jerryc41 wrote:
I don't like that, either because you are limited to where and how you can use it. I wind up with cards that have just a couple of dollars left on them - hard to use.
I'm sure Amex and Visa like this because they probably collect the regular fee from the merchant, and they keep all those balances that people leave on the cards.
jerry,
Most point-of-sale systems will take multiple $ forms until total value of sale is reached.
Ken
IsoBob wrote:
Why are some manufacturers issuing American Express Cards instead of cash for their rebates. You can't redeem them for cash you must use them for other purchases. I wanted to buy a new lens that has a $200 rebate. The only wayI could swing this deal was to use rebate money toward purchase. What is up with this. Is there away around this that I can't see? Any and all help appreciated.
Bob
Nope ! You will find just about all companies are issuing rebates in card form, much cheaper than generating paper. I don't think you will have any luck getting a check. I end up using them for groceries to free up cash !
Ken
I also have not had any problem with an Epson R800 for 5 yrs and then my current R1900 for the last 4 yrs. I print a nozzle check weekly if I have not printed in that period of time.
I use an in-expensive Brother B/W laserjet for all not photo printing. I get around 2,500 pages per toner and it has been going for almost 10 yrs!
northsidejoe wrote:
Just playing around taking a break and playing on the pc thanks for looking saying hello from Pittsburgh four photos.
Hi joe,
Sure has changed some since I grew up in the 40's, 50's & 60's on the southside !
Ken
DaveGrScr wrote:
I have a technical question about my new 70-200 f4 IS USM. I currently have a T1i and really like the cropped factor. Am seriously considering getting a 7D but am waiting to see what Canon will do next in that series.
Anyway, my Q? - on the side of the L is a switch for 1.2m to inf or 3m to inf. I did read the book (sorta) which says it focuses faster on the 3m setting if focusing more than 10' away. No problem there. OK, i am getting there. On my cropped body with the switch in the 1.2m setting (4ft), when i focus on something at 4ft, it is very soft. The camera will take the picture but it is definitely soft. There is no real focus point that is sharp. I know that this lens is not a macro lens and i do not intend to use it that way. However, since the L is designed primarily for full frame sensors, is the 1.2m wrong for the cropped sensors? This may be weird but when i back up to 6ft or so, the focus becomes tack sharp.
I have a technical question about my new 70-200 f4... (
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Dave, I assume you are aware the MFD (min focus distance)for this lens is 3.9'. If you will be using it this close, just add a 12mm extension tube. I have the 70-200f2.8 and used to use tubes for butterflies until I got the 100f2.8 macro lens.
Ken
Girl with A Canon wrote:
I have a question for those that use Nik software. I have tried to down load it and keep getting that I need to change my search engine to Google. I use Bing and I am happy with that and do not want to change. So how can I get the Silver Efex Pro without changing my search engine??
Girl, just download Google, but don't set it as DEFAULT. After you've downloaded NIK, you could delete it, or just let it alone. As long as you don't set Google as your default engine, it won't even open again !
Ken
Papa j wrote:
Thanks Ken for you r response I do need some extensive reading. I think i understand the concept of LR as not the holder of the file i think my confusion is as to when saving it on my hard drive or external hard drive where do i save it to . my confusion is should i create an hard drive folder or does LR do that automatically if i make changes in LR. I hope Im not confusing Im an old man with nothing to do who love to photograph what I see cause i certainly cound not draw it
joe
There is no "save button". If you want a new file incorporating the changes, then "export" them to a folder within the folder with the originals or somewhere else, then delete the originals while in LR. The whole concept behind non-destructive editing is to retain the "original" file. If I wanted to put stuff on the web, or email, I select the RAW files, batch "export"them into a folder called "jpegs" (resize them if necessary) within the original folder. After I have sent them or published them to my SmugMug account, I just delete that "jpeg" folder in LR. Maybe next year I decide to edit the file differently, I still have the original !
I also had to deal with the "learning curve" when I decided use LR.
Ken
Papa j wrote:
OI am new to the cc LR . I recently imported 6000 recent photos to LR from several hard drive locations.
1/ I went through each photo in. LR deleted or assigned the keepers to a folder
2/ In each folder I then PP the photos I wanted to keep
3/ When I wanted to save them to the same folder I created I get confused. I know when I move the photo in LR I also move it on my hard drive but when I am saving it where am I saviving it .
