: the brightness (lens opening) and the time (shutter duration, oddly called "speed"). A light meter tells you (as another member has noted) what exposure to set to make the subject it "reads" (measures) average out to be medium gray (thinking of a black-and-white photo print) for the sensitivity of the given film or digital sensor's setting. You can probably see why that would be a logical starting point, but would call for the photographer to recognize when and how much to depart from that middle-of-the-scale average, such as for a snow scene, and so on.
Aperture (lens opening) settings can confuse beginners, since the numbers are a fraction: the lens focal length divided by the diameter of the aperture. Focal length is a constant for a non-zoom lens. You can see that the fraction gets smaller as the diameter increases. If you recall your math, that increasing the diameter by 1.4 will double the area of the lens aperture (circle), since A=pi X (Diam./2)squared, you can see that the f-stop settings 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, etc. are changing the aperture area by doubling or halving, depending on which direction you change--and notice that the shutter speed scale does the same, with a little rounding-off in both cases (1/30, 1/60, 1/125/ 1/250, etc.). Having both controls (f-stop and shutter) scaled so that each "click" on either scale changes the exposure (amount) by the same factor, doubling it or halving it, makes it easier to manage one's choices.
Thanks, Donald. Details are helpful.
Asking for some sharing re. preferences on mounting material for photos. I read the 3M 568 Positionable Mounting Adhesive (a paper roll) becomes permanent, but is not acidic and therefore does not spoil a print (but wouldn't count as "archival" because it is not removable). I'd welcome reports on this and other mounting choices (with information on permanence if known).
I do not see that the question has been answered as to what happens when a CC subscriber stops making the monthly payment. I have CC and think it would continue to operate on my computer without future payments, but that seems odd.
I've now done a bit more looking around and see that, besides camera back screens, there are electronic viewfinders (EVF) in some cases and, as mentioned, good old optical viewfinders (with their parallax problem).