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Jul 19, 2023 10:20:58   #
Ava'sPapa wrote:
What do you suppose the duct tape is for? To possibly keep some heat out of the cabin?! How great is that...to see a '31 boattail Auburn still out there competing. Good for them!


In the same photo, notice the ‘custom fabricated cup holders’. Gotta have modern conveniences!
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Jul 16, 2023 14:46:51   #
If you're going to continue working with less than 20% of your hard drive available, you will run into the same problem - over and over again - on any app you're using. If you get the windmill, *do not* exit that app until the windmill stops, or you will stop the processing instantly, and corrupt the file permanently. Especially if you are working directly with an original, as you described.

I would recommend getting a program like 'clean my mac', or use Norton to look for dupe files. Here, google is your friend. (Norton, by the way, is not recommended for the new M1/M2 Mac, per the 'genius bar')

But, while some the best solution(s) have been listed here, if you are going to spring for a new Mac M1 or M2, get at least a 1TB hard drive and as much memory as you can afford (or at least 16gig), and a backup hard drive. I'm told a 'spinner' is better for backup than an SSD.
(Search UHH for "burkphoto" for excellent Mac tips)

And, check out CHG_CANONs excellent tutorials on workflow - also here on UHH. While he is a LR power user, I'm sure that most everything he recommends will work in PS.

Good Luck!
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Jul 16, 2023 09:16:11   #
Whoops. Wrong thread!
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Jul 13, 2023 15:20:50   #
We lived on the Cape when the first one opened two towns over, in Yarmouth (YAH-muth for you from off-Cape). At that time it was pretty much a 'remainders' store - similar to what Ocean State Job Lot is now. Since then, CT obviously grew and grew and even started their own import (usually China) business to support themselves, and had some pretty good products for the price.

Really hate to see them go. We'll have to find a new "closet-stuffer" store!
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Jul 13, 2023 15:09:21   #
burkphoto wrote:
Check this out, my white paper on CAMERA scanning.


Excellent work, Bill.
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Jul 12, 2023 11:13:26   #
PAR4DCR wrote:
Any good info???

Don

Excellent, and *very* comprehensive. A whole lot of info you might not use but if you’re interested in protecting your work it is definitely worth the price. Well written and many relatable examples for photographers.

Reznicki and Greenberg are probably the premier experts on the subject.
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Jul 12, 2023 11:02:56   #
burkphoto wrote:
Epson makes two EcoTank printers for photo printing. The ET-8500 prints up to 8.5x11 inches, and the ET-8550 prints up to 13x19 inches. Both are six-color dye ink printers using Claria inks that come in bottles.

The key to printing with these "borderless" printers is to NEVER print borderless. While they WILL print borderless prints, doing so oversprays ink inside the printer, and that ink gets on the rollers and other guide parts, then transfers to subsequent prints. So long as you print on paper larger than the image dimensions, overspray cannot occur, and is not a problem!

The keys to successful home inkjet printing are:

> Print frequently... Make at least one 8x10 photo print per week to keep your heads clog free. Ink dries out within six months of opening it. New, unopened ink lasts about two years in the bottle. So don't buy a home printer if you won't use it!

> Don't expect a home printer to save you money. That is NOT the reason you buy a home printer.

You buy a home printer for these reasons:

> You're a control freak when it comes to color. You bought a decent monitor designed for graphics and photography. You calibrate it monthly with a kit from Datacolor or Calibrite or X-Rite. You use downloadable profiles for all the photo papers you buy. You don't buy third party inks.

> You need something immediately. Inkjets are great when time is a concern.

> You need privacy, because you print sensitive material. (Nudes, surveillance, forensic investigative images, corporate secret projects, etc.)

> You make BIG prints frequently. The economics of making large prints are in favor of inkjets, once you reach 24x36 inch poster size or larger.

> You need to make odd-sized prints for scrapbook projects, presentations, etc.

> You want to print on special surfaces such as art board, canvas, archival rag papers, baryta photo paper, "lab grade" photo paper, etc.

> You want better print longevity than you get with silver halide chromogenic lab prints. The dyes in traditional color photo papers from Kodak, Fujifilm, etc. fade faster than just about any other process except cheap third-party office inkjet printer inks.

All that said, I don't recommend using photo printers for general office correspondence and such. I don't recommend using office printers for photos, either, although you can get "acceptable" results with them if you use OEM ink and OEM photo papers, and play by the rules of good color management. Quality goes out the window when you start to "cheap out" on supplies, or you don't take the time to learn about color management.
Epson makes two EcoTank printers for photo printin... (show quote)


AMEN to burkphoto’s comments.