I have 40,000 additional photos to add and I don't think I am there yet. I am retired and have time but I'm thinking not enough. Please give some direction to a fix or a method. I have watched YouTube , BH, Morganti, tony n
And I am presently working on a Mac Pro and an buying a Mac desk top because my back hurts do I have to get a new monthly for the second computer
Have mercy
Joe
OI am new to the cc LR . I recently imported 6000 ... (
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Joe, LR uses non-destructive editing ! It never makes changes to the original, rather it records all those keystrokes you used to a "side-car" file with type ".XML" which has the exact same <filename>.xml and resides in the same folder usually right next to original file where ever it is. Remember, LR catalog is just a database and when you import pix, it does not actually move the pix to the catalog. It simply stores a pointer to where the pix resides. Now you always see the changes while you're in LR and if you print from LR, you will also have the changes. You don't see the <filename>.XML while you are in LR. If you use your WINDOWS EXPLORER (or Mac equiv) to look in the folder where you made some changes, you will see an .XML file for every pix you edited. If you open an edited pix outside of LR, you WILL NOT SEE THE CHANGES. You will have to "EXPORT" the pix if you want all the changes.
You need to do some reading on LR ! There are tons of written help and videos from Adobe.
Ken
johneccles wrote:
I made a post yesterday which mentioned how to remove or reduce haze from photographs. As it was not the main subject of the post I will attach a couple of photographs with some "Haze" for UHH members to make suggestions of how to deal with it.
john,
you might look into DXO OpticsPro 10. The "CLEARVIEW" algorithm is amazing.
ken
wjames wrote:
i have read the manual for my Nikon 5100 and still cant figure out the manual control. when i choose auto and point to a grey card i get an exposure reading .(say 125 @5.6)_ i feel it is not enough depth of sharpness for what i want , so i switch to manual and take a reading and get a completely different set of exposures...if i accept the new readings and just shoot, the pix comes out black or at least underexposed. If i try to get a new reading with manual setting nothing changes.
can anyone explain to me in a way i can understand how manual is supposed to work when you want to take a light reading.
thankyou
wjames
i have read the manual for my Nikon 5100 and still... (
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james,
it sounds like you don't understand the basic exposure triangle (aperture setting, shutter speed, & ISO (sensitivity) setting. You're not going to really understand just from suggestions on forums. I suggest you get "UNDERSTANDING EXPOSURE" by Bryan Peterson. I bought a hard copy over 5 yrs ago and it flushed all my confusion about exposure out of my head ! and I didn't have to read the whole book before things fell into place.
you're statement, " i feel it is not enough depth of sharpness for what i want", may be referring to DOF (depth of field) which you will understand before you get half way thru.
You can find it on Amazon and other bookstores. Another book of his, "UNDERSTANDING FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY" is an absolute necessity to grasp on / off camera flash. There are many other books dealing with exposure, but after reading Bryan's book, I couldn't see anyone explaining it any better, so I've stayed with his products.
Ken
Jack68 wrote:
Hi All,
I am going to take the plunge and start using Lightroom, but I am having difficulty to find how to start a new catalogue. I know that there are a lot of members using Lightroom, I'll appreciate any help.
Thanks.
Jack,
Do you understand basic concept of LR's catalog ? I had a hard time comprehending it when I switched from PhotoShop Elements organizer which had the actual pix files . I would suggest you go to toolbar "HELP" to get to Adobe online learning center for free help. search "new catalog" and it will give you instructions. LR's catalog is just a database of WHERE YOUR PICTURES ARE LOCATED ON YOUR COMPUTER. It is also recommended you maintain ONE catalog for all files. For example, I had all my pix in the folder "photoshop pix" on a second drive (not the sys C: drive) with a structure of subfolders that fit my requirements.
Open LR, goto toolbar "file", "new catalog", decide on a catalog name & where to put it (suggest putting it in main folder , "photoshoppix" in my case) .
I caution you again ! READ, READ before you get really confused. Don't worry about messing up, you can delete any "catalog" without messing up your pix files because the catalog is just a database file that keeps track of where all your pix are !
Ken
sawdust3 wrote:
Did pictures of a car show. all well except pictures of white cars. They come out too white, can't even see much detail on them. Was using same settings for all other cars. tried all could think of nothing better. Any help please would be appreciated. Really bright sunny day also.Thanks Dennis
Sawdust3,
Not sure what type metering you're set on, or if you accidently have Exposure Compensation set to greater than 0, or if you have ISO set higher than 100. If you post another thread and click on (STORE ORIGINAL) so we can see the exif data, might be able to see why. By the way, these look to be very over-exposed. Easy salvaged by some post processing if the whites are not blown out. Dynamic range (from black to white ) is a problem on brite sun at midday !
ken
Papa j wrote:
I have read recommendations for his book on exposure many times on the hog. I recently read it and was very impressed. The book was very helpful in better understanding exposure and reasons why to use certain settings. Are any of his other books recommended. I am interested in any books that are particularly helpful with photography
Thanks
Joe
If you are mystified about flash techniques, his book UNDERSTANDING FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY is one to get !
Ken
I believe that would be a low-impedance XLR output. Goto Amazon and search xlr cables. I think most of the cables will convert the Lo-Z signal to useable high impedance. REad some of the ratings and you will probably find just what you need. Also do you need mono or stereo, some cables will split signal into L & R
Ken