It's twue, it's twue: http://www.businessinsider.com/cameras-can-make-you-look-fat-2016-7

I sometimes shoot without my glasses - I'm far-sighted, so when I do, can't really see what is in focus and what isn't. On my Sony (not sure what you have), I can set the focus area to wide, normal or spot and have generally (but not always) found that spot works best for me- I can see the focus square in the VF and generally lock it on to my subject. If shooting moving subjects (kids, dogs, sports), the better choice is wide - once you lock on, it keeps the subject in focus, where ever it is in the frame. The Sony also has face detection and eye AF which help if you're shooting people / portraits. Suggest you try different combinations on your camera to see what works best for you.

Did you go in? It's actually a pretty cool pub.

Assume you meant this for the admin...

I, personally, ignore all ads - generally, I don't even really see them, because my brain just tunes them out. When I'm looking for something specific, I do an internet search, ask a question here or perhaps see a post that has something interesting (there was a good post a while back on good photography books - I ended up buying a couple based on the recommendations here).

That said, I would never assume that an ad on a site means that it is "approved" by the site administrators. Advertising doesn't work that way. I don't live in the US, and thus don't see US ads - which means that the ads I see are based on an algorithm that probably starts with my location, plus the fact that I'm on a photography website, plus whatever other information the ad server can glean from my profile and what it can combine with other places I've clicked on using the same basic information (generally my email address). Sometimes I get some really off base ads, but in that case I simply assume the advertiser is just doing a massive blast as opposed to spending money on good targeting.

Not clear which brand you have. I can answer for a Sony: when you shift into cropped mode, the image appears larger (as if you were using an ASP-C body), because the camera is only using a portion (cropped) of the sensor; what I see through the VF is the cropped image which fills the VF. By and large, the only real reason to do this is if you have cropped sensor lenses (E-mount in Sony speak) and want to use them on the FF. If you don't go into cropped mode, you're going to get a vignetted image in the VF, as you note.

Was about to respond similarly, but you beat me to it.

Generally, you're only going to notice significant speed differences when your program requires lots of read/write activity to the disk - think video games. However, since you're using these primarily for backup (I think), you're going to be doing most of your work off your internal drives, then saving CHANGES to the external backup drive. Worst case, if you backup a LOT of files, go get a cup of coffee or do the dishes or...

Sorry, after I posted, I noticed that you are going to edit from the external drive (couldn't see the original post when replying). That said, I don't think you're going to notice a lot of difference - typically, if you're editing, you're going to be working on a subset of the images in the drive. Probably more important to speed is the processor and RAM as well as whether you have a USB 3.0 cable, and then less than 10 ft (which is the standard - more than 10 ft and it will slow performance).

This might help: https://www.diffen.com/difference/RAID_0_vs_RAID_1

The question basically boils down to: do you want 2x 3tb mirrored drives or 1x 6tb drive with no redundancy.

If inclined, leave a response to the article... May help a few people...

You might want to scan some of the threads on Nikon SLR lenses at dpreview: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/1030

Another place to check is dxomark (https://www.dxomark.com/category/lens-reviews/), which has a lot of information, but make sure read and understand their methodology.

Key thing is don't just depend on one source; do your research - lenses aren't cheap, but the wrong lens (i.e., one you're not going to use or not be happy with) is going to be a VERY expensive paperweight...

I love that advice.

But I don't, alas, always follow it.

I do try to let logic dictate, in that I don't look for something new until I can't do what I want with what I have. Then I do as much research as I can, and try the lenses I'm looking at. Unfortunately, that sometimes results in spending more I originally intended, but when I do pull the trigger, I know why, and - so far - haven't regretted anything I've bought.

Do your research on the lenses that are being offered, vs. other options. But as tdekany said, it will help a lot to know what you want to shoot. Might be hard to narrow down at first, but think about it and prioritize a bit: birds, sports, landscapes, street photography, portraits, family gatherings, etc. Post your priorities, along with the lens bundle, and ask, again, here - you'll get a lot of opinions, which is good - you'll have some better ideas of what to research, and you'll probably get some links as well from knowledgeable Nikonites (can't help you much on specifics, I'm a Sonyite...).

Exactly the type of question that a marketer should be asking - it helps determine where best to spend promotional $$$.

The value of this type of information to the marketing department likely FAR exceeds the cost of warranty repairs, particularly since warranty periods are determined statistically - no one is going to offer a six year warranty if the MBTF / MTBR (repair) is 5 years. More likely it is 7 years or longer (and yes, manufacturers calculate these statistics before offering warranties).

Search on "<camera model> read write speed" - you'll probably find what you're looking for in the first couple of results.

I guess I'm a little confused by the whole need a receipt thing. I recently bought a Zeiss batis and in the package was a warranty card that said if you want an extra year, register your product on the website. Which I did. They asked for the product details and the SN, and then a bunch of marketing questions - which is really why manufacturers want you to register the product on their website in the first place (as an ex-marketer, I can say that it is very difficult to get good customer input and one of the most productive ways to get it is to offer an incentive, i.e., a longer warranty). And of course, my email - with anti-spamming legislation, the only way a marketer can ensure that they can send stuff by email is to get the customer to "opt-in" (there are some pretty serious negative marketing consequences for spamming if you get reported; doesn't stop the real scammers, who change websites, but any legitimate business pays close attention to this...).

So, someone at Tamron is either really, really stupid, or their marketing and customer services departments are in completely isolated silos (which also means someone high up at Tamron is really, really stupid...). Hard enough to get customers to buy these days; makes no sense to make it harder...

Do it!!!!