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Jun 27, 2023 19:45:17   #
PHRubin wrote:
????? I'm using the same flash (550EX) I used on my XT, T2i, and then 80D. It still has all the functionality it always had.

As far as the R7 goes, the only thing I don't like is that the viewfinder turns off after a minute or so and if you are waiting for the perfect moment to shoot, you have to re-touch the focus/shoot button to get it back on. They do this because unlike on a DSLR, the viewfinder uses batteries. Otherwise, it is a great camera.


PHR, that is the one thing I most dislike in my Hasselblad H2 camera. It cuts off after only a few seconds! That should be something we can control, but apparently not (unless somebody can say how). You can't compose a picture without constantly touching the shutter button.
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Jun 20, 2023 08:50:21   #
Picture Taker wrote:
"USER ID" Not necessarily true I shoot HSR 99% of the time and hand hold. Recently shot swans with a 400mm and a 2X extender (800mm) hand held. Part of my success is I process in PHOTOMATIX.


400mm sounds like battleship artillery--is that lawful for swans?
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Jun 19, 2023 14:06:58   #
btbg wrote:
If you typically shoot at shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or higher then you probably don't need a tripod for most landscape work. If on the other hand you take a lot of shots at 1 second or longer exposure then you definitely still need a tripod.

The same has always been true. There are plenty of situations where a tripod is not necessary, but there are many situations where you can't get the photo without one. So, the answer all depends on your shooting style and subject matter.

I would say that since you indicate that you are going to shoot some seascapes I would recommend that you take both a tripod and some neutral density filters. You will find that shooting waves at 1/1000s of a second and shooting waves at 1/4 of a second or slower gives you very different images.

Both types of shooting are valid, and in point of fact the new cameras and lenses have actually given people the opportunity to take longer exposures with less trial and error as what you see in the viewfinder is generally what you get. So, I find that I am taking more long exposure shots and using my tripod more than I did in the past, not the other way around.
If you typically shoot at shutter speeds of 1/60th... (show quote)


btbg,
Do you think that the pictures of what you want are already limited by what equipment you have? For instance, I would not even think of shooting fast action in dim light with a very long lens, hand-held, but if I had a tripod and the time allowed it, I would think up pictures I could take with that.

The rank amateur or beginner might think a normal lens can get good pictures of birds or football players at night, or a performer on a stage, while the experienced photographer, carrying a simple box camera, will just use it for what it can do.

The tripod fits into that way of thinking. If you go out wanting to shoot anything that comes along, you may have to take all the equipment you own, even if you rarely need it. But normally, if we are looking for views in the city or in the country, we know what to take. Some photo styles may be called the snapshot style, and an old Kodak Brownie or a good cell phone is just right. The tripod is for a) greater options regarding light and motion, and b) greater demands regarding resolution and depth of field. But we have to limit our aspirations to what is possible.
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Jun 19, 2023 11:39:45   #
gwilliams6 wrote:


E.L., that covers it well. It occurred to me when reading your account that a tripod should have wheels. Then you can load all your gear on it and wheel it around like luggage. It could look something like a suitcase with wheels, but with an upright post (as handle) for the camera mount. Your AK-47s could mount on the sides for quick action during urban chase scenes, so you could shoot people either way.

Note: Why did it take thousands of years to think up putting wheels on luggage? Because hired help was so cheap--then became expensive. (Or because poor people got credit cards and traveled.)

Wheels like a small bicycle could roll up and down stairs or rocky places. The tires could retract--but why? They could absorb the trembling of the ground or pavement from any heavy traffic, trains, elephants, etc.
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Jun 19, 2023 11:06:06   #
Philo, speed is sometimes a critical factor in everyday life, including photography--but failure to take our time may be the biggest threat to doing our best. When I see a fine print, I can't see the time it took (shooting and then printing), but when a picture is not so fine, I can definitely see where more time would have helped. Time itself can be considered an important tool.

I truly appreciate the portrait skill to make many portraits in an hour, but even so, the mass-produced methods (while giving good, reliable product) is most criticized for "all look the same"--while being praised for the very same thing. I also appreciate the journalist skill and the action-skill to grab shots at the decisive moment. But by and large, landscapes and architectural views are not going anywhere, so we can take as much time with it as we need. One reason the old large format photographers could produce fine art (apart from being good) was that the art form demanded slow, careful work. Seeing things upside down and sideways, and using a magnifier to examine details, made people be careful and double-check things. Time is a challenge for all good things, even life itself. An artistic life can be a race where the slowest one wins.
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Jun 18, 2023 11:55:54   #
jerryc41 wrote:
Necessary? No. Preferable? Yes. The camera is totally steady, and the photographer has set his ideal composition. He can even use a shutter delay, although that's probably a non-issue with a mirrorless.


Jerry, I thought shutter delay was so you can run around and get in the picture yourself.
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Jun 18, 2023 11:53:25   #
jerryc41 wrote:
One nice thing about SurePost is that it's delivered early.


True for me--I am on the first street of a route. If the driver is out, somebody delivers my route after doing their own.
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Jun 18, 2023 11:46:40   #
Mac wrote:
With IBIS are tripods still necessary? Especially when using a smaller, lighter lens like a prime? I understand that with some types of photography (and lenses) tripods are needed, but has IBIS made them redundant in others?


Yes--many landscapes need no tripod, but some do. I don't have any image stabilization cameras, but I now have some lenses that have it (Canon), and my knowledge of the topic is limited to my personal use and experience. I have no clue about the physics or electronic designs.

