Well I took the plunge and just ordered one of Peak Designs aluminum travel tripods. Hoping that I don't end up regretting the purchase since I went with the aluminum over the carbon fiber. I've had a Vanguard tripod for years that I absolutely love, mainly the pan-tilt head on it, but don't carry around much anymore simply because of it's size and weight.

I did a search and haven't seen any new posts about their travel tripods on here lately. So, any new feedback anyone wants to share while I wait for mine?

Oh, and if you didn't know, they have a Black Friday sale going on through mid week next week if there's anything of theirs you might want to pick up.

I have read some of the post about the "photo shop sky replacement" and it seems that a lot of the posters were not really for it.....personally I think it's neat!I do have a question for those who use it........

I have attempted to bring in my own sky's but I haven't been able to. When I click on "import skies" and go to my folders with my sky files it shows that my folders are "empty"........do the sky photos that I want to import have to be in a certain format? Mine have all be edited in ACDee and are JPEG's.

1. Don't care how old you are, VR is made to keep your images steady. I believe you are working up a rationale to purchase the Olympus.
2. Many here make the mistake in buying a mirrorless only to find that their hands don't fit as well because of the mini size of the camera. I strongly suggest you put the Olympus in your hands before you buy.
3. I shoot wildlife, a long lens on a mirrorless camera is not that much different in weight than a FF DSLR.
4. a 4/3 sensor is much smaller than the FF sensor on your D750. But, if your not going to go large on your images, then the 4/3 sensor should work out well for snapshot and cell phone type images.

My Olympus body has a setting I’ve been reading about and trying to grasp. Basically it is an image stacking feature with a twist that currently is unique to Olympus. The twist is that you first make an exposure of your foreground. Then you choose shutter speed and aperture and total time elapsed for subsequent exposures.

The initial image is stored by the program and remains sequestered and unaffected by your next set of images. Only new pixels that are picked up are recorded. When the full set of later exposures is finished the program then stacks them with the original foreground image. Therefore your initial image is not blown out by the subsequent shots.

So I spent five minutes just before dawn to give it a try from our backyard in town to see if it worked as I understood. My thinking was in five minutes of 1 second exposures I should catch a few beginning star trails.

It did as you can see a few trails starting to form. No effort was put into the shot other than try out the program not caring if the foreground was overexposed as that wasn’t my concern. The program will run up to 3 hours. This may prove to be quite useful and much more user friendly for night shot stacks I’ve done in the past with a Nikon body. I am going to try this out the next couple weeks when we are on Hawaii island and at the Kilauea volcano. No doubt some beach shots too. It should work well for milky clouds and water in night shots I expect. So, a whole new adventure to try. Amazing ideas the manufacturers are coming up with. Should be fun to work on.