I like #1 over #2, but it's really a matter of projecting a formal, classy image, or more relaxed informal style of #2. If wildlife photography is your ONLY genre #3 is good too, but that locks you into that genre. Whichever one you decide, make several versions - dark/black, transparent and light/white backgrounds, especially if you haven't made a website yet. Overall my vote is for #1.

Quick post edit - I like the script in #2 better, but the camera in #1 better. Maybe sort of combine the two styles.

Wow! Nice work! Next time try using a flat bed scanner, much better than photographing a photograph. Years ago we found an old sepia toned portrait of my mom when she was very young around 19 or 20 (circa 1940s). The only blemish was a huge crease diagonally across her face. I scanned it in at 600 dpi with a flat bed scanner and made a TIF output in addition to JPG. I was able to edit the JPG version with Paint Shop Pro which was before I learned GIMP (may not have been around yet late 1990s). With a bit of patience I was able to erase the crease by blending it with the surrounding pixels (either background which was a studio backdrop, or flesh tones of the face). When I was done with it after several hours, it looked fantastic and I made framed 8x10 prints for the family as holiday presents. If I find the files I will post them here - it's somewhere deep in my archives from the 90s.

There's a lot of truth to what you say. I was interested in the new Tamron 150-500 lens for the Z mount but quite a few reviews on B&H and elsewhere indicated a fit problem with the Z mount (too loose!). Otherwise it seems like a fine lens, but because of that issue I will avoid buying that lens.

Thanks! Also the PBS channel ALL ARTS has photography shows too....

https://www.allarts.org/programs/a-photographers-view-of-iceland/
https://www.allarts.org/programs/colors-of-the-island/
https://www.allarts.org/programs/lucy-worsleys-royal-photo-album/
https://www.allarts.org/programs/out-of-exile-the-photography-of-fred-stein/
and maybe some others...

I used the Tamron 90/2.8 next gen lens with the D7200 and was very happy with it, although much good to be said about the Nikkor 105 too. Either one makes a great portrait or short tele lens too.

This has been extensively studied, but ISO on a digital camera is nothing more than applied amplification. Whatever exposure EV level you're at, noise is magnified along with the signal, but of course in bright lighting the noise is overshadowed by the strong signal level. In dimmer lighting, lower EV levels, there is not much signal compared to bright lighting, so noise is more apparent. Longer exposure when all else is equal will also increase noise. Increased temperature will also increase noise level - which becomes noticeable when shooting video for extended times. Sensor heating produces lots of noise. It's important to note that noise is from the electronics - mainly the sensor and supporting processors.

I've heard ABC - Adorama, B&H and Calumet (I think) are the most trustworthy. But, be aware that B&H and I think Adorama sell grey market as an optional choice, but they will indicate those products as "international model" or "international warranty" - best to call if you're not sure. An unusually low price is the usual indicator for grey market, which is a term rarely used by retailers - look for "international model" or something similar in the description. CALL IF YOU ARE NOT SURE.

The hottest tool of 2024 will be the Ron Popeil mirrorless conversion kit for only $19.95 plus S&H. But wait! If you order in the next 30 minutes, you will get not one, but two conversion kits for only $19.95 with free shipping! Why spend thousands of dollars on overpriced mirrorless cameras when you can have mirrorless for a lot less!

What can be easier to use than the patented Ron Popeil mirrorless converter tool? It's as easy as 1-2-3:
1. With the lens removed, lift the mirror into position.
2. Take the tool and firmly grip the mirror between the padded plier jaws.
3. Yank it out as hard and quickly as you can.

Congratulations! You have now joined the mirrorless club! Just shoot in live view and stop looking through tiny peep holes. Be sure to discard the plier and the mirror as it is licensed for one time use only! We're watching you!

Order now! Call 1-800-xxx-xxxx our operators are standing by! Supplies are limited and this special deal can end at ANY TIME! HURRY!

Seriously though, the only aspect of DSLRs I liked was the longer battery life, and the OVF in BRIGHT lighting. Other than that, mirrorless is the way to go, but keep in mind many are still using the DSLR very well in 2024 and beyond.

I had the D7200, close in specs to the D7100. Loved that camera, IQ was fantastic for a crop sensor. Took many great pics with it, but sold it to raise $$$ temporarily, then migrated to mirrorless (Z6ii/Z7ii). Would have kept it though if I didn't need a short term cash infusion. The D7100/7200 are well built DSLRs! Buffer is not as deep on the 7100 as is on the newer 7200.Enjoy!

Impressive! Advanced AI eh? Sounds like Skynet will be activated when all the R1s link together globally and start WWIII!

Not a question (?) - re-read it, and the thread it's responding to, with a slight pinch of humor in your funny bone.

That would be one hell of a strobe or LED light to reach the moon.

I think it's great for some Nikon photographers shooting action or requiring flash sync at any speed.For me personally it would be of limited or no benefit. It's largely a niche camera IMO, but they do need to keep pace with Sony at the high end.

I don't own a Zf, but read a lot of reviews on it, studied the specs, etc. since I considered it to replace my Z6ii.

It has largely received a lot of raves, with a few caveats.

It's basically a 24mp Z8, in a retro body, with slower memory cards (I don't care for the micro SD slot, but of course keeping the size down). It has the same expeed7 processor as in the Z8/9. AF performance is about on par with the Z8/9. The IBIS module doesn't lock down when camera is off - really don't like the idea of the IBIS module jostling around during transit. It makes a great stylish travel or street camera. With a vintage lens attached, people might think you are shooting with film. I've decided to wait for the Z6iii.

It really depends brightness of the subject (sunny, cloudy, dawn, dusk,indoor, nightlife), lens used, desired or needed DoF, and whether you have IBIS or lens stabilization. If the subject or scene is not moving, your movement or camera shake is the other factor. If the camera is on a stable tripod, then there really is no lower limit, except long exposures introduce more noise (may need to turn on long exposure NR).

Constraints -

ISO - lower is better, lowest possible ISO for shutter/f/EV combo.

f - vary depending on DoF needed and lighting, but wide open and small apertures f/16+ usually result in slightly lower IQ. Most lenses perform best in the "midrange" f/ 5.6-11

Shutter - handheld, generally 1/focal length or faster, but can go lower 2-6 stops depending on lens/IBIS stabilization setting. So if you're shooting with a 100mm lens, you want 1/100 or faster, with a 300mm lens 1/300 or faster, but if you have 3 stops of IS, you can go as low as 1/15 or 1/30 in the examples above. But again, on a stable tripod there really is no lower limit on a static subject.

Sometimes creative effects such as a blurred waterfall require a much slower, multi-second shutter speed, on a tripod. If you don't have a tripod, take several shots at higher shutter, and stack them to blur - you need about a dozen or more shots to blend, for example. Or, if you're shooting a helicopter for example, you don't want static rotor blades and prefer to show some blade motion, so only certain slower speeds will work for you (such as 1/60), subject to other constraints above.