1. Even IBIS has limits for optimal results--just as "sharpening tools" in post-processing do. IBIS certainly assures "getting a picture" for more landscape scenarios.
2. IBIS would not have helped in shooting "Moonrise Over Hernandez," even with modern equipment.
3. Raising ISO or opening up the aperture to accommodate the shutter even with IBIS will limit the options for the photo. Landscapes often want both smaller apertures and lower ISO. Tripods give more options for both. Clearly, a sunny day with nothing very close in the picture can shoot at handheld speeds with or without IBIS, using any aperture, any speed, and any ISO desired, with longer lenses (up to a point...).
4. Desired blur (such as flowing water) might give unwanted blur elsewhere in the photo, without tripod.
5. When sharpness is wanted, a still camera will always be sharper than a moving one, so acceptable results are a matter of choice (both for resolution and for ISO noise). Acceptable sharpness depends both on your taste or purpose and on the degree of enlargement anticipated. Even IBIS will show blur or noise if you enlarge it enough, given your choice of aperture and ISO (I think?) The standards for one project may be much lower than one for National Geographic.
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Jun 18, 2023 11:08:13   #
bdk wrote:
if you stay home and wait, that means for some reason it wont be here for another extra day. Its some type of law I think. at least thats always what happens to me.
I'll be interested in hearing how you like it.


That's "the watched kettle never boils," but of course it only referred to analog kettles.

I have noticed that Amazon shipments with UPS often use Sure-Post now. That means they deliver to the local Post Office for delivery, and the tracking is a day off (late).
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May 7, 2023 11:49:20   #
I understand people would like it brighter, but it is obviously a night game, and it should look like it--and the white lines on the ground are pure white but have good detail. The skin that shows is also the right brightness level, for me, but of course you can lighten it up just a bit if you want to. I think you are talking about the ground when you speak of noise--the players are crisp and clear. The high ISO will lose something somewhere, and the ground is the best place for it. (I grunt if I must go above ISO 200--but action shows no mercy.)

For publication no doubt they will want less contrast, but the noise level would not be a problem, would it? Noise is more noticeable with high contrast, yes? In printing, the people are the main event, and this looks printable to me, with a little less contrast. I like to see rich, deep blacks and a bit of texture in snow white highlights. The middle can be tweaked.
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Mar 23, 2023 17:44:50   #
BebuLamar wrote:
But the site isn't any good after Amazon took over. It used to have a lot of information not any more.


Was any company ever improved by being absorbed into a conglomerate? Resistance is futile; you will be assimilated. --The Borg

OK, Sony bought Columbia pictures and others, and have done well with them (but they bought Columbia from Coca-Cola, so...) I wonder why Amazon even bought DP Review.

Remember how brilliant Buster Keaton was until MGM put him under contract? He was never much good again until Lucy hired him to write for "I Love Lucy." (She was exactly his type of clown--perfect.)
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Jan 27, 2023 21:21:25   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Don't know who or what the reply is, but do you need to check the setting for releasing the shutter with no lens detected?


No, I was using Canon EF w/adapter to R--fully compatible. Don't know where I went wrong but I will return to the owners manual later.
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Jan 27, 2023 20:29:36   #
Well, nothing seemed to work earlier (even shooting a picture), but this time that worked. (I switched to AV and took a picture normally.))
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Jan 27, 2023 11:45:11   #
Well, of course we can just compose and focus wide open, then stop down to shoot... if the subject holds still.

I found the peaking functions but have not found out how to get out of the data screens and go to normal viewing... The manual said how to get in--but not how to get out. Just turning the camera off and on did not clear it. I will figure it out later.
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Jan 26, 2023 19:17:08   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
There are two tools of all mirrorless and one of IBIS-enabled models that make legacy MF lenses 'better' on digital cameras.

1, The focus peeking mentioned above where you can zoom the EVF to the 10x details and very precisely focus the image / lens. Different models enable this feature differently. On my Sony, I can reassign a menu option to an external button. Native mirrorless lenses and certain mount adapters have a 'control ring' that can be programmed to any of several options, including a twist that 'pops' the EVF to that 10x zoom.

2, Once the lens is precisely focused, one can also adjust the EVF display to show the plane of focus as a shimmering color in the display. I've found that shimmer (I use red, yellow and white are other options) is not very precise alone. But, if you've focused precisely at 10x, you can rely on the relative movement of the shimmer as you adjust the focus plane slightly forward or back.

3, And finally, bodies that provide stabilization support to these legacy lenses are a great enabler of better overall results. The only limit of MF lenses on these IBIS models is you have manually set / configure the lens focal length as the camera can't detect this value automagically.

Maybe a 4 are the exposure mode options. I shoot adapted MF lenses on mirrorless in shutter priority mode with AUTO ISO. The camera is configured to release the shutter with no lens attached / detected. It just meters the light as hitting the sensor at whatever manually set aperture I'm using on the lens. So, I can adjust the shutterspeed to freeze the subject and / or the slowest speed I can control with the IBIS assist. Having control of the aperture too, this is like Manual mode with AUTO ISO, where I can also apply EC to how the meter brightens the image.
There are two tools of all mirrorless and one of I... (show quote)


Thanks--you led me to those things in the long online manual. I tried a Pentax lens on the Canon R, shutter priority. It is pretty easy to focus by sight for general scenes. I will have to look further about the shimmering-focus. Sounds like a more vivid version of the old bristling donut ring in the film SLR split image circle. I did not see a way to focus while stopped down (so far).

However, I expect to work first with these lenses that are compatible by design: Canon RF 16mm f2.8, Canon EF L 17-40mm f4, RF 85mm f2 Macro, and EF L 100-400mm. That should keep me busy for a while.
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