Two very key points in his response - use a separate ‘office’ printer and a separate ‘photo’ printer, and - don’t expect to save money by printing your own photos.

One other point to remember that Bill makes - do *not* print borderless as it will definitely gum up the works!
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Jun 14, 2023 11:12:59   #
I remember my seeing the Stones the first time - and complaining about having to pay $8!

I'll bet just those stubs would be worth at least 10 times that now.

Of course, I also remember going down to the local pizza shop with my best bud, and for "half a rock" each, get a large 'roni and a couple of cokes…
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Jun 8, 2023 11:06:59   #
Penrose tiles are just so-o-o-o much easier to work with!
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Jun 3, 2023 12:08:55   #
I got stopped for speeding one morning - about 2:45AM - on my way to work, which was driving a truck on a dedicated route. I was on a four-lane, divided road on the outskirts of a city, with a 30MPH speed limit!
Dialog went like this:

LEO - Do you know how fast you were going?
Me - Yessir, 42 MPH
L - 42? Don't you know the speed limit?
M - Yes. It's 30MPH
L - You were going 42? You said you know the speed limit is 30
M - Yessir
L - Where you going this time of night, anyways? (as he is looking at my CDL)
M - Goin' to work, driving for (xxx). Shift starts at 3:15AM
L - That doesn't mean you can speed
M - Officer, if I was going 30, on this road, this time of night, you would've called for back-up, and the two of you
would've come out with your hands on your holsters
L - Don't be a smarta$$. Get outta here, and drive slower
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May 11, 2023 10:24:46   #
I bought a copy, perhaps a year ago. Full suite of Word, Excel, etc.
Legit MS registration, with no problem doing so.
Only issue is that it is not upgradable in the future, but for 30 bucks, its a deal!
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May 5, 2023 14:04:54   #
To me, the images look less out of focus than just generally soft with not much contrast.

If there was no trauma to the lens, I would think the most likely issue was condensation on inner elements, which would cause general softness and lack of contrast as the indicated shot seem to show.

If you cannot see any condensation (or dust) by looking directly through the unmounted lens, from either front or rear, one of the many interior elements may have gotten out of alignment, trauma or not.

If you cannot speak to Nikon Canada, I would send the lens back to the seller you purchased it from.

Good luck

(Edit - Several images show a dust spot on the sensor, upper middle, so dust just might be the culprit)
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Apr 26, 2023 11:13:59   #
I haven't used my 60d in ages, but I do remember that I set the 'center focus point only' and tied the exposure to that point. Also the lens I got with the 'kit' was the early non-USM 18-135. Good at about ƒ8.0 and ƒ11.0 for most focal lengths, wide open was mediocre at 135mm and OK at 18mm. (the 60d *cannot* be 'micro-tuned' for any lens). I have made 20"x30" enlargements that are very good at normal viewing range (not for pixel-peepers, though) by keeping to the ƒ8 to ƒ11 guideline whenever possible. And, of course, a reasonable shutter speed, which for me was 125th second or higher.

Because of vision issues (and probably more than a little GAS) I knew I was going to go FF, so after purchasing the 10-22mm lens [exceptional!] I started buying "L" series lenses, and still use them with the 60d when I dust it off.

You have a good camera - state of the art, high-end consumer grade (versus the Rebel series) 18mp -13 years ago in 2010 when introduced. Stay with the ƒ8 to ƒ11, carefully focus with one point (not the whole nine), follow CHG_CANON's advice, and you should get well-focused shots.

(edit: I would also see if you could get a copy of David Busch's 60d book if you don't already have one)
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Apr 23, 2023 15:45:55   #
JimGray wrote:
All we can know about what someone thinks on this list is what they write. Are you saying the people who claim they own a software package don't actually think they own it?


We’re getting away from the OP’s original comment, but …

We *have* had posters ask “where can I buy a copy of LR xxx (or PS xxx)”, usually meaning an older “owned” version, pre-subscription.
And, we *have* had posters comment “I bought a copy of PS xxx on EBay, it doesn’t work (or Adobe won’t recognize the serial number and they can’t install it), and the seller said NO REFUNDS!”

So, there *are* folks, even on our erudite UHH forum, who do think they own software they ‘buy’, or since they bought the CD, they have the right to sell it.
Tain’t so.
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Apr 22, 2023 10:31:29   #
As many have mentioned: open a chat with Adobe. On their site - nobody else’s.
Do NOT just google ‘adobe problem’, or whatever you did, you will get a scammer every time. Adobe is very helpful - they want to keep your business.

And, to the poster who said ‘every year or two I paid $150 [or so] to update’ - at $10/month, you have frequent updates, along with tutorials - so you are basically paying the same price as before, just getting newer and latest software more often.
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